Jump to content
🎄 🎄 🎄 Ornaments For Charity 2024 - 545 FREE Ornament Patterns - NOW AVAILABLE! ×

Reducing accidental drop-out losses


Blaughn

Recommended Posts

There is an old saying "There is never enough time to do it right but always enough time to do it over."  I love designing and scrolling signs and Bible verses in Cherry.  There is nothing more frustrating than losing a drop out well toward the end of the project.  I have learned something that should have been obvious to me.  I share it for those who may enjoy the same subject matter.

When designing the bridges, try to retain the maximum long grain wood structure.  The attached PDF shows script letters (Palace Script font) that have notoriously narrow and fragile bridges that can easily turn your masterpiece into kindling.  The first column is an okay way to build your bridges.  The second is  better with a slight difference that retains more of the long grain in the wood and makes the drop outs just a bit stronger.   By changing the location and angle of the bridge, you retain more of the long grain of the wood a d g o q.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great info, 

I have a dewalt 788. Its throat hole thing is about 3/4 inch. 

have noticed that is where the problems arise. That unsupported area where jiggling will occur.   What i do to adjust for this is I have a deck of playing cards from a casino with a hole in the middle of them. You know the type. 

I put that card over the hole in the table and use some clear packing tape to hold it in place.   Works great,. Not sure where I got the idea but it might be a sue may trick. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, crupiea said:

Great info, 

I have a dewalt 788. Its throat hole thing is about 3/4 inch. 

have noticed that is where the problems arise. That unsupported area where jiggling will occur.   What i do to adjust for this is I have a deck of playing cards from a casino with a hole in the middle of them. You know the type. 

I put that card over the hole in the table and use some clear packing tape to hold it in place.   Works great,. Not sure where I got the idea but it might be a sue may trick. 

I think I heard that trick way back when I first started scrolling by watching Youtube videos. If you don't have playing cards handy, a business card works just as well. Just cut a kerf halfway through it and tape it in place. No hole at all.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another tip is to pay attention to where you place your starting hole and which direction you normally cut in so that you start and end your cut in a not so fragile spot.. Not only that part.. but also pay close attention to grain direction of the wood.. take that into account when drilling these holes for your start finishing points too. and lastly.. The type of blade you use in these fragile type cutouts make a huge difference too.. A reverse tooth blade will make the wood bounce more because it's cutting on the up stroke too.. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

I think I heard that trick way back when I first started scrolling by watching Youtube videos. If you don't have playing cards handy, a business card works just as well. Just cut a kerf halfway through it and tape it in place. No hole at all.

 

I just use my credit / debit card..  Don't use the drivers license.. that one cost money to replace... don't ask how I know this, 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Rockytime said:

That looks pretty cool! I can't do that with an aluminum table.

that's an ex21, I thought it was aluminum too, turns out the magnet works, it is either a coating or the frame work is near enough for the magnetic material

push come to shove,  double sided tape will work to hold it in place too

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a thin piece of 1/8" masonite, about 8" by 10", with a saw slot up the middle.  On the bottom I have put some small magnets and craft foam to hold it in place.  I just slide it on and off as needed.  Saves time over trying to find some card stock and packing tape.  The masonite is waxed and stock slides over it quite easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I inherited my DeWalt788 from my brother who had passed away in 2004. He bought a piece of lexan, and cut it oversized and added wooden blocks around the edge. Then he cut a small hole in the middle for the blade to fit through, once that hole worked open from him using spirals, he cut a small square out and force fit a small piece of wood the same thickness of the lexan. The lexan helps the wood slide or glide on the table making it easier to manipulate the wood. I have replaced the wood several times, ( I have a small sandwich bag that has the scrap inserts. ). When the top gets a little harder to manipulate the wood, I just wax it with car wax, The lexan also helps keep the metal tabletop from oxidizing.

Plus you can decorate it with stickers

20180506_144449.jpg

20180506_144419.jpg

20180506_144428.jpg

20190424_113408.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, koehler788 said:

I inherited my DeWalt788 from my brother who had passed away in 2004. He bought a piece of lexan, and cut it oversized and added wooden blocks around the edge. Then he cut a small hole in the middle for the blade to fit through, once that hole worked open from him using spirals, he cut a small square out and force fit a small piece of wood the same thickness of the lexan. The lexan helps the wood slide or glide on the table making it easier to manipulate the wood. I have replaced the wood several times, ( I have a small sandwich bag that has the scrap inserts. ). When the top gets a little harder to manipulate the wood, I just wax it with car wax, The lexan also helps keep the metal tabletop from oxidizing.

Plus you can decorate it with stickers

20180506_144449.jpg

20180506_144419.jpg

20180506_144428.jpg

20190424_113408.jpg

Off subject but looking at your pics, did you notice any increased vibration when you installed the wood "knobs" on your clamp thumb screws? I did something similar when I had my Dewalt. I tried very hard to make upper and lower wood add-ons identical in size, shape and weight. I had no problems.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, octoolguy said:

Off subject but looking at your pics, did you notice any increased vibration when you installed the wood "knobs" on your clamp thumb screws? I did something similar when I had my Dewalt. I tried very hard to make upper and lower wood add-ons identical in size, shape and weight. I had no problems.

I usually just use those to tighten and remove. I cut them loose enough to slip on and off

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...