JimErn Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 I didn't want to derail Kevin's thread on his BM order, but I do have a question for those who have changed the saw they used from one where the head tilts (excaliber, etc) to something like a hegner where the table tilts. I really like the flat table to cut on when doing beveled cuts. And I was wondering, for those do beveled cutting and that have or do change saws how much change it is to adapt to the different style. I keep picturing having to stop the work from sliding while cutting. On another note, Amazon is selling the hegner .......... for more than hegner is selling them! OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 Well, I went the opposite direction. I had a DeWalt and switched to the EX-21. One of the reason's was the tilting head feature of the EX. I've made a few of Carole Rothman's stacked ring bowls, but I didn't really enjoy cutting them on the DeWalt. The EX is soooo much easier for these kind of projects and consequently, my cuts seem to be much more consistent and accurate. I would be loathe to go back to a tilting table saw. Now if one is only tilting the saw a degree or 2, such as for beveled inlay, then I think adapting to a tilting table saw would be relatively easy. However, with stacked ring projects, like Carole Rothman's designs, where the angles can be up to 35 or 40 degrees, cutting on a flat table is a distinct advantage. I would think that if one was accustomed to cutting those kinds of angles on a flat table, it would be very frustrating to cut them on a tilting table. JimErn and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 I did some bevel cutting years ago on my DeWalt.. even just a few degrees I didn't like doing it.. I've also recently tried bevel cutting on my Excalibur.. IF I were to do much bevel cutting.. I wouldn't be without a Excalibur... Not just because of the tilting head.. but the mechanism to do the angles is very simple and easy to get a angle spot on with the gear drive deal... I've heard that the Seyco saw is lacking the gear mechanism.. and is a pain in the neck to adjust compared to the gear mechanisms the Ex saws have.. I don't know how this setup is on the new Hawks.. But I cannot stand the tilting mechanism on either of my current Hawks.. the design is pretty crappy.. the table doesn't move freely so you bump it and it either goes too far or not far enough.. real clumsy setup to try to get that perfect angle .. and the knob to adjust it doesn't like to tighten down good on the table to hold it well.. I actually do not and would not move my table once it's set... I like to take care of my equipment.. so when i wax the table I don't stop there.. I wax the whole saw including the stands.. I often wondered if this is why it's hard to get the table to stay once it's set.. you don't dare bump or put too much pressure on one side or the other or it'll move the table out of whack.. I fixed mine by roughing up the washer between the knob and the mechanism so it holds pretty well now.. but I'm never moving it again on these saws, LOL OCtoolguy and JimErn 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 (edited) I can not add any valuable data on this because I have not used the EX with the tilting head or any saw with a tilting head so can not compare. I have done many projects on both my RBI and Hegner and in fact my Hegner is set up to a tilt that I leave because I like cutting the angles on it. I have no problem using the flat table and yes my angles are not as severe as some are doing and that maybe a reason I find no problem. I use to do a ton of those fold down baskets for many years. Man my Hegner got a work out then and not one was a problem because just like anything you do you get the feel for it and it becomes second nature. The concept seems to be a good one with the tilting head but why has not many other saws gone to that design?? I suggest if you have the opportunity to test drive both ways would be the best way to make that decision. Kevin brings up the point about tables moving by just bumping, well that is a thing with every saw on the market because you are pivoting on one center point. If the carriage has 2 points of contact then you have a better chance of holding that table true. That is why you do not stack weighted items on a scrollsaw table. especially to one side. I have no problem with my RBI saws locking down or returning to 90 degrees after I have cut a tilted project. But I am aware of the top be able to get out of alignment. The same thing with the Dewalt or Hegner. Edited March 8, 2019 by JTTHECLOCKMAN OCtoolguy and JimErn 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 Seems I remember that Steve Good made a cranking device for tilting the head of his Seyco saw. Has anyone made one or did I dream this...? I haven't tried any bevel cuts yet and one of the reasons is I think I am not going to like the Seyco way of tilting the table verses the Excalibur. I do love the big table on my Seyco though.... OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted March 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 32 minutes ago, Scrappile said: I do love the big table on my Seyco though.... I put a 1/8 MDF overlay on my EX-21 to cover the vacuum holes, fret work kept dropping and hanging, wouldn't take much to make that bigger. That 1/8th does no interfere with the reverse part of the blade. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 3 minutes ago, JimErn said: I put a 1/8 MDF overlay on my EX-21 to cover the vacuum holes, fret work kept dropping and hanging, wouldn't take much to make that bigger. That 1/8th does no interfere with the reverse part of the blade. I used some 1/8" masonite. Made my Hegner table a little bigger. I also covered the Seyco table with it so I could have it rigged for zero clearance inserts. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 3 hours ago, Scrappile said: Seems I remember that Steve Good made a cranking device for tilting the head of his Seyco saw. Has anyone made one or did I dream this...? I haven't tried any bevel cuts yet and one of the reasons is I think I am not going to like the Seyco way of tilting the table verses the Excalibur. I do love the big table on my Seyco though.... Yes Steve did come up with a upgrade to the seyco table tilt. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 Just found it on his YouTube channel a little while ago. Look like pretty simple make. I may try it of these days. OCtoolguy and kmmcrafts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teachnlearn Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 (edited) One adaption I have seen for drill press and table saws are precut base angles with a clamp, then the base is slide around on a flat level surface and the work is angled. Keeps from going back and forth on angling the table. Probably most of the people on the board with complete wood shops have read or heard of this. RJF Edited March 8, 2019 by teachnlearn OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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