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Repairing a DELTA 40-694


scrollntole

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Hi -- I'm looking for advise, hope someone can help. My 3-year old DELTA stopped working - will not start. This is my first ever issue. DELTA tech support is unresponsive - I've now been 'on hold' for 45 minutes, and counting. My guess is that either the on-off switch or the circuit breaker has failed. Question - has anyone had similar experience, and if so, how was it corrected? I can't find a way to get at the circuit breaker, it seems to be held in place by a plastic label, but I'm not sure how to remove the label so I can release the circuit breaker. Another question: how does one determine what exactly is the problem? Or it it one of those "keep changing parts and pieces" until you finally fix it....

Again, any advise is appreciated.

Vin

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I'm not sure what you have done up to this point but saws with that type of mechanism will sometimes stop in a position of what I call "high center". Try sticking a flat blade screwdriver in the end of the motor. It should slide into a slot in the end of the motor shaft. Turn the motor a couple of rotations. Do this with the saw unplugged of course. Then plug it in and try again. It could also be worn brushes. Remove and inspect them. Blow out the holes where they go. As mentioned above check the fuse. Good luck and keep us updated on what you find.

 

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Your looking at basic 'circuit testing'. A simple trouble light will work plugged in. NOT FOR A BEGINNER IF YOUR NOT FAMILIAR WITH ELECTRICITY. Process is hooking one probe to one side of the electric line, then start placing it on the other side to see where the electricity stops. Beginning of the switch, other side of the switch with it on. One side of breaker, other side of breaker. One side of motor other side of motor. Where the electricity stops you found your part. If the motor is frozen, it could still have electricity go through, but out of elimination it will be the only part. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=test+lighthttps://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-org00-win10-dsk00-nomod-us000-gatwy-feature-SEARC&keywords=circuit+tester&qid=1560790734&s=gateway&sr=8-3+120v&crid=2REDT5MJF7AN2&sprefix=test+light+120%2Caps%2C214&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_14

Safer approach is using a test meter and putting battery voltage through each side, either listening to a beep or looking at the meter. https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-org00-win10-dsk00-nomod-us000-gatwy-feature-SEARC&keywords=circuit+tester&qid=1560790734&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Electricians and Techs train with people til they can do the job safely. With some youtube videos you might pull it off, though there is a reason all the electronics has labels, DO NOT OPEN, AUTHORIZED TECHS. RJF

 

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Regarding a "fuse" get this: The Manual clearly identifies a "fuse" (see fig 10 on page 10) and includes instructions on using a tool to extract the fuse. BUT, a very big But, no tool ever came with the saw; plus the Parts Diagram also clearly identifies this as a "circuit breaker".  The Manual and the Parts Diagram do not match. Looking at my saw it's a circuit breaker and I'm yet to figure a way to remove it. I'm having some luck with the on-off switch.

I did find out about the 5-year warranty; I bought this in 2016 and of course I can't find the sales receipt. I'm typically more careful with receipts, but so far.....

And I'm not trained nor have much experience with electricity, so sooner or later I may find myself bringing it to a shop for some work.

Any other ideas? Thanks very much for all those who have responded - really appreciate you taking the time.

Vin

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Like Kepy mentioned above, it probably the switch. Dust gets into it and gums up the contacts. As a scroll saw instructor at the local Woodcraft store, I have repaired many a DeWALT switch. If you are handy it’s doable. The first thing you want to do is remove the cover that holds the speed control and switch. Unplug the machine. With needle nose pliers remove the two wires that connect to the switch. Again, make sure the machine is unplugged. Tape together the two wires, then plug the machine back in. If it comes on, the problem is in the switch. If not, then it’s time to take it in to the repair shop. 

The switch is is repairable. If you need to, I’ll walk you through it. Let me know.

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https://www.manualslib.com/manual/801039/Delta-40-690.html?page=11

Start here with the fuse.It is not a circuit breaker in the sense you are thinking but a fuse is a circuit breaker because when it fails it breaks the circuit. The next step is the switch. The brushes are not going to be the reason so do not bother there. The very first thing is make sure there is power to the outlet you are plugged into. 

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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30 minutes ago, scrollntole said:

Regarding a "fuse" get this: The Manual clearly identifies a "fuse" (see fig 10 on page 10) and includes instructions on using a tool to extract the fuse. BUT, a very big But, no tool ever came with the saw; plus the Parts Diagram also clearly identifies this as a "circuit breaker".  The Manual and the Parts Diagram do not match. Looking at my saw it's a circuit breaker and I'm yet to figure a way to remove it. I'm having some luck with the on-off switch.

I did find out about the 5-year warranty; I bought this in 2016 and of course I can't find the sales receipt. I'm typically more careful with receipts, but so far.....

And I'm not trained nor have much experience with electricity, so sooner or later I may find myself bringing it to a shop for some work.

Any other ideas? Thanks very much for all those who have responded - really appreciate you taking the time.

Vin

Stop me if I'm wrong but with a 5 year warranty, you shouldn't need a receipt because I don't think that saw has been around for 5 years. It's just not that old.

 

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Ok - just a little more info regarding my travails with the scroll saw: I asked Delta Customer support about my issue and the fuse. This is their reply:

"The fuse was replaced with a breaker so, just push the button. If that doesn't work then it may be a bad switch or controller. For service center use the following link:

I have visually checked the switch and it is clean of any sawdust.
In turn I've replied by asking what is a controller and where is it on the tool. It is not shown on the Parts Diagram for this saw. I'll let all of you know if I get something conclusive that's of value to all those who own this Delta scroll saw. Stay tuned....
Vin
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23 minutes ago, scrollntole said:

Ok - just a little more info regarding my travails with the scroll saw: I asked Delta Customer support about my issue and the fuse. This is their reply:

"The fuse was replaced with a breaker so, just push the button. If that doesn't work then it may be a bad switch or controller. For service center use the following link:

I have visually checked the switch and it is clean of any sawdust.
In turn I've replied by asking what is a controller and where is it on the tool. It is not shown on the Parts Diagram for this saw. I'll let all of you know if I get something conclusive that's of value to all those who own this Delta scroll saw. Stay tuned....
Vin

The controller is the circuit board and located in the switch assembly I would assume because it controls the speed and that knob on top is the speed knob. https://www.repairtoolparts.com/delta-parts/delta-40-695-type-1-parts/delta-dpec002186-circuit-board-assy But then again it could be behind that circuit breaker/fuse area. 

Looks like it is part #74 right under the speed switch on top of the switch housing. It is a combo pot and circuit board. May have to blow up the diagram.  https://assets.ctfassets.net/hnrwk8wffcvh/3FBlEf7XQQykqaOgAcUUEi/4c82e0a781dacfcc167300b8d51aaad8/40-694_20Scroll_20Saw_20Parts_20List_20Rev_204.pdf

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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Just for the heck of it . Use a can of air, ie dust off and blow out everything. You can use the rest of the dust off on the keyboard, or car heat vent, or the cooling fan for the desk top computer. Unplug the machine. Since you probably don't own a can of electronics cleaner use a small bottle of Everclear, 'STRAIGHT DRINKING ALCOHOL'  and pour a little over the switch, breaker. I recommend this rather than rubbing alcohol that has a chemical in it to make it undrinkable. The chemical may react with parts. What you do with the rest of the Everclear is up to you, but I wouldn't drive.

I think if its not working your going to get to the point someone is going to have to pull it apart and troubleshoot it by putting a meter on it. If I was nearby I would stop over, but we are a bit apart from each other. RJF

Edited by teachnlearn
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OK, my final comment. Looks like JTTHECLOCKMAN has it right - see his comments just above - ... below is the latest advise from Delta Tech Support.

The controller is an electronic circuit board Ref. # 74 on page 2 of the parts list. You will need to remove Ref. # 67  HOUSING (LEFT) to see it.
We suggest using a service center for the repair.
Regards,
Delta Customer Care

So, for the long run, I hope all this helps anyone else with this scroll saw and this problem. It's either the Switch of the Controller according to Delta Tech Supt. Good luck, and again I very much appreciate all the input from everyone.

Vin

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Worked in various industries. Worked for a brand company for appliance, HVAC, Window air conditioners. Have had instances of the washer not working. The husband unplugged it and used the outlet. He forgot to plug the washing machine back in. YEP, washer was dead from not being plugged in. I wouldn't have charged them anything, but the company charged a hefty fee for onsite service for the min hour. Another is the breaker or fuse going for the outlet. Plug something else in and make sure you have electricity.

I've see cars and electronics repaired by plugging in parts till it works. Since its not known whether its the switch or control board. Order both, replace both. Your saving the cost of shipping the machine, add repair price and your starting with a new. Just a thought.

Compare the repair to a new machine. Sometimes the repairs, service cost half of the machine. Add half more and you have a new machine. RJF

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On 6/17/2019 at 2:04 PM, dgman said:

Like Kepy mentioned above, it probably the switch. Dust gets into it and gums up the contacts. As a scroll saw instructor at the local Woodcraft store, I have repaired many a DeWALT switch. If you are handy it’s doable. The first thing you want to do is remove the cover that holds the speed control and switch. Unplug the machine. With needle nose pliers remove the two wires that connect to the switch. Again, make sure the machine is unplugged. Tape together the two wires, then plug the machine back in. If it comes on, the problem is in the switch. If not, then it’s time to take it in to the repair shop. 

The switch is is repairable. If you need to, I’ll walk you through it. Let me know.

SUCCESS! By following these instructions I determined that indeed the problem is the Switch. Dan, you saved me a trip to the Service Center and probably a lot of money -- Thank You very much. I can get a replacement for about $6 - to - $7 dollars on ereplacement. The key though is that you were right-on about how to determine the problem. Now we're all a little smarter! Thanks again,

Vin

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  • 2 years later...
On 6/23/2019 at 8:42 AM, scrollntole said:

SUCCESS! By following these instructions I determined that indeed the problem is the Switch. Dan, you saved me a trip to the Service Center and probably a lot of money -- Thank You very much. I can get a replacement for about $6 - to - $7 dollars on ereplacement. The key though is that you were right-on about how to determine the problem. Now we're all a little smarter! Thanks again,

Vin

I would like to thank everyone who responded to this problem which most likely made it easier to find through a Google search. I was dealing with the same issue with my craftsman scroll saw, and I was thinking the problem was either the circuit breaker or the control assembly board. I had both removed completely but could not see anything obviously wrong with either one, so I decided to try google... and Dan, you definitely are the man!
I'm not sure if it will work but I am just going to swap the light switch with the power switch as they look identical to me and I don't think I'll be cutting anything in the dark!
 Thank you so much fellas!

Ryan

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  • 9 months later...

I am also having a similar problem with my Delta 40-694 scroll saw. The difference is that the saw will turn on, run for several seconds and then stop. I followed this thread and replaced the breaker, so that is brand new. I also by-passed the starter switch and the saw will turn on, run for a few seconds and then cut off again. I also pulled the brushes and cleaned them off. They are not worn very much so I did not replace. As long as I keep resetting the breaker, I can get the machine to run for awhile until it cuts off again. Could this possibly be the $200 controller board? The speed control works okay but the saw runs a little longer on slower speeds. If I run at full speed the saw will cut off sooner. Any suggestions? The saw does not get heavy use. I contacted Delta and their warranty is almost completely useless because they do not have my registration on their system and I need the receipt. I purchased this on-line and no longer have the info.

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  • 1 year later...

For those facing issues with the 40-694, I bought on in March of 2020. It is now back in the shop. Motor is toast for the second time. No issues with the switch, controller board, brushes. Thankfully have my receipt, so it’s covered, but repair facility is 2 hours away. This site has been great, but wondering if anyone else has had their machine eat up motors? When it first started, I could turn the motor shaft end and it would restart. But my issue was usually a heat issue, but not enough to trip the breaker. Motor would get hot, but keep running. When I would turn machine off for any reason, it wouldn’t restart. I could turn the shaft and it would start. But I let it cool down. Being I am now getting a second replacement, wondering what thoughts were? Or if there is a better replacement motor once this is out of warranty? Love the machine, but can’t take being down for repair time like this.

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It does make you wonder if maybe an EX or Pegas motor might fit. I wonder if Ray at Seyco might know. Maybe give them a call. Sure seems strange that you are having this problem. Have you checked your power source to make sure you aren't on an overloaded circuit? Low voltage might be the culprit. Or a bad extension cord if using one. Check everything that is in the circuit. Good luck.

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I agree with Ray, maybe one motor was a fluke thing but two.. makes one wonder if there is some sort of power supply issue going on.. especially when you say the motor gets hot.. there is a issue somewhere for sure because none of the motors on my saws ever get hot.. not even really much more than room temp I don't think.. 

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