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Duh!!


John B

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Thought I was ready to be put out to pasture this arvo.
Went to replace the blade in the Ex21, fitted it in the top clamp and I'd be buggered it was to short to fit in the lower clamp. 1st thoughts, " I must of grabbed a broken blade" nope it checked out against another from the packet "Maybe the whole damn packet was short?". Nope it was the same size as an old blade I had handy. Well that was just bloody marvellous, something had to be wrong with the saw, it was all I needed. Then I noticed the tension wheel, arm adjusting wheel's white line had disappeared.  Grabbed a tape and sure enough, the front of the arm was 10mm wider apart than then the rear,. I have never had this happen before. The culprit was the Dewalt which I had been using, It's fixed to the same bench. The vibrations must of turned the knob. A sigh of relief, adjust the arms parallel again and of we went. ;)
The air was pretty blue by this time
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The only thing I don't like about the Hawk is the tension lever at the back. The release at the front works just fine. I purchased a 16VS Hawk a couple of years ago. The previous owner had replaced the lever with a 2" 1/4-20 threaded knob. Not knowing anything about the saw I immediately replaced the knob with the proper wedge and lever. Now, on my 220VS Ultra Hawk I do not use the lever adjuster. The idea is to move it via it's cam action to adjust the blade tension and then rely on the quick release on front to change blades. I find that as I'm scrolling the lever does not remain in place. I have stopped using it. I leave the lever completely forward and set the adjustment by just turning the 1/4-20 rod with   my fingers. One set it stays set. I like Hawk's theory with the lever but find it does not work for me. If I am doing something wrong I hope someone will let me know. It is supposed to work but does not for me.

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5 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

The only thing I don't like about the Hawk is the tension lever at the back. The release at the front works just fine. I purchased a 16VS Hawk a couple of years ago. The previous owner had replaced the lever with a 2" 1/4-20 threaded knob. Not knowing anything about the saw I immediately replaced the knob with the proper wedge and lever. Now, on my 220VS Ultra Hawk I do not use the lever adjuster. The idea is to move it via it's cam action to adjust the blade tension and then rely on the quick release on front to change blades. I find that as I'm scrolling the lever does not remain in place. I have stopped using it. I leave the lever completely forward and set the adjustment by just turning the 1/4-20 rod with   my fingers. One set it stays set. I like Hawk's theory with the lever but find it does not work for me. If I am doing something wrong I hope someone will let me know. It is supposed to work but does not for me.

Les, have you ever gone to the Bushton website and watched the video that describes the whole process? I just did it again this morning and it cleared up what I was doing wrong. Now that I understand the whole operation, I no longer have problems with the blades being too short and I am now getting the proper tension on them. I also found out that I was inserting the blades into the holders wrong. Anyway, the lever nearest to the user, (you) works great if everything else is correct. Unless the mechanism is worn out or not functioning correctly. Have you ever put any oil on the lever? The more I find out about this saw and get used to it, the more I like it. I have just finished cutting all the pieces and parts for the jewelry box that I'm making, all on this saw. I love my EX but I'm growing very fond of the Hawk 226 VS Ultra also. I don't see myself ever needing another saw.

 

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4 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

Thanks Ray. I'll check the Bushton video.

I thought I understood the whole thing but after watching the video and listening to somebody here on SSV talk about breaking blades, it all of a sudden hit me that I had the saw adjusted all wrong. No more problems now though.

 

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