Rockytime Posted April 8, 2019 Report Posted April 8, 2019 The only thing I dislike about my Hawk is the table surface. It is cast aluminum and finished by running it through a large drum sander. Nothing wrong with the finish except I use a paste wax on it but does not seem to make much difference. I happened to find a rattle can of Amway Wonder Mist. It is just a silicone spray. The can has followed us for 55 years. Can is a bit rusty but still sprays. A very light spray made all the difference. Just wondering if anyone else uses a similar product. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
dgman Posted April 8, 2019 Report Posted April 8, 2019 It is never advised to use silicone on any woodworking tool surface as the silicone can interfere with some finishes. tomsteve, WayneMahler, John B and 1 other 3 1 Quote
kmmcrafts Posted April 8, 2019 Report Posted April 8, 2019 Think it was Randy ( Hotshot ) that sanded his down to a real fine sandpaper and then buffed it out like you would a car with buffing compound.. looked like a mirror finish... I've done the same thing but without doing the sanding.. I don't want a mirror.. Might see my reflection and mess me up, LOL.. Ideally the sanding marks gives less surface drag so it should be easier spinning than a complete flat surface.. Anyway any new to me saw I use a my buffing wheel and compound on the table to clean them up good.. then I use Johnson paste wax periodically after that.. My dewalt one time had got something on it.. believe it was some sap from cutting something that wasn't completely dried out but don't now that to be a fact.. anyway I ended up having to run the buffer on it again because the paste wax just wasn't getting it good.. it'd help but quickly need waxed again.. like about every other day.. after buffing and the paste wax.. it was fine again.. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted April 8, 2019 Report Posted April 8, 2019 I just went through this with Hawk I bought. I used a very flat sanding block with 220 grit paper. It came out great. I waxed it with Johnson's and it is very smooth and slick. No sanding marks or swirls. RabidAlien and WayneMahler 2 Quote
Rockytime Posted April 8, 2019 Author Report Posted April 8, 2019 6 minutes ago, octoolguy said: I just went through this with Hawk I bought. I used a very flat sanding block with 220 grit paper. It came out great. I waxed it with Johnson's and it is very smooth and slick. No sanding marks or swirls. I'm going to do that. Thanks OCtoolguy and RabidAlien 2 Quote
teachnlearn Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 This should cover it. RJF Buffing_Compounds_And_Wheels_Selection_Guide.pdf OCtoolguy 1 Quote
kmmcrafts Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 17 minutes ago, teachnlearn said: This should cover it. RJF Buffing_Compounds_And_Wheels_Selection_Guide.pdf I've never seen buffing wheels like that.. but then they wouldn't be too practical for the autobody world.. This is what I have.. and I just use the medium buffing compound that I would use on cars.. Since I have this stuff on hand.. it's what I use.. The wool pads are plenty good for this purpose.. since I not looking to make a mirror, lol https://www.ideaautorepair.com/product/6131/equipment-tools-hand-specialty-tools?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4qvlBRDiARIsAHme6osSFtd7AFwRaye8134M0oBEYr7Efw9wcGwkDPvOSd1OmZkGKJKdQXwaAicOEALw_wcB Quote
OCtoolguy Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 6 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said: I've never seen buffing wheels like that.. but then they wouldn't be too practical for the autobody world.. This is what I have.. and I just use the medium buffing compound that I would use on cars.. Since I have this stuff on hand.. it's what I use.. The wool pads are plenty good for this purpose.. since I not looking to make a mirror, lol https://www.ideaautorepair.com/product/6131/equipment-tools-hand-specialty-tools?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4qvlBRDiARIsAHme6osSFtd7AFwRaye8134M0oBEYr7Efw9wcGwkDPvOSd1OmZkGKJKdQXwaAicOEALw_wcB Kevin, I can't begin to tell you how many of those I've sold. kmmcrafts 1 Quote
teachnlearn Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 11 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said: I've never seen buffing wheels like that.. but then they wouldn't be too practical for the autobody world.. This is what I have.. and I just use the medium buffing compound that I would use on cars.. Since I have this stuff on hand.. it's what I use.. The wool pads are plenty good for this purpose.. since I not looking to make a mirror, lol https://www.ideaautorepair.com/product/6131/equipment-tools-hand-specialty-tools?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4qvlBRDiARIsAHme6osSFtd7AFwRaye8134M0oBEYr7Efw9wcGwkDPvOSd1OmZkGKJKdQXwaAicOEALw_wcB The autobody and car stuff could probably be found locally. I come from a world of science labs and industrial labs. The article works on reference to compounds for the material and reference to type wheel. I buffed a collection of pennies dated from the first year of marriage to 50th Anniversary with their wedding picture in the middle. All the pennies were in date order mounted in fostner holes then clear coated. Gave it to inlaws. RJF kmmcrafts and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
kmmcrafts Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, octoolguy said: Kevin, I can't begin to tell you how many of those I've sold. I can't tell you how many of those I went through in the business... well not exactly like the one shown.. I first started buying the air powered ones.. they are much nicer because of better speed control on certain contours of a car body.. if not careful that electric one will burn the paint right off a edge on a car LOL.. No need to ask how I learn that.. LOL.. Took a long time to get used to the electric ones.. they don't loose power on some heavy buffing like the air ones do.. and the air ones you can make then just barely spin.. Electric spins lowest I think was 750 or 1000 RPM ? anyway.. certainly take getting used to between the air and electric.. Edited April 9, 2019 by kmmcrafts OCtoolguy 1 Quote
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 I put a piece of 1/4" acrylic on mine to make the surface a little larger and once in a blue mood will hit with some wood polish. But I like to have a little drag to better control the piece. Works for me. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
teachnlearn Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said: I can't tell you how many of those I went through in the business... well not exactly like the one shown.. I first started buying the air powered ones.. they are much nicer because of better speed control on certain contours of a car body.. if not careful that electric one will burn the paint right off a edge on a car LOL.. No need to ask how I learn that.. LOL.. Took a long time to get used to the electric ones.. they don't loose power on some heavy buffing like the air ones do.. and the air ones you can make then just barely spin.. Electric spins lowest I think was 750 or 1000 RPM ? anyway.. certainly take getting used to between the air and electric.. You mention auto body several times, I'm surprised you don't detail cars every once in a while. RJF OCtoolguy 1 Quote
kmmcrafts Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 5 hours ago, teachnlearn said: You mention auto body several times, I'm surprised you don't detail cars every once in a while. RJF Not practical for where I live.. not many people want to drive out to the boonies to have a car detailed... I also live 1/2 mile off the main road on a gravel road.. I have all the equipment to do detailing.. well most of it anyway.. special high end carpet / seat shampoo machine etc.. but..as I said.. not real practical.. once they get to the main road after a detail.. it's need detailed again... teachnlearn and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
Phantom Scroller Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 (edited) I use this on all my saw surfaces and my house window hinges man they fly open and my roller blinds great stuff and cheap. Roly https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lubricants/7577134/ Edited April 9, 2019 by Phantom Scroller teachnlearn, Scrappile and OCtoolguy 2 1 Quote
Chunkthekid Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 My Dewalt table was looking pretty rough, so I decided I would clean it up while I was cleaning up my new(old) jointer. Sanded it down to 400 grit, then a paste wax polish. It looks and slides better than it did when I got it new. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
kmmcrafts Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 8 minutes ago, Phantom Scroller said: I use this on all my saw surfaces and my house window hinges man they fly open and my roller blinds great stuff and cheap. Roly https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lubricants/7577134/ I've seen that stuff when I was looking for a dry lube for my Hawk saw lubrication.. they recommend a dry lube but that is all they say.. so I never knew what exactly to use.. I found a similar product but made by P.B. I think my next trip to town I'll get a can of this since my other can is about gone.. I ended up liking the stuff so well I use it on about everything from door hinges, brake cables on bicycles to windows as you say.. LOL Amazing how much the stuff works.. I went through most of the can in one day, LOL OCtoolguy, Phantom Scroller and Scrappile 1 1 1 Quote
teachnlearn Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 4 hours ago, Phantom Scroller said: I use this on all my saw surfaces and my house window hinges man they fly open and my roller blinds great stuff and cheap. Roly https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/lubricants/7577134/ Took a few cut and pastes to find it in the US. Will put it on a future list. RJF https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/handle-buy-box/ref=dp_start-bbf_1_glance Phantom Scroller, OCtoolguy and Joe W. 3 Quote
Bill WIlson Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 All I've ever used was furniture paste wax. Simple, easy, cheap and readily available at a Big Box near you. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Scrappile Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 I've using Johnson's out of the same can for probably 20 years now. Amazing how long it lasts. I don't live where there is high humidity which helps on the rust area, I manly wax for a slick surface. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 51 minutes ago, Scrappile said: I've using Johnson's out of the same can for probably 20 years now. Amazing how long it lasts. I don't live where there is high humidity which helps on the rust area, I manly wax for a slick surface. Around the ocean, a person can't stand still for fear of corrosion. I can feel it happening right now. Scrappile and kmmcrafts 2 Quote
Blaughn Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 I use Glidecote V207501 Woodworking Aerosol Lubricant on all of the metal surfaces in my shop. It works well on the powder-coat surface of the Excalibur as well. Quote
teachnlearn Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 1 hour ago, octoolguy said: Around the ocean, a person can't stand still for fear of corrosion. I can feel it happening right now. I spent time in Bremerton WA, grinding the deck surface of an Aircraft Carrier. Before we could coat it the next day it was rusted. We were ordered to grind the rust, which was back the next day, and on and on, til finally they hired a firm to grind and coat the deck. Rained every day. RJF 2 OCtoolguy 1 Quote
John B Posted April 9, 2019 Report Posted April 9, 2019 I fitted 400g emery paper to a 1/4 sheet sander gave the table a once over and now every month or so give them a buffing with bee's wax. Table saw, band saw, and scroll saw. No chance of contaminates interfering with any polish I wish to use on the project and makes the tables pretty slick. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted April 10, 2019 Report Posted April 10, 2019 2 hours ago, teachnlearn said: I don't suppose that anybody ever came up with the idea of scraping the rust off a small area and then painting it? And then most to another small spot. There is the right way, the wrong way, and the "military" way. Every time. John B 1 Quote
teachnlearn Posted April 10, 2019 Report Posted April 10, 2019 4 minutes ago, octoolguy said: I don't suppose that anybody ever came up with the idea of scraping the rust off a small area and then painting it? And then most to another small spot. There is the right way, the wrong way, and the "military" way. Every time. OH NO! We had to all get air grinders, THEN when the entire deck was ground down and checked by an Officer we were to go get the grit coating. If you can imagine the size of the top of an aircraft carrier, we worked with a hand grinder on our knees, about 10 enlisted. I think my back and knees are shot from weeks of kneeling on a steel deck. RJF OCtoolguy 1 Quote
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