Toothpick Posted February 27, 2019 Report Posted February 27, 2019 Finished this yesterday and applied Danish Oil. Now I’m wondering how to secure it? There is not much surface area for glue. And i don’t want it to squeeze out because it would be hard to clean it up. Any ideas? How do y’all do it? I was thinking epoxy on the few areas with the most surface Thanks! OCtoolguy, Sam777 and spotsdad 1 1 1 Quote
Jim McDonald Posted February 27, 2019 Report Posted February 27, 2019 First--Great looking piece! I would probably use a pen applicator of gel super glue in 15 or 20 places around the overlay. Get the longer setting stuff (5 minutes or so) and use books or something as weight to clamp. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
MrsN Posted February 27, 2019 Report Posted February 27, 2019 I have used Elmers Glue-All for the last few things I have glued to backers. It is a white PVA glue and dries clear. Spread it on thin and weight the project with a book or two. https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Glue-All-Multi-Purpose-Liquid-E3850/dp/B0045PVK9Q/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=elmers+glue+all&qid=1551292370&s=hardware&sr=1-2 OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Rockytime Posted February 27, 2019 Report Posted February 27, 2019 Amazing piece of cutting! OCtoolguy 1 Quote
jerry1939 Posted February 27, 2019 Report Posted February 27, 2019 I've posted this before & some people were delighted to learn it. My personal favorite is Elmer's School Glue. Lay down a sheet of wax paper. Apply rows of glue & trowel it evenly with a credit card. Drop your piece onto the glue, pick it up, rotate it slightly & drop it the second time. The glue is now applied evenly and you rarely have a hint of squeeze out. Elmer's dries clear. jerry OCtoolguy, Foxfold and Gordster 2 1 Quote
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted February 27, 2019 Report Posted February 27, 2019 Very nice cutting. Just curious why you did not glue it before you finished it?? If I did the procedure you did then I would resort to epoxy and use the dabbing of the sponge method. I would have glued first and then used Titebond II and again sponge method. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Ctutor Posted February 27, 2019 Report Posted February 27, 2019 I'd use Tightbond translucent lue using a few dabs around the perimeter. The translucent glue may ooze out but is transparent and would not interrfer with the appearance. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
teachnlearn Posted February 27, 2019 Report Posted February 27, 2019 There are various grades of hot glue from a hot glue gun. Had an employer of a restaurant, hot glue a large microwave to a shelf. It stayed for the year I was there. Wouldn't have done that myself, but I was surprised it stayed that length of time. RJF OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Toothpick Posted February 28, 2019 Author Report Posted February 28, 2019 4 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said: Very nice cutting. Just curious why you did not glue it before you finished it?? If I did the procedure you did then I would resort to epoxy and use the dabbing of the sponge method. I would have glued first and then used Titebond II and again sponge method. I did the two pieces different colors. Would be tough to do that already glued. Doesn’t look like two different colors cause the woods were so close in color already. Thanks for the replies everyone! I’ve got some greats ideas now Quote
Gordster Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 I have used Jerry's idea quite a few times,it works great,Jerry is borderline genius in my books. New Guy 1 Quote
jollyred Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 Since you will be gluing over a finish, I would add some pin nails from the back as insurance. By putting them around the edge, you can be sure of hitting wood. Pin nails can be as short as 3/8", and as long as 2". They are so small you could probably put some in the front and no one would ever see them. Quote
teachnlearn Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 This could be the answer and a Way, WAY, WAY overkill. This is used in the industry for permanent mounting. Few small pieces will hold it forever. Just make sure you place it once, cause it's going to be that way FOREVER! I used this in the industry and at home. RJF https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BT0A6MG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=permanent+tape&qid=1551325133&refinements=p_89%3A3M&rnid=2528832011&s=gateway&sr=8-4 Quote
woodduck Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 I use a small foam paint roller About 2. i/2" in length &1 1/4"in diameter .I then load it up with PVA glue from a small tray & roll it over the back of the pattern you end up with a very thin layer of glue & no squeeze out. JTTHECLOCKMAN and Scrolling Steve 2 Quote
Scrolling Steve Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 7 hours ago, woodduck said: I use a small foam paint roller About 2. i/2" in length &1 1/4"in diameter .I then load it up with PVA glue from a small tray & roll it over the back of the pattern you end up with a very thin layer of glue & no squeeze out. I am a big fan of the foam roller and titebond glue. Quote
NC Scroller Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 Similar to Jerry I use freezer paper and a one inch paint roller covered with a piece of foam pipe insulation. Quote
Hermit Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 I see at least 4 "wide enough" spaces to add a drop of pva. Then for insurance a few pin nails from the back. Quote
Toothpick Posted February 28, 2019 Author Report Posted February 28, 2019 The glue on the foam roller - stupid question time, ...is the roller one time use or does the glue wash out?. And I assume you can simply pour the glue from the tray back in the bottle.... Quote
NC Scroller Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Toothpick said: The glue on the foam roller - stupid question time, ...is the roller one time use or does the glue wash out?. And I assume you can simply pour the glue from the tray back in the bottle.... There are no stupid questions. The foam roller last me 100's of projects. I still have most of the 4' piece of pipe insulation I started out with 10 years ago. When done just wipe off the glue with a wet paper towel. Should you get busy and forget to clean it don't worry. Allow to dry completely (over night) and then peel the glue off. My glue of choice is Gorilla brand wood glue. It dries clear. BTW I got this tip from the late Dirk Boelman at a scroll saw class. Edited February 28, 2019 by NC Scroller added picture Quote
jerry1939 Posted February 28, 2019 Report Posted February 28, 2019 20 hours ago, Gordster said: I have used Jerry's idea quite a few times,it works great,Jerry is borderline genius in my books. Gordie, I can agree on your word BORDERLINE, the rest; Nope! Gordster 1 Quote
Toothpick Posted February 28, 2019 Author Report Posted February 28, 2019 Thanks, Scott. I appreciate everyone’s input here. I didn’t have a lot of the stuff mentioned on hand. But I had the superglue. So that’s what I used. Superglue quite a few spots around the piece and stacked some books on it. It appears to be holding fine. I’m giving it to my buddy tomorrow. Now I got a bunch of great tips for future projects! Quote
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