Cutting Hardwood Smalls

[Mort Tenon]

I have a new project I want to tackle, but I'm having trouble. 

I want to make a chess set, but I want hardwood men and I need to know what blade will work for this. It requires some tight turns in one inch-plus thick sepele  and hickory which are both pretty dense woods. These are 3D compound cut pieces, so they must be done in one pass and taped together to turn and do the other side. 

Any suggestions for blades for this? Has anyone done this?

 

The test piece shown was cut from soft wood—pine or something, and gave me a lot of trouble. I can't get a blade to even cut the sepele.

 

Edited February 28, 2019 by Mort Tenon
Clarity

[NC Scroller]

I would use a skip tooth blade like the Flying Dutchman Polar blade.  I would use a #5  or #7 size.  I would also make a compound cutting jig like this to hold the blocks secure while cutting. Go slow.  

Edited February 28, 2019 by NC Scroller
typo

[Scrappile]

I'd get a few sizes of "skip tooth" or "Super Skip tooth" blades without reverse teeth.  Like #1, #3, #5 see which works the best.  I like the Pegas blades for this kind of work, but I am sure other brands have equivalent.

Now, keep in mind I have not done a lot of compound cutting so wait for more responses from one with more expertise.

Please keep us informed on your progress.  A chess set is on my to do list this year.

Another note.  I just purchased some Pegas blades from QTE North America, Inc.  and they sent a nice blade chart of what blades a they have.  They sent me the wrong blades, but I do have this nice chart... They are suppose to be sending me the correct blades.

Edited February 28, 2019 by Scrappile

[OCtoolguy]

You mentioned sapele. I want to make a bowl from a pattern in SSWC a couple of years back. It calls for 3/4" sapele but I have yet to find a supplier. Where did you find yours? I have found turning blanks I might add.

 

[Scrappile]

How about going with mahogany, looks much like sepele but softer, easier to cut.

@octoolguy search on the internet turned up several places that sell sepele.  The shipping might kill the deal though.

[OCtoolguy]

47 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

How about going with mahogany, looks much like sepele but softer, easier to cut.

@octoolguy search on the internet turned up several places that sell sepele.  The shipping might kill the deal though.

Paul, that's exactly what I have decided to do. And you are right about the shipping. That's the bugaboo on all the wood suppliers. I have a pretty good one about an hour from me so I am going to try to put together and order and go pick it up when it gets large enough to warrant the trip. My Buick Enclave gets crappy gas mileage.

 

[Mort Tenon]

6 hours ago, NC Scroller said:

I would use a skip tooth blade like the Flying Dutchman Polar blade.  I would use a #5  or #7 size.  I would also make a compound cutting jig like this to hold the blocks secure while cutting. Go slow.  

 

Thanks. I have a jig just like those,  and I think I have a bunch of skip tooth blades in my "misc. bin." I dig through that and try it. 

[Mort Tenon]

3 hours ago, Scrappile said:

How about going with mahogany, looks much like sepele but softer, easier to cut.

Sapele is what I have, I have no mahogany right now. I have several pieces of walnut, but nothing thick enough without laminating. I was hoping to avoid that and the sapele I have is 8/4.

 

 

4 hours ago, octoolguy said:

You mentioned sapele. I want to make a bowl from a pattern in SSWC a couple of years back. It calls for 3/4" sapele but I have yet to find a supplier. Where did you find yours? I have found turning blanks I might add.

 

I got mine at Woodworker's Source in Tucson. Quartersawn, $10.99 bd. ft. We're going back down in a couple of weeks. I might look for mahogany.

Edited February 28, 2019 by Mort Tenon

[Mort Tenon]

6 hours ago, Scrappile said:

I'd get a few sizes of "skip tooth" or "Super Skip tooth" blades without reverse teeth.  Like #1, #3, #5 see which works the best.  I like the Pegas blades for this kind of work, but I am sure other brands have equivalent.

Now, keep in mind I have not done a lot of compound cutting so wait for more responses from one with more expertise.

Please keep us informed on your progress.  A chess set is on my to do list this year.

Another note.  I just purchased some Pegas blades from QTE North America, Inc.  and they sent a nice blade chart of what blades a they have.  They sent me the wrong blades, but I do have this nice chart... They are suppose to be sending me the correct blades.

I have Olson Mach Speed in #3, 5 and 7, but they are all reverse. The #7 is 8 tpi and rated for hardwood over 1/2 in, but it hardly dents the wood. I have some Pegas #2/0 that I want to try, but that is the only Pegas I have. Also bear in mind that I have to make some tight turns with that #7 in very hard wood. Not sure I can do that.

Edited February 28, 2019 by Mort Tenon

[Scrappile]

I know what you mean, I have done a little compound cutting, not in that hard of wood.  I want to do a chess set or two and for the dark wood I plan on cocobolo because I have quite a stash of thick short pieces of it.  That is hard, dense wood. 

[Sycamore67]

I think a #7 blade is too large to make tight turns and a #5 would be better.  You will also need to change blades frequently as the blades will dull more quickly in the dense woods..

I use a jig like that but with small knobs to hold easier, sandpaper on the inside and springs on the threaded rod to maintain constant pressure on the work piece.  Without the springs, after you cut part of it, it will not be as tight.

[Mort Tenon]

12 hours ago, Sycamore67 said:

I use a jig like that but with small knobs to hold easier, sandpaper on the inside and springs on the threaded rod to maintain constant pressure on the work piece.  Without the springs, after you cut part of it, it will not be as tight.

I like  that jig. I have heard of the sandpaper idea, the springs are unique.

[meflick]

Mort, there is a thread or two on here from the slightly distant past where I asked about compound cutting and many people chimed in with great help and information.  I will see if I can track it down for you.  It is well worth a read through for anyone looking to cut compound cuts.  One key thing that I learned from it, as already noted by several here, is that you want to have a skip tooth blade, not a reverse.  You need the skip tooth blade so that it will work better to clear out the wood in the cut.  This would be particularly true the harder the wood you use.  Also, I have learned that there is no "perfect" blade for any one project or any one person.  So the best thing to do is try out several and see what one you like and works best for you.  The primary thing is you want the biggest blade you can get, that will let you make the turns you need - especially with a hard wood. You may need to order some new blades to work with.

If I find the thread(s) I am talking about I will come back and post a link back.

EDITED TO ADD: This thread has a discussion and a little ways down has a link to the one I was talking about where there was lots of information/help/instructions in cutting compound cuts in general from several members.

 https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/30749-i-need-some-blade-advice-for-this-compound-cut/?tab=comments#comment-343457

 

Edited March 1, 2019 by meflick

[Sycamore67]

I did some testing and posted results about PS WOODS Super Sharps blades.  They cut much better and easier than any other blade I have tried.  Unfortunately, they are much more expensive at about $10 for 12 blades.

I have used them for special projects but too expensive for me for normal cutting.

[Mort Tenon]

7 hours ago, meflick said:

 

EDITED TO ADD: This thread has a discussion and a little ways down has a link to the one I was talking about where there was lots of information/help/instructions in cutting compound cuts in general from several members.

Thanks. some helpful stuff there.

Blade drift is always a problem, and while I always try to keep all my saws absolutely perpendicular to the wood, well, stuff happens. Blade tension is important as well, and these pieces are much thicker and harder than what I usually do. I use a lot of red oak because it's readily available and inexpensive, but it is usually not more than ½ in. thick, where these are over an inch. 

No problem. This too, I shall overcome...

[OCtoolguy]

Whereabouts are you in AZ?

 

[Norm Fengstad]

I made many compound cuts using the jig method, I found Pegas modified geometry blade # 3 and #1 to cut most hardwoods including sapele . this blade was good on turns and worked better at medium blsde speed and real patient feed rate.

[Mort Tenon]

On 3/1/2019 at 5:43 PM, octoolguy said:

Whereabouts are you in AZ?

 

I'm just outside of Show Low, in Navajo County.

Edited March 3, 2019 by Mort Tenon

[Mort Tenon]

On 3/2/2019 at 12:15 PM, Norm Fengstad said:

I made many compound cuts using the jig method, I found Pegas modified geometry blade # 3 and #1 to cut most hardwoods including sapele . this blade was good on turns and worked better at medium blsde speed and real patient feed rate.

Something that beginners, and even some who have done it for a while, don't quite get is that the feed rate is probably more important than the speed of the blade. Something that comes with practice, I guess...

Edited March 3, 2019 by Mort Tenon

[Wichman]

To make my heart boxes I have to cut a sliding dovetail joint in 1 1/2 (6/4) Oak, and I've cut these in the same thickness in purpleheart.

Right now I'm using FD Corian blades (no longer available) #3 and they work fairly well, when I order more I'll get FD polar #1 (personal preference, I like small blades).

I'm using a Delta 40-560 two speed scrollsaw, I always cut on high speed (I've tried to cut on low, still try every now and then but; no).

 

[OCtoolguy]

On 3/3/2019 at 3:40 PM, Mort Tenon said:

I'm just outside of Show Low, in Navajo County.

I have a close friend who lives in a senior park there by the name of Quail Ridge, if I'm not mistaken.

 

[Mort Tenon]

12 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Quail Ridge,

I'm not familiar with a Quail Ridge around here. That doesn't mean there isn't one, I just don't know about it. There is a 55+ "Quail Creek" south of Tucson.