Delta 40-150

[Carl edward]

I bought a used Delta 40-150 scroll saw several years ago. It has served me well but today I noticed  a little smoke come from behind the switch.  I unplugged it and remove the switch cover.  The smoke was coming from a capacitor that was melting from the inside.  It has two red wires.    When I search for parts, all diagrams show no capacitor, the switch is wired directly to the motor.  Can anyone help me with this?  Thanks!!

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

That probably is an earlier version that has a capacitor run motor. You do need the capacitor but probably will not find it easily. Not sure if you have a Grainger near you but they can get it for you. probably an 8uF eight microfarad capacitor. But take it with you wherever you go so they can match it up. You may not get one small enough to fit in the switch compartment so may have to jury rig something on the side to house it safely and run wires into switch compartment. Be careful of capacitors. They store voltage so they can be charged especially if they do not have a discharge resistor on top. Do not get in between the two wires or two terminals. Discharge before working on them. Place a screwdriver across terminals. It will ark. The problem is it may cost about $30. Not sure if you want to fix. But you can check prices. 

[kmmcrafts]

Maybe this will help?

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/231713

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

10 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Maybe this will help?

https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/231713

Wow look at that. I thought I remembered some of this. I am a member there. My memory is not as bad as I thought. What stood out to me was Grainger. Because I have used them in the past and they can get just about anything.

[Carl edward]

Thanks for all the information!!!  You guys have answered my questions and given me some valuable information.  We have a couple of Grainger locations nearby, within an hour anyway.  

[OCtoolguy]

SSV IS THE BOMB!

[Carl edward]

I found a capacitor on eBay for $9.00.  It is identical to the picture posted except it is marked 2mdv6  (no A at the end).  All others specs are the same.  Will that work on this saw? They have the mounting kit too: $6.00. 

[Brianr24]

You may find it locally (granger ) or any plumbing heating/electrical supplier in ur area. Appliance parts supplier also. But Iv had the best luck finding parts by typing in the part # into google.

[Brianr24]

8 minutes ago, Carl edward said:

I found a capacitor on eBay for $9.00.  It is identical to the picture posted except it is marked 2mdv6  (no A at the end).  All others specs are the same.  Will that work on this saw? They have the mounting kit too: $6.00. 

You just posted this as I was typing my previous response. 

I cant say for sure. But if all specs are same and that letter A is just dropped off last digit probably good. But I would try to find out for sure before I went ahead with it. Maybe contact Delta or the manufacturer of the capacitor. If you can’t find anything else  I would try it. Google the part # see what turns up.

[Brianr24]

30 minutes ago, Carl edward said:

I found a capacitor on eBay for $9.00.  It is identical to the picture posted except it is marked 2mdv6  (no A at the end).  All others specs are the same.  Will that work on this saw? They have the mounting kit too: $6.00. 

https://www.ebay.com/p/Dayton-Oval-Motor-Run-Capacitor-2MDV6A-370vac/1224490095

https://www.ebay.com/p/Dayton-Oval-Motor-Run-Capacitor-2MDV6A-370vac/1224490095

Edited June 13, 2019 by Brianr24

[Carl edward]

Thanks!!

[GrampaJim]

Carl, be sure to unplug the saw before you go digging around in there.  Speaking from experience. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

That number is a manufactoring part number indicating it is a run capacitor. The numbers that concern you most are the microfarads and in this case 7.5 and the voltage 370volts AC If they match what you have then it is good to go. 

[Carl edward]

Thanks!  I ordered both items this morning.  $13.68 total. Saved $5.00 shipping by choosing same vendor on eBay (Zoro Tools).  Their prices  look very reasonable on all their items.  I’ll let y’all know how it works.  Here’s my recent project made with eastern red cedar. One tree was maybe 100 years old (the deeper red color) and the other about 40.  The older one was dried leaving the whole log for several years. The other dried after cutting into lumber for about 18 months.

[Carl edward]

The colors seem to be evening out as the wood is exposed to the elements.  I’ve rubbed it with linseed oil only and can re- sand about once a year to keep the cedar from turning gray.

[Carl edward]

Back to the existing capacitor:  There are no connections at the top.  The wires go into the capacitor through a black filling that covers the top of the capacitor. I have wire snips with rubber covered handles.  Will that keep me from getting jolted when I cut the wires.  I figured I wear rubber gloves as well.  I remember well the big shock from a condenser in an older car or tractor distributor if you handled it wrong. I assume this could be stronger considering the voltage rating.  

[kmmcrafts]

 I don't think the rubber handles will help much but I could be wrong.. Back in high school my friends car was running bad.. his dad told us to take a plug wire off one at a time until we found what cyl. was misfiring.. We said no way we are doing that.. so his dad said get the rubber handled pliers and do it.. we refused again.. so he was talking crap about us being chicken to to it and said he'd do it then... we warned him.. he got nailed with it.. jumped and hit his head on the car hood etc.. But like an idiot went right back in for more.. He finally got the wire off.. but after than he had us hut down the car first, Thanks for the old funny memory.  

For what it's worth.. those rubber pliers handles was more of a plastic.. I'm not sure that a real rubber handle may help? I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig to try it though.. Maybe rubber gloves and the whole works will work. 

[JimErn]

7 hours ago, Carl edward said:

Back to the existing capacitor:  There are no connections at the top.  The wires go into the capacitor through a black filling that covers the top of the capacitor. I have wire snips with rubber covered handles.  Will that keep me from getting jolted when I cut the wires.  I figured I wear rubber gloves as well.  I remember well the big shock from a condenser in an older car or tractor distributor if you handled it wrong. I assume this could be stronger considering the voltage rating.  

Trace the wires to where they terminate, use a metal object or a piece of wire the same gauge and jump those connections

If it was me I would just clip one at a time.  You are going to have to either wire spice the new one in, or solder the new one in where the connection was made

250uf is not going to be that much of a shock IMO, but then again I have been doing that sort of thing a long time, so I am kind of numb to it

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

9 hours ago, Carl edward said:

Back to the existing capacitor:  There are no connections at the top.  The wires go into the capacitor through a black filling that covers the top of the capacitor. I have wire snips with rubber covered handles.  Will that keep me from getting jolted when I cut the wires.  I figured I wear rubber gloves as well.  I remember well the big shock from a condenser in an older car or tractor distributor if you handled it wrong. I assume this could be stronger considering the voltage rating.  

There more than likely is no charge left on that cap because it bled through the motor windings but to play it safe just cut one wire at a time. If you can trace back to source than just jump out with a insulated wire. 

[OCtoolguy]

6 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

 I don't think the rubber handles will help much but I could be wrong.. Back in high school my friends car was running bad.. his dad told us to take a plug wire off one at a time until we found what cyl. was misfiring.. We said no way we are doing that.. so his dad said get the rubber handled pliers and do it.. we refused again.. so he was talking crap about us being chicken to to it and said he'd do it then... we warned him.. he got nailed with it.. jumped and hit his head on the car hood etc.. But like an idiot went right back in for more.. He finally got the wire off.. but after than he had us hut down the car first, Thanks for the old funny memory.  

For what it's worth.. those rubber pliers handles was more of a plastic.. I'm not sure that a real rubber handle may help? I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig to try it though.. Maybe rubber gloves and the whole works will work. 

Kevin, many times those insulated pliers will get pin holes through the rubber coating from general use. If there is enough juice, it can find it's way through those pin holes and zap ya. I've pulled many a plug wire with my bare hands. I always made sure that I wasn't touching the cars body in any way though.

 

 

[JimErn]

6 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

 I don't think the rubber handles will help much but I could be wrong.. Back in high school my friends car was running bad.. his dad told us to take a plug wire off one at a time until we found what cyl. was misfiring.. We said no way we are doing that.. so his dad said get the rubber handled pliers and do it.. we refused again.. so he was talking crap about us being chicken to to it and said he'd do it then... we warned him.. he got nailed with it.. jumped and hit his head on the car hood etc.. But like an idiot went right back in for more.. He finally got the wire off.. but after than he had us hut down the car first, Thanks for the old funny memory.  

For what it's worth.. those rubber pliers handles was more of a plastic.. I'm not sure that a real rubber handle may help? I wouldn't want to be the guinea pig to try it though.. Maybe rubber gloves and the whole works will work. 

The garage I hung around at as a teenager had an old mechanic who kind of adopted me.  I watched in amazement one day as he pulled the spark plug wires, one at a time while the engine was running.  Holding the wire he would point his finger at the engine block and watch the spark jump, no spark or the wrong color spark and he would proclaim, that's the problem!

[Carl edward]

Thanks guys for the help.  As a kid,  I “gophered” for a couple of older mechanics and boy the stuff I learned from them.  After a while I graduated from “go and fetch” the wrench’s/tools to actually helping rebuild small block Chevy’s and air cooled VW engines.  Did the same thing in a cabinet shop too with two old craftsmen.  Learned stuff that you don’t get in high school wood shop. I’ll be forever grateful. 

Again, thanks guys for all your help.  My parts came in today but it will be Monday before I can install the capacitor.

[RICKHOLBROOK]

I have a 40-150 but can't find blades. Can you advise?

[RICKHOLBROOK]

where can I find blades for a 40–1 50.