How I Make My Beeswax / Mineral Oil Finish

[kmmcrafts]

I made this video today to demonstrate how I make my finish since I get asked quite often how I make it.. This should give a good idea..

Now excuse the poor quality video.. first video I've done and I was trying to do everything with one hand.. LOL

https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using  

[teachnlearn]

Create a 'double boiler'. Put water in a pan and put another pan, metal bowl over that pan. The heated water will heat the pan. Don't have to boil the water, just simmer. You can control the heat by putting the bowl on and off the pan. This cooking technique is used for melting chocolate, cooking eggs, and other recipes that more heat control is needed. You will separate the mixture from the flame and have more control over it.

Beeswax;

Beeswax has a relatively low melting point range of 62 to 64 °C (144 to 147 °F). If beeswax is heated above 85 °C (185 °F) discoloration occurs. The flash point of beeswax is 204.4 °C (400 °F).

Your safe in the 150 F range, since beeswax will flash/ burn at 204, so you have another 50-degree range for it to burn. Looking at the melting point, it's just melting at 147, so you have to get close to 150 to get it to melt.  Watch the flame, if you do it often, get a hotplate, which can be cheap and won't have a flame to ignite the mixture.

https://www.amazon.com/Techwood-Portable-Single-Burner-Infrared/dp/B07H9PTSW8/ref=sr_1_4?ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-org00-win10-dsk00-nomod-us000-gatwy-feature-SEARC&keywords=electric+hotplate&qid=1555114160&s=gateway&sr=8-4

 

Nice first video. RJF

Edited April 13, 2019 by teachnlearn

[Scrappile]

Thanks for the video, Kevin.  I'm going to give that a try one of these days.  You didn't give you thought on the pellet wax after using it for the first time.  Least I got the impression this was your first time using it.  Does your mixture smell good?  I love the smell of honey... I love honey, eat some almost daily.

[teachnlearn]

2 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Thanks for the video, Kevin.  I'm going to give that a try one of these days.  You didn't give you thought on the pellet wax after using it for the first time.  Least I got the impression this was your first time using it.  Does your mixture smell good?  I love the smell of honey... I love honey, eat some almost daily.

Look at essential oils. Since this is an oil based recipe, the oils will mix. There are water based also. RJF

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=essential+oils&crid=3SK7FRDVMKPNT&sprefix=essentail+%2Caps%2C354&ref=nb_sb_ss_sc_1_10

[kmmcrafts]

39 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Thanks for the video, Kevin.  I'm going to give that a try one of these days.  You didn't give you thought on the pellet wax after using it for the first time.  Least I got the impression this was your first time using it.  Does your mixture smell good?  I love the smell of honey... I love honey, eat some almost daily.

Baby oil is nothing more than mineral oil..with the signature baby smell added... IF you like that smell.. As for selling the products with the scent added.. that would probably be a turn off to customers and some people are very sensitive to some smell..

The pellet beeswax seemed to melt much faster than the block type I had been using... The wax does have a nice smell to it.. This wax has a yellow tint to it and the mix is sort of yellow colored.. I'm wondering what effect this might have on my projects.. as the block wax was a clear color and didn't have as nice a smell to it..but it's all I've used in the past.. This stuff last quite a long time.. that block I bought was a 5lb block that i bought maybe 5-6 years ago.. I normally make this about 2-3 times a year now.. when i first started was only about once a year or close to that..

I'll try to do another short video on how I apply it and the process of heating it to melt into the wood pores etc.. also the next video will show the consistency of the wax mix after it sets up.. 

[jollyred]

I have made a similar mix, and like it a lot for some things.  However, I don't have an oven or hot plate in my shop.  What I do have is an old steam iron I got to put on hot melt edge banding.  I made a frame to hold it upside down, and use a metal pet food bowl to melt the wax.  Works pretty good and I don't get in trouble with the wife for doing this sort of thing in "her" kitchen.

Tom Wilson

[teachnlearn]

3 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I made this video today to demonstrate how I make my finish since I get asked quite often how I make it.. This should give a good idea..

Now excuse the poor quality video.. first video I've done and I was trying to do everything with one hand.. LOL

https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using  

Cataloging your recipe and looked up cutting board oil and beeswax. The listing shows the granules. They are white and yellow granules. I think you got the one with a yellow dye, Don't know what that will do on the finish. This IS a white one too. RJF

https://www.amazon.com/Sky-Organics-Organic-Pesticides-Chemicals/dp/B01LYMZK4V/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

[Scrappile]

When I want to do something like make this stuff, I head to Goodwill to get pots and pans... Cheap stuff.  I know better than to use the wife's pans.... or her stove.   I do have a hot plate, not sure how well I can regulate the heat, i will have to try it.

[teachnlearn]

10 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

When I want to do something like make this stuff, I head to Goodwill to get pots and pans... Cheap stuff.  I know better than to use the wife's pans.... or her stove.   I do have a hot plate, not sure how well I can regulate the heat, i will have to try it.

Use my posted method of a double boiler and you can't get too hot. Just find a pan/ metal bowl that fits on top of a pan. Use hot pads, gloves, plyers to remove to top bowl/ pan. The thermometer can lay in the top pan since it won't touch the heat. Can disregard keeping the thermometer from touching the pan.  I'm converting a cargo trailer to an RV and looked at cooking the main electric cooking everyone is using is an inductive cooktop. Cheap works by plugging in, the heat goes directly to the pan with no heat loss. RJF

Changed the bottom link, cheaper/ more popular. RJF

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IA3H8QM/ref=psdc_13838451_t1_B07H9PTSW8

Edited April 13, 2019 by teachnlearn

[kmmcrafts]

I've only been in trouble with the wife two times about using the stove and oven.. first time was I had some wheels I just painted and I wanted to "bake" the paint.. oven seemed like a good idea.. however the smell in the house wasn't too pleasing.. this was back in my younger... maybe not so smart days.. and pretty newly married 

The second time wasn't all that long ago and she actually encouraged me to try it.. I made thermal modified lumber.. Took a 1 x 6 x 18 inch poplar board and put it in the oven on low heat ( around 200 - 250.. and left it in for a couple hours.. the poplar came out looking almost as dark as a lighter shade of Walnut.. works awesome.. just don't do the dumb thing i did and cut it to the exact size ... because who knew it'd shrink more in the oven, LOL

I did get the pan at a garage sale that I use.. the cheese grader too.. and the thermometer is new but only specifically used for this.. That all said though.. it all washes off pretty good plus it is food grade mineral oil and natural beeswax so.. most likely not something that'd be harmful.. She has actually used her stove to make it for me during a real busy time a couple years ago.. so she better not say anything to me about making it myself... and yes.. I'd still say " okay sorry dear, yes dear... LOL 

 

[kmmcrafts]

15 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

When I want to do something like make this stuff, I head to Goodwill to get pots and pans... Cheap stuff.  I know better than to use the wife's pans.... or her stove.   I do have a hot plate, not sure how well I can regulate the heat, i will have to try it.

I don't really know what the melting temp of the beeswax is.. but my wax was about all melted before I turned off the burner.. right about 130-140. so you'd be pretty safe probably shutting off the burner at 120.. the hot plate I think would retain the heat for a bit after shutting it down.. Many times I've turned it off well before the 150 and if I kept mixing it it'd melt down with the temp.. You can always turn it back on.. if needed..    

[tgiro]

Great video Kevin - thanks for sharing. I use an Orange oil/beeswax mix, but I buy it.

[Scrappile]

How long does a finish like this last?  What is the shelf life of the mixture.  Does it cause item for collect dust more than a dried spray finish?  How do you get it into tight areas where you have cut things out? 

[kmmcrafts]

42 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

How long does a finish like this last?  What is the shelf life of the mixture.  Does it cause item for collect dust more than a dried spray finish?  How do you get it into tight areas where you have cut things out? 

I don't know how long this last.. I have pieces here from 5-8 years ago that still seem to look the same as they always did.. I don't notice any difference with collecting dust from the Danish oil mix that I use. No idea on shelf live.. I've never had any around more than a year before I had to make another batch... I apply with acid brushes.. you can get a glob of it on the brush and cram it into the small fret cutouts.. when the piece is covered I let it set for at least a couple hours.. most times I like to leave it for a day.. IF you have some fret areas that you can't get the brush into you can heat the wax to a liquid and run it into the areas better.. I just glob it into the small cutout then my last process which is heating the piece with a hairdryer to melt the wax mix into all the small areas and wipe off excess with paper towels..

Being in the autobody industry for many years and having decent spray paint skill set.. I've never been satisfied with spray finishes on fretwork.. It's impossible to do a "Good" even coat of spray on the fretwork cutouts and have the flat surface have the same depth of finish.. but I have a trained eye for finishes and evenness of the finish etc and it's actually a peeve of mine with finishes on most anything, LOL The untrained eye as in most of the people will never see this.. but I do and it bugs the crap outta me.. so I do not spray fretwork pieces.. Don't like brushed pieces either cause of the brush marks. even those nice smooth foam brush finishes.. Its the autobody professions fault to corrupt me this way  So I finish with Danish oil or this wax mix.. which gives the most natural look in all of the cutouts etc..

https://www.harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-in-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-61880.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Higher+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+(1)+Price+<%2410|61880&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sv447GKkW|pcrid|278978017105|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|61880|&pgrid=56296736066&ptaid=aud-446108146723:pla-297147218149&pcid=1458484684&gclid=CjwKCAjwkcblBRB_EiwAFmfyy_vGLDj9sZtCbMty1eA2Rsn2Ul7QOAEXNZyIX91Qt_l5rEkFEnWJHxoCBk4QAvD_BwE

     

[Scrappile]

Thanks, good info.  Now I know you hate everything I have ever posted!!  Yes, I do need to go to HF and get some of the brushes.  I use to have a bunch and used them all up.  The come in handy for many things.

[teachnlearn]

5 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I don't know how long this last.. I have pieces here from 5-8 years ago that still seem to look the same as they always did.. I don't notice any difference with collecting dust from the Danish oil mix that I use. No idea on shelf live.. I've never had any around more than a year before I had to make another batch... I apply with acid brushes.. you can get a glob of it on the brush and cram it into the small fret cutouts.. when the piece is covered I let it set for at least a couple hours.. most times I like to leave it for a day.. IF you have some fret areas that you can't get the brush into you can heat the wax to a liquid and run it into the areas better.. I just glob it into the small cutout then my last process which is heating the piece with a hairdryer to melt the wax mix into all the small areas and wipe off excess with paper towels..

Being in the autobody industry for many years and having decent spray paint skill set.. I've never been satisfied with spray finishes on fretwork.. It's impossible to do a "Good" even coat of spray on the fretwork cutouts and have the flat surface have the same depth of finish.. but I have a trained eye for finishes and evenness of the finish etc and it's actually a peeve of mine with finishes on most anything, LOL The untrained eye as in most of the people will never see this.. but I do and it bugs the crap outta me.. so I do not spray fretwork pieces.. Don't like brushed pieces either cause of the brush marks. even those nice smooth foam brush finishes.. Its the autobody professions fault to corrupt me this way  So I finish with Danish oil or this wax mix.. which gives the most natural look in all of the cutouts etc..

https://www.harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-in-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-61880.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Higher+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+(1)+Price+<%2410|61880&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sv447GKkW|pcrid|278978017105|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|61880|&pgrid=56296736066&ptaid=aud-446108146723:pla-297147218149&pcid=1458484684&gclid=CjwKCAjwkcblBRB_EiwAFmfyy_vGLDj9sZtCbMty1eA2Rsn2Ul7QOAEXNZyIX91Qt_l5rEkFEnWJHxoCBk4QAvD_BwE

     

The one thing most people don't do on finishes is sanding well before and in between coats. The brush marks would be sanded out. As far as how high to go on grit is an internet forum topic. Some cut off at 220, 400 and there are those that feel they haven't gotten a good finish till they reach 6000. Brush marks are also dependant on the brush. Artist and house painters wouldn't buy a cheap brush cause it shows in the work.

I became interested in drawing, sketch from the days when we had to use drafting boards, or sketch out an idea. I have studied and dabbled in sketching, watercolors, and airbrush. I've also been one of those kids that took everything apart to see how it works, watch home show and subscribed to Popular Mechanics from a young age, then woodworking mag. When I returned to doing scrollsaw patterns, I have had to start studying and playing with Inkscape and Gimp.  Since woodworking is a craft and trade, the ideas and information is vast and goes back years. The above ideas are from my own work, mixed with working in the trades and extensive reading, tv, and internet.  Brush marks in the finish is a constant topic I've seen from forums and magazines and even tv wood shows. No one wants their finish ruined on a new dining table or cabinet. The viscosity of the finish or 'thickness' is even debated since a thicker finish will spread less leaving brush marks. Thin the finish, don't thin it? Use a throwaway brush, use a good brush, use a foam brush. Most pro recommendations will work for what finish the pro works with.RJF

Edited April 13, 2019 by teachnlearn

[teachnlearn]

s

[kmmcrafts]

6 minutes ago, teachnlearn said:

The one thing most people don't do on finishes is sanding well before and in between coats. The brush marks would be sanded out. As far as how high to go on grit is an internet forum topic. Some cut off at 220, 400 and there are those that feel they haven't gotten a good finish till they reach 6000. Brush marks are also dependant on the brush. Artist and house painters wouldn't buy a cheap brush cause it shows in the work.

I became interested in drawing, sketch from the days when we had to use drafting boards, or sketch out an idea. I have studied and dabbled in sketching, watercolors, and airbrush. I've also been one of those kids that took everything apart to see how it works, watch home show and subscribed to Popular Mechanics from a young age, then woodworking mag. When I returned to doing scrollsaw patterns, I have had to start studying and playing with Inkscape and Gimp.  Since woodworking is a craft and trade, the ideas and information is vast and goes back years. The above ideas are from my own work, mixed with working in the trades and extensive reading, tv, and internet.  Brush marks in the finish is a constant topic I've seen from forums and magazines and even tv wood shows. No one wants their finish ruined on a new dining table or cabinet. The viscosity of the finish or 'thickness' is even debated since a thicker finish will spread less leaving brush marks. Thin the finish, don't thin it? Use a throwaway brush, use a good brush, use a foam brush. Most pro recommendations will work for what finish the pro works with.RJF

Yeah, sanding a surface to get a nice look is easy to achieve.. sanding the fretwork not so much fun.. I understand what you are saying and just trying to put some info out there for the others.. I have no interest for sanding out the fretwork pieces to get a nice finish in all those cutouts when just applying the wax and mineral oil works wonders on the wood.. 

Something I haven't mentioned yet is the fact that the beeswax sort of fills in the fine pores of the wood and give it a nice natural sheen that I haven't been able to achieve with any other finish's.. I realize the finish isn't going to be for everyone.. nor is everyone else's finish going to be for me.. Even the Danish oil finish that many use including me.. leaves the fret work parts looking sort of dry or rough looking unless you sand these areas with real fine sand paper then they look much better.. where as the wax as I said sort of smooths out the end grain look.. sure I can sand the outside end grain edges.. and use a 0/2 blade to cut the frets for a smoother finish look and feel.. but the wax does it all for me and is what works for me..  

As for paint's on cars.. rough spots and surface defects many times can be corrected with cutting the paint with 1000-3000 grit wet /dry paper using a drop or two of dish soap in the bucket of water.. then after the flaw is sanded out you can go through the different grades of buffing compounds and wool pads to foam pads to achieve a mirror like finish..  The process can be done on some of the wood finishes as well.. but what a job it would be to get this achieved in the fretwork cutouts..  

[teachnlearn]

One shop home tool I got years ago has been a great home, workshop, craft tool. That's a Dremel. Between drilling fine holes, 'A given on circuit boards to put in electronics', sanding, grinding, etching, even cutting. They have a paper cutting wheel that shreds easily, I got an aftermarket disk cutter. We have a car top case for groceries, cause our wheelchairs to fill the back. Some idiot filled the mini padlock keyholes. Strung an electric cord outside and cut the mini padlock off in seconds.  Used it for buffins small metal, jewelry and grinding a car part to fit. Have a mount for it, so I can hold the work like fretwork and sand in small spots. Been a great tool.

Another tool is an oscillating cutter.  Rockler makes one that is universal, so any other brand fits. Fast smooth cutting and sanding in spots. RJF

Edited April 13, 2019 by teachnlearn

[Gonzo]

Interesting thread. Thanks Kevin for th video.  I like trying different types of finishes. I'll have to give this a try.  

[Phantom Scroller]

I make my own beeswax as well I have a giant block of wax from my local honey maker and grate it and I use baby oil in a old bean tin in a saucepan of water works a treat love the smell. Roly  

[kmmcrafts]

I just wanted to update that the "yellow " colored pellet wax is much softer than the white colored block wax I had been using.. The yellow wax has a nice beeswax smell to it.. easier to spread as it's softer.. seems to soak into the wood better as well.. I'll more likely be using this wax from now on.. 

[Scrappile]

Does it give an amber color to the wood?

[kmmcrafts]

2 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Does it give an amber color to the wood?

I didn't notice any difference, but I was using it on Cherry.. it might change more with a lighter colored wood ?  

[Dave Monk]

55 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I just wanted to update that the "yellow " colored pellet wax is much softer than the white colored block wax I had been using.. The yellow wax has a nice beeswax smell to it.. easier to spread as it's softer.. seems to soak into the wood better as well.. I'll more likely be using this wax from now on.. 

Kevin, How would it work on puzzle pieces? Would it be to much work?