Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)

[Iguanadon]

I have opened a serious can of worms, haven't I?  LOL  As always, a wealth of information here at SSV and very much appreciated.  I mixed some BLO and Mineral Spirits and dipped a couple pieces of scrap in it and have it drying to see how it does.  I'll experiment with the other suggestions here as well.  Keep chiming in, I'm all ears.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

38 minutes ago, Iguanadon said:

I have opened a serious can of worms, haven't I?  LOL  As always, a wealth of information here at SSV and very much appreciated.  I mixed some BLO and Mineral Spirits and dipped a couple pieces of scrap in it and have it drying to see how it does.  I'll experiment with the other suggestions here as well.  Keep chiming in, I'm all ears.

If you have the resources I agree that is the best way to see for yourself the methods and products used. You can then make a better evaluation and choice.

[Dave Monk]

I made this pan to put my Danish Oil in. While a puzzle is soaking one is dripping.

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, Dave Monk said:

I made this pan to put my Danish Oil in. While a puzzle is soaking one is dripping.

I like it. I just have to start buying my stuff in gallons. 

 

[Dave Monk]

14 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

I like it. I just have to start buying my stuff in gallons. 

 

I use quite a bit of it so it is quite a bit cheaper. I dump what is left back in the can.

[OCtoolguy]

3 minutes ago, Dave Monk said:

I use quite a bit of it so it is quite a bit cheaper. I dump what is left back in the can.

Well, so far, I'm still not educated enough to know what I need to use so I have hesitated to buy anything in quantity. But, It looks like I'm going to be sticking to the Watco oil for a while. I have used it and once it's dried/cured I spray with spray lacquer. What can you tell me about varnish/spray varnish? 

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

2 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Well, so far, I'm still not educated enough to know what I need to use so I have hesitated to buy anything in quantity. But, It looks like I'm going to be sticking to the Watco oil for a while. I have used it and once it's dried/cured I spray with spray lacquer. What can you tell me about varnish/spray varnish? 

 

This may help all

 

https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/painting/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer

[Bill WIlson]

I've recommended these books several times, in various finishing threads.  I'll do so again.  They really are worth the effort to get and read.

[Rob]

OK @Iguanadon how did you get on with BLO mix?  Personally, 50/50 BLO with white spirit (mineral spirit to you) or turpentine is all I use.  I tried mineral oil (paraffin liquid over here) once but hated the fact that it didn't dry.  I do use it in a beeswax mix though.

Rob

P.S.  have sent a few customers your way recently (for patterns).

 

 

[OCtoolguy]

On 2/25/2019 at 8:34 AM, Bill WIlson said:

I've recommended these books several times, in various finishing threads.  I'll do so again.  They really are worth the effort to get and read.

I did buy the top one but got busy and didn't read all of it. It's a great book.

 

[Bill WIlson]

10 hours ago, octoolguy said:

I did buy the top one but got busy and didn't read all of it. It's a great book.

 

That's good.  Both books probably contain way more information than the average woodworker will ever want or need, but the basics are all there, explained in detail.  Both authors are widely respected authorities on the subject of wood finishes. 

Choosing the right finish comes down to understanding the characteristics of the products you are considering; how they are best applied, how they cure; their protective qualities (or lack thereof), their appearance, etc.  If that is all one gets from either of these 2 books, it is still worth the price of purchase, IMHO. 

[Iguanadon]

On 2/26/2019 at 8:37 PM, Rob said:

OK @Iguanadon how did you get on with BLO mix?  Personally, 50/50 BLO with white spirit (mineral spirit to you) or turpentine is all I use.  I tried mineral oil (paraffin liquid over here) once but hated the fact that it didn't dry.  I do use it in a beeswax mix though.

Rob

P.S.  have sent a few customers your way recently (for patterns).

 

 

Hey Rob, thanks for the new puzzle zombies.  Always happy to have more. 

First test with the BLO mix was OK.  Need to test my scrap pieces again for any "bleeding" on a paper towel compared to mineral oil pieces.  I'm just so set in my ways it's hard for me to make a change... I love the simplicity of the mineral oil... no mixing, it doesn't need stirring, I just buy it by the gallon and use it when I need it... We'll see.

[Bill WIlson]

1 hour ago, Iguanadon said:

... I love the simplicity of the mineral oil... no mixing, it doesn't need stirring, I just buy it by the gallon and use it when I need it... We'll see.

As far as simplicity is concerned, it isn't really necessary to add mineral spirits to the BLO.  It helps application and absorption somewhat, but that's about it.  You could just apply the BLO right from the container, just like you do with the mineral oil.  The practical difference between BLO and mineral oil, is that BLO is a drying oil.  It takes a while, but BLO will eventually cure.  Mineral does not.  BLO also imparts slightly more amber tint to the wood than mineral oil, which helps pop the grain, especially on dark wood.  In reality, neither one is really a true "finish" in the technical sense.  Neither builds a film and neither is an effective barrier against moisture vapor.  They do both alter the appearance of raw wood and water will bead up on the surface of wood that has been oiled, but only temporarily.

I don't mean to denigrate either product.  Both have their uses and I use both, from time to time, but only for specific purposes.  There really isn't anything magical about either one.

Just be careful with any BLO soaked rags.  They are a fire hazard and proper disposal is essential, in order to prevent a fire.

[Phantom Scroller]

This a busy thread did anyone mention lemon oil I use that lovely smell. I know it dries slowly just don't put it on a polished table. oops. Roly

[Iguanadon]

35 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

As far as simplicity is concerned, it isn't really necessary to add mineral spirits to the BLO.  It helps application and absorption somewhat, but that's about it.  You could just apply the BLO right from the container, just like you do with the mineral oil.  The practical difference between BLO and mineral oil, is that BLO is a drying oil.  It takes a while, but BLO will eventually cure.  Mineral does not.  BLO also imparts slightly more amber tint to the wood than mineral oil, which helps pop the grain, especially on dark wood.  In reality, neither one is really a true "finish" in the technical sense.  Neither builds a film and neither is an effective barrier against moisture vapor.  They do both alter the appearance of raw wood and water will bead up on the surface of wood that has been oiled, but only temporarily.

I don't mean to denigrate either product.  Both have their uses and I use both, from time to time, but only for specific purposes.  There really isn't anything magical about either one.

Just be careful with any BLO soaked rags.  They are a fire hazard and proper disposal is essential, in order to prevent a fire.

Good stuff Bill, thank you very much for the comparison and details. (Thanks to everyone that has chimed in so far).  I do hesitate about the BLO soaked rags, however, I don't wipe off excess with the mineral oil, I simply lay on a drying rack and planned on doing the same with the BLO.  Anything wrong with that approach that you know of?

[rdatelle]

Iggy, I'm like you. I dip mine in MS for maybe a minute and take it out. Let it drip dry for a day and wipe it down.  You have been doing a lot of puzzles with out to much of a problem. You know the old saying. Don't fix it if it isn't broke. I guess it's what ever works for you.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

2 hours ago, Phantom Scroller said:

This a busy thread did anyone mention lemon oil I use that lovely smell. I know it dries slowly just don't put it on a polished table. oops. Roly

My use for lemon oil is as a carrier for when I am polishing out a project. That project usually has some exotic wood that needs no top coat and just needs to be polished to high rich shine. Along with mineral oil it does not last long. In a few days the oil is dried and the wood looks dry and feels dry. I do not like that look.

[Iguanadon]

4 hours ago, rdatelle said:

Iggy, I'm like you. I dip mine in MS for maybe a minute and take it out. Let it drip dry for a day and wipe it down.  You have been doing a lot of puzzles with out to much of a problem. You know the old saying. Don't fix it if it isn't broke. I guess it's what ever works for you.

Valid point Ralph... over 3,000 puzzles and I've never had a customer say anything to me about it even when they've come back and bought more puzzles.  Pluse I really like the fact that the mineral oil is "kid and pet friendly" in the event they get into a mouth.  I should just be happy with what I'm doing.

[kmmcrafts]

I don't think there is as much of an issue with the Mineral Oil bleeding out on Poplar like it does with so many other types of wood so probably not many complaints would come through for that process... I surely wouldn't do that with cherry or oak .. especially oak and some of the other quality hardwoods with the open grain.. 

For many of us that do home decor type pieces the mineral oil alone isn't a finish we choose because it does not dry.. and it will wash away during cleaning / dusting of a piece.. and can / will get onto your hands on things people handle a lot.. These type of things need a more sealed type finish in my opinion..

For what it's worth.. all wood finishes sold in the USA once fully cured are child and pet safe.. from what I've been told...

[Bill WIlson]

9 hours ago, Iguanadon said:

Good stuff Bill, thank you very much for the comparison and details. (Thanks to everyone that has chimed in so far).  I do hesitate about the BLO soaked rags, however, I don't wipe off excess with the mineral oil, I simply lay on a drying rack and planned on doing the same with the BLO.  Anything wrong with that approach that you know of?

How and how much BLO is applied, will determine if your technique will be a problem or not.  It all depends on whether or not the wood absorbs all the oil.  The standard procedure for BLO application is to wipe it on liberally, let it set for a few minutes, then wipe it off.  Some will do more than one application.  It depends on the wood and how porous the grain is.  Open grain wood like red oak will obviously absorb more oil than a closed grain wood like maple.  If you flood the wood with BLO, I recommend wiping off any excess, after several minutes.  If you don't, you risk the excess oil staying soft for a long time.  It will feel gummy and greasy, attract dust/dirt, show fingerprints, etc.

If you apply the BLO lightly, by wiping it on, you may not have to wipe any off, but you will still have BLO soaked rags.  The key is to not ball them up and throw them in the trash can.  If you are familiar with baling hay, you know that you can't pack damp hay bales in a barn or heat builds up sufficient to ignite the hay.  Think of BLO rags as bales of hay.  After using them, spread them out on a non-flammable surface until they are dry.  Or you can put them in a pail of water.  I take mine outside and hang them someplace where they get air circulation to dry.  Throw them in an outdoor fire ring.  Spread them out on the driveway.  Just never ball them up and put them in a trash can.  The rags are a hazard, but one that is readily managed.  Folks just need to know the dangers.

I'm not trying to sell anyone on BLO over mineral oil.  If the mineral oil gives you what you want, then by all means keep using it.  I just think it's good to know the relevant strengths and weaknesses of any finishing product you use, so that you can choose the appropriate one for your project.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.com/mineral-oil-as-a-wood-finish/