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7- 1/4" Miter Saw


Rockytime

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A very interesting thread. I too would like to make accurate angle cuts. And reading this thread got me thinking. So I started looking yesterday. My DeWalt mitre saw is awesome, but not for smaller pieces. I did find a mitre box from Lee Valley, it's a Nobex. Looks real nice. Went on Craigslist, found one locally, pondered buying, decided to go for it. It was sold! Bummer!  Oh well, will have to buy new. 

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Okay, good thread, but the miter is not the hardest part for me.  It is gluing.  You can cut a perfect 45° miter, but it won't be perfect if it is not glued squarely.  I have a couple, maybe three gluing jigs.  The last one I made does the best job, but it is cumbersome to set up.  Okay for me because I may make 5 or 6 frames a year, but if I were to do more I would want something easier to set up. My current one is similar to this.

x3SLJEr.jpg

The other part is fastening the picture into the frame.  In the past I have always used little nails, and it looks pretty "tacky" (get it?) to me.   Recently I purchased a Logan Picture frame tool.  It works great.

OdMw5JD.jpg

Edited by Scrappile
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28 minutes ago, Gonzo said:

Interesting jig ya got there Scrappile. I like it. Did you make it?  And my apologies Rockytime for hi-jacking your thread. 

Yes, very sorry Les, I did kinda lost site of the reason for this thread.  Just let me post the plans I used for my framing jig and I will bow out.  I got the plans from this site.  They have some good plans there:

http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/adjustable-4-corner-framing-clamp-plan.html

Adjustable 4 corner framing clamp plan.pdf

Edited by Scrappile
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I use belt straps and have several versions depending how large the frame is. I also agree the lengths must be exact for good tight joints. Stop blocks work well when cutting. I use my tablesaw. It is the most accurate saw in a workshop by far and that should be anyones workshop. Many jigs can be made to fit it and make things so much easier. So for me the tablesaw (well tuned) is the best tool in a workshop hands down. 

Many versions of these out there and they basically all work the same way.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Rapid-Corner-Clamp-Band-Strap-4-Jaws-For-Picture-Frame-Holder-Woodworking-Drawer/3028633447?iid=173771235531

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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8 hours ago, Scrappile said:

Yes, very sorry Les, I did kinda lost site of the reason for this thread.  Just let me post the plans I used for my framing jig and I will bow out.  I got the plans from this site.  They have some good plans there:

http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-projects/adjustable-4-corner-framing-clamp-plan.html

Adjustable 4 corner framing clamp plan.pdf 604.01 kB · 3 downloads

Thanks for the web site and pdf. Interesting web site!

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21 hours ago, Rockytime said:

 I'm taking Scrappile's advice. Today I received my saw rails and started making my frame jig for my table saw. The Delrin strips work very smoothly. Tomorrow I'll add the angle strips. The Delrin strip was 48" and had a long curve in it but it worked.

2-20190504_155248.jpg

1-20190504_155217.jpg

I'd suggest, and maybe what you plan, but make your strips out of something like 1" x 2" stock.  that way you can use clamps tp clamp the picture frame stock to.

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2 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

I'd suggest, and maybe what you plan, but make your strips out of something like 1" x 2" stock.  that way you can use clamps to clamp the picture frame stock to.

I just did as you suggested. I also bought toggle clamps from HF this morning. I just nailed the strips lightly to keep in position. Tomorrow I go to ACE for the proper length screws. Then the test to see it it is accurate. I am not a wood worker by any means. I perhaps should have used MDF but I don't like the weight altho it is more impervious to humidit changed. So far the sled slides smoothly.

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16 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

I just did as you suggested. I also bought toggle clamps from HF this morning. I just nailed the strips lightly to keep in position. Tomorrow I go to ACE for the proper length screws. Then the test to see it it is accurate. I am not a wood worker by any means. I perhaps should have used MDF but I don't like the weight altho it is more impervious to humidit changed. So far the sled slides smoothly.

That will also allow you to clamp on stop blocks to make sure your frame pieces are the same length,,,  you can see, i didn't really think things through when i built mine.  maybe some day i will build another.  but mine work good as is.  

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23 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

I just did as you suggested. I also bought toggle clamps from HF this morning. I just nailed the strips lightly to keep in position. Tomorrow I go to ACE for the proper length screws. Then the test to see it it is accurate. I am not a wood worker by any means. I perhaps should have used MDF but I don't like the weight altho it is more impervious to humidit changed. So far the sled slides smoothly.

I don't know if I'm doing something wrong but I can't get screws to hold in MDF. I'll stick to using good plywood.

 

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Just now, octoolguy said:

I don't know if I'm doing something wrong but I can't get screws to hold in MDF. I'll stick to using good plywood.

 

correct, one more con for mdf.  i have drilled a pilot hole then filled it with ca glue to strengthen the screw hole.  that helps.  i have also drilled a larger hole, glued in a dowel the screwed the screw into the dowel....

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I did it. I made my miter sled. Very crude but seems to work. I just used what I had on hand with the exception of the toggle clamps which came from HF. It was somewhat of a struggle as I have a cheap saw with chintzy fence. I always use a framing square to make sure it is square with the table. There are things I will do different should I make another one which I probably won't. I wanted to make a rustic frame so I used a very rough cedar fence stake.  I may never make another as my space is too crowded to work comfortably.

1-20190506_144002.jpg

2-20190506_143946.jpg

3-20190506_150031.jpg

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Proof is in the pudding Les, looks like you got pretty good results on  your frame.  Well done.

Another little tip, You might want to take a little fine sandpaper and adhere it to the jig.  You could put a strip on the fences or even on the base.  This will help prevent the wood from creeping when you push it through the saw.

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