Fraiming Failures

[Rockytime]

2 hours ago, dgman said:

Les, I use Aleen’s tacky glue. First, I set up the band clamp so it just snug with the frame. Then I loosen the band clamp just enough to remove one side. I apply glue to both ends of the piece then put it back in the band clamp. Then, remove the opposite frame piece and apply glue the each end. Then replace it into the band clamp, then tighten the clamp. As you are tightening the clamp, make sure everything is aligned. It should only take a few seconds to apply glue to four ends. 

Because I make the frame for each project, I’m not worried about making it any particular standard size. The project gets glued into the frame, so I don’t nail the frame together. The four glued corners and the project glued to the frame make it very strong. 

I make the frame sides wide enough to cut a screw hole slot on the router table to the upper rail. That way I don’t have to use wire and eye screws to mount the picture to the wall.

Here is one I just finished up

I have Aileen's Tacky glue so I'm ready to glue now. Thanks!

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Wood to wood I use Titebond II for all. If making a frame. I dry fit everything and then lay the clamp out just as if it were to go around the frame and glue the frame together and clamp. Takes a couple minutes

[Rockytime]

Got it done. I did use Aileen's Tacky glue. I am out of Tite Bond II and Tite Bond III does not dry clear. The HF clamps worked. I did put a couple of staples on the corners on back as I am not nailing a back, I'm inserting a photo and glass. I discovered I already had a Pilot strap clamp. I like the ratchet much better as it is smaller. The HF ratchet is quite large and clumsy. However, I like the HF corners better. I have so much stuff I forget what I have. I bought the Pilot strap clamp several years ago when I was repairing wood clock cases.

[dgman]

3 hours ago, Sycamore67 said:

Dgman....very nice looking frames.  Can you share how you are cutting the mitered corners.

I use a Dubby sled. It’s sold by In-Line Industries. I bought it a a Woodworking show many years ago. It has a mitre scale on it for accurate mitre cuts, but I leave it permanently set to 45* for mitre cuts. Most importantly it has an adjustable stop to cut exact length cuts.

A homemade jig can work just as well.

Les, the red band clamp you show is what I use. I have two of them.

Edited June 13, 2019 by dgman

[Rockytime]

That's a great looking jig. It makes sense that it only needs one runner. I see all framing jigs made with two runners. I only have one runner on my band saw sled. Thanks for showing. Gives me a new perspective.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

8 minutes ago, dgman said:

I use a Dubby sled. It’s sold by In-Line Industry’s. I bought it a a Woodworking show many years ago. It has a mitre scale on it for accurate mitre cuts, but I leave it permanently set to 45* for mitre cuts. Most importantly it has an adjustable stop to cut exact length cuts.

A homemade jig can work just as well.

Les, the red band clamp you show is what I use. I have two of them.

That is what I use. I have 2 versions of his sled. The first ones had a mylar strip for angles. Now the newer ones has the metal. They work great. Have both sides. 

[OCtoolguy]

7 hours ago, dgman said:

Les, I use Aleen’s tacky glue. First, I set up the band clamp so it just snug with the frame. Then I loosen the band clamp just enough to remove one side. I apply glue to both ends of the piece then put it back in the band clamp. Then, remove the opposite frame piece and apply glue the each end. Then replace it into the band clamp, then tighten the clamp. As you are tightening the clamp, make sure everything is aligned. It should only take a few seconds to apply glue to four ends. 

Because I make the frame for each project, I’m not worried about making it any particular standard size. The project gets glued into the frame, so I don’t nail the frame together. The four glued corners and the project glued to the frame make it very strong. 

I make the frame sides wide enough to cut a screw hole slot on the router table to the upper rail. That way I don’t have to use wire and eye screws to mount the picture to the wall.

Here is one I just finished up

Very nice Dan. Thanks for the play by play.

 

[Bill WIlson]

11 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

Wood to wood I use Titebond II for all. If making a frame. I dry fit everything and then lay the clamp out just as if it were to go around the frame and glue the frame together and clamp. Takes a couple minutes

That's pretty much the same procedure I use.  

[OCtoolguy]

19 hours ago, dgman said:

Les, I use Aleen’s tacky glue. First, I set up the band clamp so it just snug with the frame. Then I loosen the band clamp just enough to remove one side. I apply glue to both ends of the piece then put it back in the band clamp. Then, remove the opposite frame piece and apply glue the each end. Then replace it into the band clamp, then tighten the clamp. As you are tightening the clamp, make sure everything is aligned. It should only take a few seconds to apply glue to four ends. 

Because I make the frame for each project, I’m not worried about making it any particular standard size. The project gets glued into the frame, so I don’t nail the frame together. The four glued corners and the project glued to the frame make it very strong. 

I make the frame sides wide enough to cut a screw hole slot on the router table to the upper rail. That way I don’t have to use wire and eye screws to mount the picture to the wall.

Here is one I just finished up

Dan, I see your "brand" on your work. Where did you get your iron? I want to either make or buy something like that. So far, I have been signing/dating with my soldering station turned up high. It works but I'd like something more controllable.

 

[dgman]

20 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

Dan, I see your "brand" on your work. Where did you get your iron? I want to either make or buy something like that. So far, I have been signing/dating with my soldering station turned up high. It works but I'd like something more controllable.

 

Ray, I have had that branding iron for a long time. I don’t remember where I ordered it from, but you can order them from any Woodworking place like Woodcraft and Rockler.

[OCtoolguy]

50 minutes ago, dgman said:

Ray, I have had that branding iron for a long time. I don’t remember where I ordered it from, but you can order them from any Woodworking place like Woodcraft and Rockler.

Thanks Dan, I'll check them out.

 

[OCtoolguy]

Somewhere in this topic, the words "shooting board" came up and Les had no knowledge of what they were all about. I was just looking over today's email from Instructables and this popped up so I thought I'd forward it here. Maybe others will find something they weren't aware of. 

https://www.instructables.com/id/Making-Using-a-Shooting-Board-and-Mitre-Board/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email

 

[CharleyL]

The way my dad used those old Craftsman picture frame corner clamps was to pre-cut the pieces as close to 45 as he could and then assemble the pieces in the clamp. He would then pass a hand saw down through the mitered gap at the corner, which would trim off the offending cuts, making both pieces match, possibly at slightly off of 45 degrees, but they would then fit closely together and form a tight joint, at least at the accuracy of the clamp. He would then glue and staple the joint together. We had quite a few of my dad's picture frames in our house, all made this way. He had very few woodworking tools, and what he had were cheap, but his picture frames always looked great and stayed together.

I have the MiterSet jigs that I use for setting the miter gauge on my table saw and I make picture frames and segmented circles and arcs using these gauges to get the perfect angles needed for doing this. One of the jigs sets the miter gauge in 1/2 degree increments to .001 degree accuracy. The other produces the same accuracy, but it's for making segmented circles, where the angles for some of these segment cuts need to be in partial degrees to the third decimal place. These MiterSet jigs are very precise, and made like aerospace hardware. Each comes in it's own foam padded blow molded case.  https://miterset.myshopify.com/  I'm just a very satisfied customer.

[Rockytime]

That Miterset looks like a simple answer to a lot of things. Looks to be worth getting. Which do you have or do you have both?

[CharleyL]

On 6/15/2019 at 10:37 PM, Rockytime said:

That Miterset looks like a simple answer to a lot of things. Looks to be worth getting. Which do you have or do you have both?

I have both of them. They are built with the quality of aerospace hardware and each comes in it's own blow molded case. I can get perfect miters in 1/2 degree increments with the one jig and perfect segment cuts for making segmented circles or arcs with the other. When used with a miter gauge that fits the 3/4 X 3/8  miter slot accurately, and using a length stop on the miter gauge for exact length cuts, the results that can be achieved are incredible. My Delta miter saw with lasers isn't as repeatable as I can get when using a MiterSet jig to calibrate my old OEM Delta miter gauge to make the same cuts on my Unisaw. I'm a very happy customer of the MiterSet gauges. 

For the segment gauge, all you have to do is place two steel pins in the holes numbered for the number of segments that you want to make in a circle. Then place your miter gauge in the slot in the MiterSet segments gauge, and against the two pins. Then lock the setting by tightening the miter gauge knob.

For the angle setting MiterSet gauge you do a similar placement of two pins in holes, but then place a stepped bar against them, positioned to get the fine adjustment of the desired angle. Then you place your miter gauge bar in the slot of the gauge and the head of the miter gauge against the stepped bar. Then tighten the knob on your miter gauge and it is set to the needed angle. 

Amazon sells the MiterSet gauges https://miterset.myshopify.com/products/miterset-package-set

Charley

[teachnlearn]

Seen many adaptions of routers using a jig to plane.  A little slower and not for those that plan every day. A quick search should get a group of them. Seen them of wood working shows and youtube. Just a basic router support to hold the router level over the work piece. By passing a straight bit over all the work area the work piece is 'planed'. Good for occasional, can't afford, can't fit a planner. RJF

[CharleyL]

I thought we were talking about accurate miter cuts for picture frame corners.

I have a jig that I built for my large router that's actually a sliding bridge. When planing the surface of firewood or large slabs that won't go through my DeWalt 735 planer, I place it on my bench and attach a board to each side of the bench with the top edges level with each other and just slightly above the piece of wood that will be planed. My big router goes in the bridge with a planning bit in it, and I slide this bridge back and forth, removing layer after layer of the slab until it is completely flat. Back in the 1950's I watch a guy doing this to flatten a butcher block for the neighborhood butcher store. We have much better and more powerful routers today, and even better bits to do this, but the method is the same. It impressed me when I saw him doing it, and many years later I put this lesson to use in my own shop. It works very well, when what you are trying to flatten is way too big for your planer. For flat pieces that are just too wide for my planer, I usually just rip them into one or more pieces, joint the edges and plane the surfaces, then glue them back together, being as careful as possible to keep the surfaces flat. A little sanding is usually necessary, but it's faster than the butcher block method. 

Charley

 

[Sycamore67]

The Miterset is a precision tool.  If you are cutting a lot of segments for turning, it is great.  For setting a 45 angle, a good drafting square will work great and much cheaper.

[Rolf]

Are you sure your square is accurate.  I took one of mine to work years ago and checked it on a surface plate with against the machinist squares in our shop. and it was off.

An easy way to check, out it on a board and with a very sharp pencil flip the square. and draw the line again. The lines should be perfectly on top of each other 

[Sycamore67]

Yes, like any tool, I check for square.  Drafting squares or triangles are typically accurate but good to check.

 

[Wilson142]

On 6/14/2019 at 8:43 AM, CharleyL said:

The way my dad used those old Craftsman picture frame corner clamps was to pre-cut the pieces as close to 45 as he could and then assemble the pieces in the clamp. He would then pass a hand saw down through the mitered gap at the corner, which would trim off the offending cuts, making both pieces match, possibly at slightly off of 45 degrees, but they would then fit closely together and form a tight joint, at least at the accuracy of the clamp. He would then glue and staple the joint together. We had quite a few of my dad's picture frames in our house, all made this way. He had very few woodworking tools, and what he had were cheap, but his picture frames always looked great and stayed together.

 

Sounds like a perfect use for a dozuki saw. I had one that was so thin the kerf was less than .020 thick. It had a spine on the back and was great for dovetails. I need to replace it.