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Has anyone tried this ?


Foxfold

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Just because I love learning, I sometimes look through YouTube to find interesting things. Today I found this. Has anyone tried it ? Does it work as he says?  Is it worth trying ?  So many questions :-).  I do wish I'd found out about Scrolling 20yrs ago.  🀣

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It definitely works. Brenda.

I have made one for both my saws. I don't use them very often. When I'm cutting portraits etc once the blade becomes blunt, it has also weakened so you won't gain much with thin blades. However when I'm cutting 25mm of thicker solid timber with #5 + blades it almost doubles the life of them.

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I've heard of it, never tried it.Β  Maybe a good idea if you are doing something with non-reverse blades...Β  It always makes me feel bad when a blade gets dull, I take it out and see the shinny part,,,, shows how little of a blade is actually used....Β  Not that blades are really expensive, but I hate waste.Β  Same reason I like to recycle,,, not because I think I will save the earth, but because I hate waste.

Edited by Scrappile
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Seen this before. IΒ would be concerned about blade breakage on the area that was cut with. Depending on the wood and the depth cutting creates heat which also contributes to blade dulling . For the minimum blades cost I wouldn't think is be feasible if that blade broke and caused an issue with the project your working on. JMHO .Β 

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57 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

I've heard of it, never tried it.Β  Maybe a good idea if you are doing something with non-reverse blades...Β  It always makes me feel bad when a blade gets dull, I take it out and see the shinny part,,,, shows how little of a blade is actually used....Β  Not that blades are really expensive, but I hate waste.Β  Same reason I like to recycle,,, not because I think I will save the earth, but because I hate waste.

Paul, let's design a cheap spot welder that we can weld the blades end to end and get more use out of them. It shouldn't cost us more than a few thousand dollars. LOL.

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5 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Paul, let's design a cheap spot welder that we can weld the blades end to end and get more use out of them. It shouldn't cost us more than a few thousand dollars. LOL.ο»Ώ

In the "Band Saw Handbook", Dugenske tells about a welder for use on band saws, so that internal cuts can be made.  You break the blade and weld it back together after passing it through the blade entry hole.  You could mount one of these on the side of your scroll saw for blade repair.🀣

Edited by jollyred
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Using Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades on my DeWALT, Β I canΒ achieve the same thing. Since the reverse teeth on the FD UR blades are every third tooth, I can adjust the blade to sit high in the blade clamps. Then when dull, I can move the blade lower into the clamps. Works fo me. This also works with skip tooth and all other blades except regular reverse tooth blades.

Edited by dgman
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This subject has come up before.Β  Β You can achieve a similarΒ result by cutting 3/4" off theΒ bottom of blade and adjust the tension accordingly.Β  However the saw will cut a little more aggressively.Β  Β You will lose the reverse teeth of course, depending on the blade used either way.

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There is a small spot welder used to weld strips to watch batteries and battery cells to make battery packs. RJF

https://www.amazon.com/battery-Welding-Machine-Charging-Function/dp/B01MF8LKYK/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=battery+welder&qid=1561497438&s=hi&sr=1-7

Some hobby techs. use these to make solar panels. They buy solar cells and weld a group, then another, then another, then weld the groups together to make a panel, then make a panel and mount the cells, then weld some more to create connects to connect to the next panel. RJF

Edited by teachnlearn
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On 6/25/2019 at 2:49 PM, stoney said:

This subject has come up before.Β  Β You can achieve a similarΒ result by cutting 3/4" off theΒ bottom of blade and adjust the tension accordingly.Β  However the saw will cut a little more aggressively.Β  Β You will lose the reverse teeth of course, depending on the blade used either way.

This is what I have done with #5 Polar FD blades.Β  I have also put a 1/2" thick plywood spacer on top of the saw surface. I find cutting off the bottom a bit works best for me.

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In my limited experience, this is one of the first things I tried when a blade got dull, as it just seemed an obvious thing to do.Β  I didn't make anything: just laid two pieces of 15mm chipboard on the table, laid a piece of thin ply on top and cut a slot in it, which raised the work up by about 20mm, into fresh teeth.

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I had on old piece of plastic that I used to use under my office chair.Β  Made something like this for my saw.Β Β 

Was a hassle to make and never used it even once.Β  Β Pretty much hit the scrap heap as soon as I finished it.Β 

I use a playing card with a hole in the middle of it over the hole to make it more zeroed.Β  I tape it down with plastic packing tape. Works for my needs.Β Β 

I have seen some nicer spaces here for sure but the card thing works fine for my stuff.

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3 minutes ago, crupiea said:

I had on old piece of plastic that I used to use under my office chair.Β  Made something like this for my saw.Β Β 

Was a hassle to make and never used it even once.Β  Β Pretty much hit the scrap heap as soon as I finished it.Β 

I use a playing card with a hole in the middle of it over the hole to make it more zeroed.Β  I tape it down with plastic packing tape. Works for my needs.Β Β 

I have seen some nicer spaces here for sure but the card thing works fine for my stuff.

If you add four more playing cards you might have a good hand. RJF

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