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Dewalt scroll saw


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I purchased the dewalt scroll saw, and I love the job it does for me, however, I have a challenge 

The space between the arms measures 5 1/8 inches. Since most blade are 5 inches, this dont leave a lot of room to replace blades.

Does anybody know of a way to adjust the arms on this particular saw?

Screenshot_20190306-120250_Chrome.jpg

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I may not understand the question, but it is the distance between the clamps that matters.  When you release the tension, the clamp will be lower and the blade is put in, then with the blade in set the tension again.  Been a while since I used a DeWalt so, wait for some more answers,,,, Some of the current DeWalt owners will speak up.

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There are times on this design of saw that when stopped after cutting, the mechanism stops on what I would call a high point. If you do a quick on/off it will move off that high point and the arms will return to where they should. Give that a try. Other than that I have no idea.

 

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Ray, I may be wrong.. but I don't think the saw stopping in a odd position should change the distance between the blade clamps..  I'm thinking more along the lines of the rod that screws into the wedge at the back of the saw needs loosened up to let the upper arm drop down a little lower.. Maybe I'm wrong on that..

Maybe you should raise up and lower the arm down a couple of times to be sure it has dropped down to it's lowest point.. a new saw sometimes has the bolts a little snug and the upper arm doesn't pivot real smooth and easy.. and will take a few hours worth of cutting to get it to sort of loosen up so to speak.. If that doesn't fix it then I would guess you'd need to adjust the rod.. which is underneath the cover where the power switch is.. the rod connects to the lever that you use to adjust the tension..

   

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53 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Ray, I may be wrong.. but I don't think the saw stopping in a odd position should change the distance between the blade clamps..  I'm thinking more along the lines of the rod that screws into the wedge at the back of the saw needs loosened up to let the upper arm drop down a little lower.. Maybe I'm wrong on that..

Maybe you should raise up and lower the arm down a couple of times to be sure it has dropped down to it's lowest point.. a new saw sometimes has the bolts a little snug and the upper arm doesn't pivot real smooth and easy.. and will take a few hours worth of cutting to get it to sort of loosen up so to speak.. If that doesn't fix it then I would guess you'd need to adjust the rod.. which is underneath the cover where the power switch is.. the rod connects to the lever that you use to adjust the tension..

   

You know Kevin, you may very well be right. These saws don't come from the factory with very much in the way of lubrication. When I took mine apart that wedge was pretty dry. I greased the heck out of the entire slide/wedge area with synthetic grease. I also did all the known fixes for the knocking noise that comes from the tension rod. I adjusted the rod. and I filed the plate that covers the rod. All stuff that should be done when taking the saw apart for service. 

 

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Funny this is coming up... My newest DW I can barely clamp the blade due to the gap between clamps being more than usual (compared to my previous 3 DW's).  I just brushed it off and am able to clamp the blade if I'm careful to clamp the top right at the end of the blade.  But sounds like Chuck can't even get his to clamp due to the issue.

Edited by Iguanadon
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8 minutes ago, Iguanadon said:

Funny this is coming up... My newest DW I can barely clamp the blade due to the gap between clamps being more than usual (compared to my previous 3 DW's).  I just brushed it off and am able to clamp the blade if I'm careful to clamp the top right at the end of the blade.  But sounds like Chuck can't even get his to clamp due to the issue.

It'll take you about an hour to do the fix mentioned above. To hell with the warranty.

 

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Just now, octoolguy said:

It'll take you about an hour to do the fix mentioned above. To hell with the warranty.

 

I saw the recommendation above and thought...  "ugh, I'll just live with it."  LOL  I've had to take the top apart before on one of my first saws when the tensioner would max out at 5, so I know exactly what is being described... I just don't feel like doing it, I can clamp blades in for now without too much trouble.  🙂  I have a new Pegas saw on the way, so, screw it. 

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6 minutes ago, Iguanadon said:

I saw the recommendation above and thought...  "ugh, I'll just live with it."  LOL  I've had to take the top apart before on one of my first saws when the tensioner would max out at 5, so I know exactly what is being described... I just don't feel like doing it, I can clamp blades in for now without too much trouble.  🙂  I have a new Pegas saw on the way, so, screw it. 

You're gonna love that new saw. If it's anything like my EX you will have a saw to last for years.

 

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