Dave Monk Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 I always struggle trying to clamp up the cylinders for a project like this. The minute I tighten my clamps the pieces loose alignment and slide around. Do you have any tricks on a project like this? 3Dface, spotsdad, barb.j.enders and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Don't have any tips, but wanted to say what a beautiful piece of work you have made there.. Dave Monk, Sam777, OCtoolguy and 2 others 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim McDonald Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Have you thought of sandbags? I saw that tip for making knife blocks, which I am going to do soon. By using gravity, there is no torsion from the clamps OCtoolguy, SCROLLSAW703 and Dave Monk 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Guess I don't have to worry about it. I will not live long enough to develop Dave's skill which I find unbelievable! meflick, Sam777, OCtoolguy and 1 other 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 If you are talking about stacking of the rings.The best way that I use is weight. I glue the rings and align them then I take a 10 lb weight and place it on a flat board. I have a bunch of baltic birch cutoffs of different sizes I use for this. I place the weight on the board and then lift the board and set it gently on the top ring. I use Titebond II wood glue so after a couple minutes it is tacky enough nothing moves around. I will check the alignment after a couple more minutes to make sure all is fine. I then replace the board with the weight making sure it is centered on the rings and will add another 25 pound weight on top of the 10. That is plenty of downward pressure and clamping pressure. I do this all the time. Need to make sure the board is flat and the table you set on is flat. I use my barbell weights being I do not lift any more. Dave Monk, kmmcrafts and OCtoolguy 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 I keep a stack of bricks in my shop. I’ll lay a scrap piece of plywood on top of the pieces I’m gluing then stack some bricks on top of that. SCROLLSAW703, Dave Monk and kmmcrafts 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Nice work on that, it is beautiful. I use Titebond II for glue ups like this. It tacks up pretty quick, then I'll apply clamps with cauls . I have used weights in the past but think I get more control with the clamps. Right before your tighten them up all the way, check the alignment, you can use a soft dead blow hammer to make minor adjustments with out damaging the wood. OCtoolguy, kmmcrafts and SCROLLSAW703 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Clamping is hard and frustrating. I have several jigs, but none really make it easier. I am going to get a strap clamp one of these days and try it. Lately I have been using Titebond Quick and thick glue. It is very tacky and just holding it in place for around20 seconds it set enough that I can then add clamps. The more I us it the more I like it, and it dries clear. However, I have not used it long enough to know how good it holds long term. Ask me again in a couple years. That is a beautiful box, Dave. You always set the bar so high. OCtoolguy, Dave Monk and WayneMahler 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordster Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 I use weights too Dave.But I have had them move on me there also. Lately I have been holding them in place until the glue sets up a bit.then put the clamps on or put the weights on it. OCtoolguy and Dave Monk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 4 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said: If you are talking about stacking of the rings.The best way that I use is weight. I glue the rings and align them then I take a 10 lb weight and place it on a flat board. I have a bunch of baltic birch cutoffs of different sizes I use for this. I place the weight on the board and then lift the board and set it gently on the top ring. I use Titebond II wood glue so after a couple minutes it is tacky enough nothing moves around. I will check the alignment after a couple more minutes to make sure all is fine. I then replace the board with the weight making sure it is centered on the rings and will add another 25 pound weight on top of the 10. That is plenty of downward pressure and clamping pressure. I do this all the time. Need to make sure the board is flat and the table you set on is flat. I use my barbell weights being I do not lift any more. I never did lift but now I understand owning the weights. Lol. kmmcrafts, Dave Monk and Fran L 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScollSaw Slasher Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Gorgeous piece of work Dave. Can't add much to what's already been said, but I occasionally have used filled gallon paint cans for weight. And sometimes we crank on those clamps so hard that something has got to give, and usually it's the alignment of the pieces being glued.. Dave Monk and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted February 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 8 hours ago, WayneMahler said: Nice work on that, it is beautiful. I use Titebond II for glue ups like this. It tacks up pretty quick, then I'll apply clamps with cauls . I have used weights in the past but think I get more control with the clamps. Right before your tighten them up all the way, check the alignment, you can use a soft dead blow hammer to make minor adjustments with out damaging the wood. Wayne, The word "cauls" was a new one for me. I thought for sure you had made a spelling error so I had to Google it. There's a different idea for sure. Thanks. OCtoolguy and WayneMahler 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordster Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 Dave,another solution is to get it ready to glue.you get it in place and hold it firmly and get Julie to put the clamps on...I am certain she won't charge you too much lol. OCtoolguy, WayneMahler and Dave Monk 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevan Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) While I have not done this... You can sprinkle a bit of salt onto one surface and it acts as "teeth" to hold the pieces together to keep them from moving/sliding. Again, I've not done this so YMMV. Edited February 5, 2019 by stevan typo GrampaJim and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 I have seen the salt tip on TV and tryed it once. But I used to much salt and it didn’t hold. Very little is good. Also I have used the drill press. Put a flat piece of plywood on top of project then raise the table up to the chuck. Works for me. Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) Okay, I had to look up cauls. I guess I use them also, just didn't know what they were called. I also saw some pictures of new born babies and learned something there I didn't know!! I think this is a great idea because the "cauls" are so easy to make and they would, I think, work on different angles other than just a 45'. Edited February 5, 2019 by Scrappile Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sycamore67 Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 For some boxes, I use blue masking tape. To align the corners and clamp the corners together. You might try this to get things aligned and then add weight carefully to the top. If all the surfaces are flat and meet well, you do not need a lot of weight. Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 If I'm understanding the question correctly, you could use a bowl press, such as what Carole Rothman recommends for her stacked ring bowls. It's similar in concept to using cauls, except the cauls are simply squares of 3/4" thick plywood (or something similar) a little larger than the outside dimensions of your project. One goes on the top and one goes on the bottom. You just sandwich your project in-between. You can use all-thread bolts and knobs, through holes drilled through the corners as clamps or I just use Irwin Quick Clamps all around the edge of the plywood. Snug them up gently and slowly, alternating corners, to apply even pressure, all the way around. As for the salt trick, yes it does work. The key is to only use a few grains. It doesn't take much. When I make stacked ring bowls, there is a tendency for the rings to shift slightly during glue up and the salt trick helps keep them in place. Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 There are many variations to cauls and uses. Just to give you some idea. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=woodworking+cauls&id=DBD370EBC6D71E145D5E18EE00C210BC52E7E1E2&FORM=IQFRBA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 After reading Bill's response and going back and looking at your box, I am going at the wrong thing. I thought you were worrying gluing the sides together but looks like there are only horizontal joints,,,, correct? Not angle joints.. I would make myself a bowl press, if I were to make many of these types of boxes. The strap clamp and corner pieces would help keep the pieces aligned as you apply downward pressure. Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted February 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 6 hours ago, Gordster said: Dave,another solution is to get it ready to glue.you get it in place and hold it firmly and get Julie to put the clamps on...I am certain she won't charge you too much lol. I've got her working so I can afford to spend more time in my shop. meflick and Gordster 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meflick Posted February 5, 2019 Report Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) Carole Rothman gives detail information on making a bowl press in her books. You can find a little info. with a picture of one on her blog here: http://scrollsawbowls.blogspot.com/2013/06/easy-fix-to-make-taller-bowl-press.html She also references getting the idea, information from Dave Van Ess on his site scroll mania.com. He actually provides the information on how to create one there:: http://scrollmania.com/Documents/MakingAUniversalPress.pdf I have created a press from Carole's book. (Even if the bowl I attempted ended up in the firewood box. ) I will try again. It was early in my process of learning and the alignment and sanding had more to do with more poor cutting and sanding skills then the information from Carole! Forgot to say - beautiful box. I love seeing your work on these. One day I will attempt something like those. Edited February 5, 2019 by meflick Dave Monk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjweb Posted February 6, 2019 Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 Don' really have any solutions for you other than what has been offered, But that is beautiful project, we used to have a saying when I shot target archery, there was this one man that was excellent, so we used to say he was stinking up the field, because we couldn't even come close to his score. How long did that take you to complete, was it a special order, or just for inventory, thx for showing, RJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted February 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 36 minutes ago, rjweb said: Don' really have any solutions for you other than what has been offered, But that is beautiful project, we used to have a saying when I shot target archery, there was this one man that was excellent, so we used to say he was stinking up the field, because we couldn't even come close to his score. How long did that take you to complete, was it a special order, or just for inventory, thx for showing, RJ I must admit....some days I get pretty smelly. I try to keep one in my inventory for craft shows. I really don't keep track of how long it takes me to make something............If I am doing inlaid boxes I may do 12 tops before I start completing them. That Superman box I would guess takes me about 4 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted February 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2019 I love all the different ideas you guys have shared. Thanks soooooooooooo much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpg.95d348aa76923344a5cab534cc1b3bc1.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.