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Construction vs Clear Pine Grain


Rockytime

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The words construction and clear pine may not be the correct terminology. This week end I cut a couple of things. One was a tractor I had started a couple of months ago and quit. I quit because the grain pattern was so pronounced that the blade would cut a few strokes and then grind away for a bit and then start cutting again. It was a pain. It was what I call construction grade or cheap stuff. I then cut a Steve Good word pattern in what I call clear pine. It cut so silky smooth, almost like Poplar. The grain nearly invisible. I cut pine because it is fairly inexpensive and readily available. There two HD and Lowes near my home. Perhaps I'm the only scroller that did not know about the extreme differences. I was amazed.

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One on the left is Southern Yellow Pine and the one on the right is white pine. You are correct the construction pine is tougher and the grain lines are tough to cut with a scrollsaw blade. White pine or clear pine as it is called in the field is softer and less harsh grain and makes better for painting and craft work but is not as strong as yellow pine. Then there is Blue pine and Knotty pine. Sugar pine is another term used and that is in the species of white pine.

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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Sycamore67 really nailed it.  Any species of wood that is cut quarter sawn will give you that same experience.  Quarter sawn wood is actually more expensive and is sought after by many furniture makers as the wood does not cup and twist like flat sawn wood.

https://www.advantagelumber.com/sawn-lumber/

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32 minutes ago, NC Scroller said:

Sycamore67 really nailed it.  Any species of wood that is cut quarter sawn will give you that same experience.  Quarter sawn wood is actually more expensive and is sought after by many furniture makers as the wood does not cup and twist like flat sawn wood.

https://www.advantagelumber.com/sawn-lumber/

This is what I look for when buying certain types of wood.. mainly Red or White Oak.. I won't even buy unless it's quarter sawn. I have a lot of trouble with cupping etc otherwise.. Might just be the supplier I get it from but.. many times the wood cupped before I even get it home.. Only oak I use that isn't quarter sawn is free stuff that I get from my brothers mill.. which I get quite a bit of.. but i feel if it cups or warps.. it was free so I either use for other projects or campfire wood.. LOL.. But if I'm paying for wood... it better be good stuff..

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I use popular I get it at Paxton woods there is only 3 stores in the us. it is plainedd to .800 but the edges are rougn for most scrollers that don't mean anything, the price is good only $275 per board foot I get walnut for $6 per board foot and other common hard wood for $3  to $5 pr board foot. I very seldom use pine unless it is free.So I don't know much about the grains of woods. to me Popular is the way to go.

ike

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3 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

The problem with quartersawn is the look is bland. With flatsawn wood you pick up the natural rays. I will not use quartersawn wood in my scrollsawn projects. I deal with warpage many different ways if it happens. Red oak is my go to wood. Love the look. 

I like red oak looks but I also don’t like the smell of it. The bland look is really an opinion and dependent on project at hand. Most of my clocks that I make from oak.. by the time I do all the cutouts there’s not enough wood to really see the wood grain anyway. I do agree with this on larger portrait type designs and some of the clock designs. Oak is my last go to type wood, much rather work with cherry as that is my go to wood. Love working with walnut too but I don’t think it looks good but only on certain projects as the darker color doesn’t always show the details as good. But it’s all personal preferences and options. 

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