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MDF Sled


Rockytime

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I recently made a frame cutting sled for my table saw. While it is fairly accurate there are some things I wish to change. I made it with 1/2" plywood. I'm wondering if I would I would be better off using MDF. It is less prone to change in damp weather although Colorado is basically dry. Downside, MDF is heavier and does not hold screws as well. Anyone have an opinion?

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6 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

I recently made a frame cutting sled for my table saw. While it is fairly accurate there are some things I wish to change. I made it with 1/2" plywood. I'm wondering if I would I would be better off using MDF. It is less prone to change in damp weather although Colorado is basically dry. Downside, MDF is heavier and does not hold screws as well. Anyone have an opinion?

I'm not a fan of MDF as you stated. I made a cutoff sled and the screws are beginning to get loose. I'm going to make a new one out of a good grade of birch plywood.

 

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I have made sleds from both but prefer 3/4" plywood. I do not have the humidity problems you seem to have. But if you do then your tools need protection from rust. What is not keeping accuracy??  If it is the runners then switch to PVC. You can get this in any sizes. I use this for jigs. https://www.rockler.com/uhmw-plastic-jig-stock  You can also buy plastic trim molding in Home Depot or Lowes and get it in sheets or strips. I like to screw the pieces to the plywood and if not movable I will also add some wood glue. 

If your jig is warping and lifting then make from 3/4" and add a fence to both the front and back. This will stabilize it. I make tons of jigs all the time for everything because of accuracy and repeatability and ease. Also helps keep the digits safe. 

Post the jig and tell us where you seem to have a problem. 

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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18 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I have made sleds from both but prefer 3/4" plywood. I do not have the humidity problems you seem to have. But if you do then your tools need protection from rust. What is not keeping accuracy??  If it is the runners then switch to PVC. You can get this in any sizes. I use this for jigs. https://www.rockler.com/uhmw-plastic-jig-stock  You can also buy plastic trim molding in Home Depot or Lowes and get it in sheets or strips. I like to screw the pieces to the plywood and if not movable I will also add some wood glue. 

If your jig is warping and lifting then make from 3/4" and add a fence to both the front and back. This will stabilize it. I make tons of jigs all the time for everything because of accuracy and repeatability and ease. Also helps keep the digits safe. 

Post the jig and tell us where you seem to have a problem. 

I've seen suggestions of using kitchen cutting boards. RJF

https://www.webstaurantstore.com/search/cutting-board-poly.html

 

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Thank you for all the input. I don't have a moisture problem or a rust problem. I wanted to make a different sled because I wanted to make some changes and improvements. I was just wondering about opinions on plywood vs MDF. I perhaps did not make myself clear. I did make the new sled today. I used 1/2" plywood because the sled is only 18 X 18". My table saw is not large so this was the maximum I could use. The runners are like nylon or Delrin type material. The saw runners were ordered from Amazon. I would not do that again. The runners are specifically made for saw runners. However when I received the material it came in as a 6" piece. Unfortunately the material had a bow and it was difficult to keep it straight. I did use the material but the sled is not silky smooth but is usable. For all the frame making I'll do it is adequate. Since I can not create my own hard wood runners accurately I would go with commercial aluminum runners.

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18 hours ago, Rockytime said:

Cutting boards are not 18" long. That is exactly what my runners are made of, a very similar material.

I think you should click my link I posted for cutting boards. I specifically posted a restaurant supplier, which has a whole variety of sizes and thicknesses. If you have a local restaurant supplier you can cut the shipping and have it tomorrow. RJF

Something I will add is having learning cooking, cause we couldn't afford restaurants, I quickly found restaurant suppliers have sturdy inexpensive cooking equipment. They price low cause restaurants have to buy bulk to keep cooking and washing, so its really rare any restaurant owns one pot or one pan, rather 10 pans so when an order is cooked it goes to the dishwasher while another pan hits the stove for another order. Haven't needed a 180 dollar pan. RJF

Edited by teachnlearn
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 I have two cross cut sleds, one for larger stock and one for small parts/pieces. The guides, 2 on each of the sleds are maple.

Here are a couple of pics of an adjustable ripping jig for thin slices of stock. The spring has too much pressure, it needs to be smaller. The plans were from Woodsmith. I'm not sure it was worth the effort, however it's always fun to make anything in the shop.

large cross cut sled 202.jpg

sm cross cut sled 609.jpg

micro adj thin ripping jig 000.jpg

micro adj thin ripping jig 562.jpg

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2 hours ago, Rockytime said:

It would be nice to have room for a high end table saw plus room to finish and assemble. Since I don't I usually take whatever short cut works. I  did finish my sled and it is quite accurate. Messing around making slot rails is time consuming and unproductive for me.

Wow.  How about these for easehttps://store.microjig.com/collections/zeroplay/products/zeroplay-miter-bars-double-pack?fbclid=IwAR0lbHRG-NQIlh_xQJsPe6wQmLesBE7W0e7agZUdOYw1KuD4aeyARsE0e3A

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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