How would you start cutting this pattern

[meflick]

I often see patterns that i like but wonder how the best way to cut parts of it may be. Stars for example or fine intricate, cursive lettering for another. So I have decided to run some of these questions by all the experts here in the Village and get some insight, helpful information for all of us newer scrollers. Similar to that provided last year when we discussed compound cuts.

I’ve made no secret that I am somewhat intimidated in cutting lettering. Especially lettering that is thin and intricate. A good example is the word art patterns that Keith Fenton does and makes available for sale on Sheila Landry’s site. I love so many of them but I am intimidated by them since they are often thin lettering, different fonts, etc. a good example right now is the free one they are offering right now “Home for the Holidays.” I have had it and some of their other patterns printed out but just. It sure enough to attempt one yet. Do you use thin wood and stack cut, what if you only want one not several because you don’t sell, just do one in thicker wood? What blade, is something like this where you would be better to use a spiral blade? Etc. I know to start in the middle, go slow, etc. but I am just not sure the best way to approach these types of patterns with the thin, delicate, cursive fonts.

So, anyone want to give some tips, recommendations, helpful knowledge? Any insight anyone can provide is appreciated.

Here is link to the free pattern I am referencing: http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/free-pattern and the picture of it captured from there so you guys and gals can see what I am referring to.

 

Edited to Add: Thanks to everyone who offered, help, advice, tips, information and encouragement.  You can see my cuttings in my gallery or in this thread here: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32369-home-for-the-holidays/

 

Edited January 23, 2019 by meflick
To add Link to my thread showing where I did cut this out!

[scrollerpete]

I would use at least 1/4” to 1/2” thick hard wood, like Cherry, oak, maple, walnut any type of hard wood with real high density fibre so they do not break easy. As far as blades FD or Pegas # 3 reverse so not much sanding on the back. I would start cutting the hollies first top and bottom and then the letters. If you have some problem staying on the lines, slow down the speed of the saw a little and most important DO NOT FORCE THE BLADE let it do the work. I hope this help and don’t be intimidated, you can always use part of the pattern on a piece of scrap wood. Go for it, you will have it mastered before long.

[Foxfold]

Not that I'm an expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I do love my 'letters'.  I personally would use ¼" ply which I have access to a lot of or 1/8th wood perhaps and I use a No.3  Reverse blade. This one had quite 'thin' letters and that's how I did it. I've never done a 'stack' cut so can't comment on that. xx

 

Edited January 12, 2019 by Foxfold

[Rob]

I'm not an expert by any means but I would start with the "For The" in the centre just in case I stuffed up so as not to waste too much timber.  But try and keep the scrap and tape it back in place to protect the lettering while cutting the rest of the plaque.  I would also beef up some of the bridges such as the bottom of the "d" and "a"  by cutting a little short of the pattern or adding another bridge at the top of the letter.  

Good luck,

Rob

[kmmcrafts]

I did these from Sheila Landy pattern sets from 1/8" BB ply.. cut them with a #3 Pegas MG blade.. Some of them I cut stacks of 4 while others I did only two.. I almost always stack at least two.. but have used single 1/8" before as well.. and on single ones I use a #1 blade.. and it's about the only time I ever take my saw speed down to around 1/2 way on the dial..  I personally do not like the look of the signs when  made from thicker wood.. so I'd stack at least 2 of them.. and if they both turn out I'm sure someone would like one as a gift someday, LOL ..

Anyway.. spiral blades work well too for them.. if I do use spirals I use a 2/0 FD New spiral.. some of these I did cut with spirals or at least opened up the lettering where it is quite a narrow area.. 

These are a bit of a challenge in some areas.. but I think you'd do fine just slowing the saw down to a more comfortable speed.. for someone like you that may be intimidated.. on the particular pattern you're speaking of.. I'd cut from 1/4 ( if you like the look okay in 1/4  otherwise stack cut it) and then I'd probably use a spiral for the words "For The" in the cutting IF you're comfortable with spirals.. if not.. then just use the same blade.. on a side note.. when I get a area that I'm concerned with if my saw is aggressive... or too fast for me I'll cut with the new blade a bit on some of the other bigger areas that I'm more comfy doing to sort of dull a new blade a bit before going to the intricate stuff.. sometimes that helps take the fast cutting sharp blade and slow it a bit.. but you also don't want to cut it with a real dull blade either.. I do this quite often to make that real sharp aggressive blade down to a little less aggressivenes....

  Take it slow.. they really aren't too bad as long as you just take your time with it.. I'd use a #1 or #3 blade for the rest of the lettering..   

Edited January 12, 2019 by kmmcrafts

[jerry1939]

If I only want one of a delicate pattern, I always stack above a piece of inexpensive luan sacrifice board.  Normally use 1/8" BB & FDUR #3 or 5.
Start with delicate parts first, as mentioned above.

jerry 

[WayneMahler]

I normally cut mine from 1/2" red oak.  I use a #3 UR blade. Something like this I would probably start in the middle and work my way out. As you can read from the other statement we have a different approach to our work. Just take your time and let the blade do the cutting and you should be fine. After a few you will gain comfort in cutting letters and everything else. 

[Fab4]

Hi Melanie
Do not be intimidated
Go For It - You will be amazed as what you can accomplish
Good advice given in earlier posts
Should you not succeed on your first attempt, DO NOT give up
Learn from your mistakes and dive right back in
Let us know, how you make out
Good Luck
Fab4

 

[Jim McDonald]

Everyone has a different "deep end" they are hesitant to dive into. For me it is now inlay after I got comfortable doing compound cuts.

Stretch yourself and you will be amazed at what you can do.

Lettering can be intimidating, but unless the oops is major, you will be the only one worried.

[bandaideman]

you have all the good advise for the cut you want to do. I often on small delicate cuts use a #1 blade. The only suggestion I would add is be sure tohave a blade in the clamps before starting the cut.  Sorry got hit in the head with warped board to often resulted in warped sense of humor.    

[meflick]

Thanks everyone for the replies so far.  I wanted to see what all different approaches people would take as I figured there would be different ones, as there are.  That's why I asked,  I figured I could a little from each person.It's really those small swirly letters that I am most bothered with.  I haven't tried spiral blades yet so would practice for sure but I wondered if those were the best for cutting those fine letters. I have done some bigger, fatter lettering, but hadn't attempted fine cursive letters like these.  I figured this free pattern would be my "practice" attempt before I tried some of the other ones that I have purchased from there like the Family, Roots of the tree one!  I'll get there - just need to get brave and some free time. 

[OCtoolguy]

7 hours ago, meflick said:

I often see patterns that i like but wonder how the best way to cut parts of it may be. Stars for example or fine intricate, cursive lettering for another. So I have decided to run some of these questions by all the experts here in the Village and get some insight, helpful information for all of us newer scrollers. Similar to that provided last year when we discussed compound cuts.

I’ve made no secret that I am somewhat intimidated in cutting lettering. Especially lettering that is thin and intricate. A good example is the word art patterns that Keith Fenton does and makes available for sale on Sheila Landry’s site. I love so many of them but I am intimidated by them since they are often thin lettering, different fonts, etc. a good example right now is the free one they are offering right now “Home for the Holidays.” I have had it and some of their other patterns printed out but just. It sure enough to attempt one yet. Do you use thin wood and stack cut, what if you only want one not several because you don’t sell, just do one in thicker wood? What blade, is something like this where you would be better to use a spiral blade? Etc. I know to start in the middle, go slow, etc. but I am just not sure the best way to approach these types of patterns with the thin, delicate, cursive fonts.

So, anyone want to give some tips, recommendations, helpful knowledge? Any insight anyone can provide is appreciated.

Here is link to the free pattern I am referencing: http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/free-pattern and the picture of it captured from there so you guys and gals can see what I am referring to.

Well, I'm not the best person to be giving advice but if it were me, I'd just jump in and go for it. What the heck, if nothing else, it's practice. And that is what this is all about isn't it? Not like you only have one copy of the pattern. The stuff that I have done so far was way out of my league or comfort zone but I wanted to do it so I did. Sure, I know what the flaws are but most folks don't see them. And on the next one, I'll do better. And so on. Just do it!

 

[Rob]

One other thing Melanie.  If you do drift off the line a bit on the inner or outer curve of a letter, you may be better off making the same error on the corresponding inner or outer curve rather than slavishly following the pattern.   Symmetry is the important bit.  But hang on, I just saw the "Joy to the World" you cut, so what's all this nonsense about being intimidated by letters?  Fine letters are no different from wider fonts, they might even be easier.  Get stuck in!

Rob

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I will be honest that to me is a very easy pattern and as far as starting I would start with hollys and end with letters. I use 1/2" to 5/8" red oak for just about all my projects. I use a #5 Penguin silver reverse FD blade for just about all my cuts no matter how thin the lettering is. I would stay far away from spiral blades unless you practice with them and know what they feel like. They are a different bird for sure. Not in my repertoire though. Good luck 

[NC Scroller]

I have cut several including the Amazing Grace multi piece one.  I cut mine out of 1/2" maple.  I think I used a # 3 Pegas.  On that design I would also choose 1/2" -3/4" maple and start on the letters. But that is just me.  If I am working on one where I would have to use different size blades l cut the parts the need the smallest blades first.

[GrampaJim]

15 hours ago, Fab4 said:

Hi Melanie
Do not be intimidated
Go For It - You will be amazed as what you can accomplish
Good advice given in earlier posts
Should you not succeed on your first attempt, DO NOT give up
Learn from your mistakes and dive right back in
Let us know, how you make out
Good Luck
Fab4

 

Excellent advice! 

You will find the the block letters are harder than the script even though the script is thinner.

We have seen your Intarsia work so we know you can do this! 

[meflick]

11 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Well, I'm not the best person to be giving advice but if it were me, I'd just jump in and go for it. What the heck, if nothing else, it's practice. And that is what this is all about isn't it? Not like you only have one copy of the pattern. The stuff that I have done so far was way out of my league or comfort zone but I wanted to do it so I did. Sure, I know what the flaws are but most folks don't see them. And on the next one, I'll do better. And so on. Just do it!

 

Thanks Ray, I will jump in soon and give it a try.  My main goal here was to have a discussion and see all the different ways and blades, etc. that different people take to the same pattern so I (and perhaps others) could perhaps learn a little bit from everyone here on ways to approach something.  As you can see, so far we have had a great variety of responses from lots of folks and not to many would approach this in the same way, use the same blade, or the same woods or thicknesses. Like John, said its probably a fairly easy cut overall and I am not really intimidated by most of that pattern, the thin letters were my primary concern because I do have issues when working in small thin areas/items.  So, I wanted to see how others would approach those, if they used a smaller blade, a spiral blade, if the thickness or thinness of the wood or stack of wood would help or hurt, etc. I figured if I had that question, others who are newer to the saw would too and we would all learn.

Some people are like you and others here  (including my hubby) - just jump in and who cares, it will all work out - others of us tend to think about things too much, dip our toes in first and check the water temperature, get others advise, etc. and then eventually slowly get in the water (or hop back out half way in!)  - That's me - wish I was more of a just jump in type of gal though!  I have gotten better - keep telling myself its okay if it doesn't turn out!  That its okay to throw it away and start again.   So I decided to see what the "experts" could tell me before just jumping in.  It really isn't this specific pattern I want to jump into.  It's some of the more detailed, more intricate, more thin lettering ones they have that I want to get to.  I was going to use this one as my "warm up" to trying to do some of their more intricate, multi-panel, large detailed word art designs they sell on their site here: 

http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/category/large-sectional-patterns

Which would include some I have purchased liked the Old Rugged Cross (one of my all time favorite hymns), Our Family, and others there.

I have tried some thinner words, cuttings and they haven't always worked out very well. So I figured before I tried again, I would see what others said about how to approach them.

[meflick]

Thanks everyone who has chimed in and given me your insight and advise.  I appreciate it all.  I really appreciate the information on how you would do that thin lettering and the sign as a whole.  Thanks for  telling me what blades you would use, what wood you would use, thickness, stack cutting, etc.  That was what I was looking for.  Ideas to see how others approached thin lettering and these types of signs.  I hope others besides myself have been able to see that there are lots of ways to approach things like this with the saw.   Although I have been sawing with my saw now for not quite 3 years, I don't get a lot of time to do it daily or weekly. Sometimes, I have longer periods of time before I get back on the saw. When I do, I may be doing Intarsia work, or other stuff I like.  Plus, I still am still the same inpatient person I have always been.  I  still have to "think" about what I am doing, tell myself constantly, slow down, don't push, its not a race.  I still drift on the lines, struggle in corners, etc. I still have to tell myself that it's okay if you messed it up, to throw it away and to try again.  Maybe one day, I will believe it!  In the interim, I appreciate all of you who are so willing to impart your knowledge and wisdom on learning new things on the saw.

[kmmcrafts]

49 minutes ago, meflick said:

Thanks everyone who has chimed in and given me your insight and advise.  I appreciate it all.  I really appreciate the information on how you would do that thin lettering and the sign as a whole.  Thanks for  telling me what blades you would use, what wood you would use, thickness, stack cutting, etc.  That was what I was looking for.  Ideas to see how others approached thin lettering and these types of signs.  I hope others besides myself have been able to see that there are lots of ways to approach things like this with the saw.   Although I have been sawing with my saw now for not quite 3 years, I don't get a lot of time to do it daily or weekly. Sometimes, I have longer periods of time before I get back on the saw. When I do, I may be doing Intarsia work, or other stuff I like.  Plus, I still am still the same inpatient person I have always been.  I  still have to "think" about what I am doing, tell myself constantly, slow down, don't push, its not a race.  I still drift on the lines, struggle in corners, etc. I still have to tell myself that it's okay if you messed it up, to throw it away and to try again.  Maybe one day, I will believe it!  In the interim, I appreciate all of you who are so willing to impart your knowledge and wisdom on learning new things on the saw.

Who stays on the lines?? I make my own imaginary lines.... Even as much as I cut.. I'm still not perfectly always on the lines.. and I'm betting no one is.. otherwise they'd be a machine.. While most times these days I am on the line.. but still not perfect as most lines are thicker than the blade.. so even though i'm still on the line.. it's not perfectly in the center of that line all the time.. even stray completely off the line at times.. who cares.. it's not handmade if you don't mess it up now and then.. 

[NC Scroller]

Intarsia is where staying on the line is most critical.  With most other scrolling no one knows where the lines where when the pattern is removed.  Just relax and cut.

Edited January 13, 2019 by NC Scroller

[Scrappile]

On that one, I'd cut it in a hardwood, 1/2" or 3/8".  I would start at the top and just work my way down.  In that thick of hardwood, I do not think any of the cuttings would be very fragile. Like the man said, "Just relax and cut."

[meflick]

8 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Who stays on the lines?? I make my own imaginary lines.... Even as much as I cut.. I'm still not perfectly always on the lines.. and I'm betting no one is.. otherwise they'd be a machine.. While most times these days I am on the line.. but still not perfect as most lines are thicker than the blade.. so even though i'm still on the line.. it's not perfectly in the center of that line all the time.. even stray completely off the line at times.. who cares.. it's not handmade if you don't mess it up now and then.. 

Well, like Scott noted, with Intarsia, staying on the line is pretty important and remember, Intarsia work is what brought me to the Saw to begin with. however, it is also important in small thin areas of other work I have learned the hard way.  I do prefer red lined patterns, and can’t do without my magnification and lights at the Saw.  

[Paladin]

One of the things I learned from cutting Keith's patterns is when doing the script-type lettering, it is easier to cut the inside of the curve first then cut the outside.  This is especially important on the really thin areas.  If you do it in reverse, when cutting the inside, the blade will want to break through to where you already cut.  Cutting the inside first alleviates this problem and helps you to stay in the cut.

[Bill WIlson]

Hi Melanie.  I'm a little late to the party, but I'll chime in with my $.02.

First the wood selection.  It would depend on a few factors.  If I were only making one, I would likely make it out of a solid hardwood, not more than 1/2" thick.  Personally, I think Keith's word art plaques look best cut in thicker hardwoods, but that's just me.  If I had a bunch to make, I might stack cut them from 1/8" or 1/4" BB ply, but then I'd probably figure out a way to build a frame for them.  Perhaps if I were going to use some sort of holiday themed, multi-colored backer, then I would also go with the thin ply.  So, for me, much depends on how I want it to look and be displayed.

I wouldn't touch this pattern with a spiral blade.  I would likely use an Olson #3 MS or perhaps a comparable size FDUR.  I prefer using small blades for the finer detail and tightest turns.  I might switch out to a little larger one for the bigger letters, say a #5.

The only real delicate cuts you have there is the cursive writing in the middle.  I might start there and follow Paladin's advice above.  The rest, I think you are safe to just cut at will.  But I don't think the order is really critical on this particular piece.

Now the other patterns, with more cursive writing, will be a little more challenging.  But once you've done one, your confidence will grow.  Think of them all as just lines on the paper, that you follow with the blade.  Don't get too hung up on the size and complexity of the entire piece.  Break it into smaller bites and it will be easier to digest. 

Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

 

[meflick]

Thank you Steve and Bill for adding to the discussion and giving me more good information.  I need to find some wood and give it a go.  I'm not a big fan of BB Ply, BUT I may give it a go first with BB Ply so I feel better if I have to throw it away!  I really want to do them in a nice hardwood but that means I need to find some 1/2" or take some of the thicker wood like 3/4"  I have and get it down to 1/2".  I just hate having to "waste" that 1/4"