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Magnifying Lights


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I know this has been covered before but I can't seem to find the posts. What kind of magnifying lights do you use for your scroll saw. I was being cheap and looking at the Harbor freight one for $39.99 has anyone tried this one out. Steve Good said it was pretty good for the money. I have a couple that I paid around 30.00 bucks each but they are about seventeen years old and one quit. If you don't mind let me know what you are currently using.  Thank you

grizz

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I have 4 pair 

1 hour ago, JimErn said:

Well just cause I am different, I dislike having to move things when I raise the saw arm especially, I use these

https://www.amazon.com/Headband-Magnifier-Glasses-Handsfree-Magnifying/dp/B0716ZCYXZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headband+magnifier&qid=1564321188&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I use these also. I have 4 pair. One at the saw, one at each of my 3 clock benches. They are inexpensive and out perform my several Optivisors. They are a real bargain and have several magnifier lens. 

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I also have a magnifying light.  Couldn't find a location for it to focus that wasn't in the way for blade changes.  Use it as an expensive light mounted just above the saw.

Wear a headband magnifier over a welders cap.  Just the headband without the cap was uncomfortable.  Like that it is portable & always use it for drilling.

jerry

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7 hours ago, Sycamore67 said:

There is a pretty big difference in the optical quality of magnifying lamps.  I had a HF and hurt my eyes. I got an Ottlite and much happier.  Your eyes will tell you which one is best.

While that's true it's difficult at best to try a variety of lights, especially if you buy on-line. Even if you purchase one at a craft store it's unlikely they will be on display to try out. So going by the experience of others is valuable. I don't think I've ever seen a comparative review in any of the woodworking mags I subscribe to? 

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3 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

On the rbi saws there is a place to mount the light and it easily swings back and forth and to me it is so second nature I do it automatically and do not think about it. My blade changing is like a dance and can be done in about 5 to 10 seconds. 

I cannot agree with you more about the Hawk blade changing, LOL

 I have three of these lights.. and the fourth one is unknown because it came new with my old Hawk ultra and I have no idea of brand etc.. anyway my oldest one of the Menards ones is 13 years old.. I just changed out the bulb last year to a LED bulb.. liked the LED so much better than I changed it in all of them.. I'll link to the bulb I bought too.. as they are not all created equal.. One of the bulbs is from Menards as well.. but the plug for the wires is fixed in one position and at an angle that while works.. took some finagling to get it to work.. The bulb in the link below has a swivel pin connector so you can change the angle of it..

MY light: 

https://www.menards.com/main/lighting-ceiling-fans/indoor-lighting/lamps/desk-lamps/patriot-lighting-reg-apollo-45-h-black-1-light-magnifier-desk-lamp/tb1306b/p-1444438446926-c-1531402259058.htm?tid=6120375444130429389&ipos=1

 

The LED BULB

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-inch-Circline-T9-Daylight-6000K-LED-Relamp-Fluorescent-FC8T9-Bulb/222261066257?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

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3 hours ago, oldhudson said:

While that's true it's difficult at best to try a variety of lights, especially if you buy on-line. Even if you purchase one at a craft store it's unlikely they will be on display to try out. So going by the experience of others is valuable. I don't think I've ever seen a comparative review in any of the woodworking mags I subscribe to? 

I doubt if a comparative review would help as everyone's eyes are different along with the type of glasses you wear and the distance you are from your workpiece. Many times a store will have one on display that you can try.  I could feel the difference and comfort of using between different ones.  The HF ones made my eyes hurt.  I tried an Ottlite in a Joann Fabric Store and another brand at a Hobby Lobby.  

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8 hours ago, JimErn said:

Well just cause I am different, I dislike having to move things when I raise the saw arm especially, I use these

https://www.amazon.com/Headband-Magnifier-Glasses-Handsfree-Magnifying/dp/B0716ZCYXZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headband+magnifier&qid=1564321188&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I might give these a try.  As it is, when cutting bigger pieces I have the saw throat to deal with, my belly, and the current mag/light.  With these I would only need to worry about the throat and my belly being in the way!

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23 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I cannot agree with you more about the Hawk blade changing, LOL

 I have three of these lights.. and the fourth one is unknown because it came new with my old Hawk ultra and I have no idea of brand etc.. anyway my oldest one of the Menards ones is 13 years old.. I just changed out the bulb last year to a LED bulb.. liked the LED so much better than I changed it in all of them.. I'll link to the bulb I bought too.. as they are not all created equal.. One of the bulbs is from Menards as well.. but the plug for the wires is fixed in one position and at an angle that while works.. took some finagling to get it to work.. The bulb in the link below has a swivel pin connector so you can change the angle of it..

MY light: 

https://www.menards.com/main/lighting-ceiling-fans/indoor-lighting/lamps/desk-lamps/patriot-lighting-reg-apollo-45-h-black-1-light-magnifier-desk-lamp/tb1306b/p-1444438446926-c-1531402259058.htm?tid=6120375444130429389&ipos=1

 

The LED BULB

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-inch-Circline-T9-Daylight-6000K-LED-Relamp-Fluorescent-FC8T9-Bulb/222261066257?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Since you switched to LED you 'CAN' dim it if you want to. Just go to Menards buy a LED DIMMER SWITCH a electrical box that fits it. A little lamp cord, plug and outlet plug. Wire the plug through the box to the in of the dimmer switch, wire the outlet plug through the electrical box to the out of the switch. Close up the box and add a switch plate. If you get a lot of lamp cord you can put the box anywhere on the side of the scroll saw or where ever. RJF

https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?sf_categoryHierarchy=&search=led+dimmer

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On 7/29/2019 at 4:22 PM, Sycamore67 said:

Not all LED bulbs can be dimmed.  I read the info on the two with links and it did not mention if they were dimmable.

Threw new information there.  I'm familiar with the small LED that are solid state and work in all the electronics. I know CFLs can be dimmed, but some can, some can't. If its a true LED bulb, it should be solid state and dimable. So there are a group of LED bulbs out there that don't dim, and I have no idea what or where those are. I have designed smart homes and once the LED were powerful enough, everyone jumped on board to put in automated switches for them. RJF

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1 hour ago, teachnlearn said:

Threw new information there.  I'm familiar with the small LED that are solid state and work in all the electronics. I know CFLs can be dimmed, but some can, some can't. If its a true LED bulb, it should be solid state and dimable. So there are a group of LED bulbs out there that don't dim, and I have no idea what or where those are. I have designed smart homes and once the LED were powerful enough, everyone jumped on board to put in automated switches for them. RJF

Was in need of a new bulb a couple weeks ago... was at Menards looking at the LED bulbs and they have dimmable and regular.. If I remember correctly the dimmable ones were a couple dollars more a box.. I was always under the same thought as you.. I really question if the dimmable ones are the same bulb with a "marketing ploy " to get a few more $$ out of the same bulb, LOL  

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1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

Was in need of a new bulb a couple weeks ago... was at Menards looking at the LED bulbs and they have dimmable and regular.. If I remember correctly the dimmable ones were a couple dollars more a box.. I was always under the same thought as you.. I really question if the dimmable ones are the same bulb with a "marketing ploy " to get a few more $$ out of the same bulb, LOL  

Guess the only way to know is someone, kill a few dollars on the labeled dimmable and 'regular and plug them into a dimmer. IF its a TRUE LED, it would be dimmable because of the way they are manufactured. I have used a load of LEDs in projects and have never had a problem dimming them or creating patterns. A circuit can be designed to monitor something else and when there is lower power on that item its directly shown by the brightness of the led. Sometimes they are put on circuit boards for quick look trouble shooting. If the led is dim then something in the area of that led is pulling power. RJF

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Without getting into the electronics of this but if the package or bulb does not say it is dimmable than it is not. Do not do it. It has to do with the drivers feeding the leds and the pulses it allows. Like I said i will not go into this because most will not understand. Also those leds that say are dimmable are to a point. They will dim a bulb to about 90% and then you see the wave lengths and add the ac current which pulsates and if the voltage is low then it is even more prominent. The light output is not that great when dimmed. You are better off either getting different color tones or adding filters to change light output. 

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On 7/27/2019 at 11:14 PM, scrollingforsanity said:

I know this has been covered before but I can't seem to find the posts. What kind of magnifying lights do you use for your scroll saw. I was being cheap and looking at the Harbor freight one for $39.99 has anyone tried this one out. Steve Good said it was pretty good for the money. I have a couple that I paid around 30.00 bucks each but they are about seventeen years old and one quit. If you don't mind let me know what you are currently using.  Thank you

grizz

The HF is a good light.

Duke

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The cost of the magnifiers cost is the quality of the lens material and the quality of the manufacturing of the lens magnification or polishing. Lens can be a cheap molded plastic to create the magnification shape. As the cost increases you will find clear glass that is ground and polished to create the magnification.  When I was designing circuits for companies I had a bench that had a scientific magnifier. The magnification was crystal clear. I was able to find micro cracks in the cooper circuit or poor soldering on small parts. Also came with a mag camera with a flat screen to boot. Really cheap ones may distort the object. Like looking through water and not being able to grab the object. If possible bring photographs and check the magnifier. The magnification should be clear and crisp. If you decide on one because its cheap, the downside maybe your eyes will quickly tire. Its like getting a pair of glasses with the wrong script.

Most people have a level of what they can afford. As I get older and having some disabilities along with my wife having the same; We find it helps to save a little more for devices that have a bit better build.

We have extension grippers and the cheap ones don't grab. Cheap tub and shower bars that fall off the wall. After a round of buying things that aid or adapt for us we now save and buy a couple levels above cheap. We decided to buy equipment that will work properly and not hurt us.

For magnifiers your adapting your eyes to assist or aid to see smaller things. Your buying adaptions for your eyes. If you find what you want and you find yourself tiring quickly or getting headaches, it could be the magnifier is doing that. Just like a pair of glasses that aren't made for you.

Problem with Amazon and other online orders is there is no hands on trying. Just finding out after you get it.

By the way, there was a thread on where the magnifier was attached. Some people had trouble with vibration from the saw when the magnifier was clamped to the table. So the discussion went on about adapting where to clamp or creating or buying floor stands. RJF

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