Finish woodwork?

[Miran]

In the topic of my first creation ( and making it again just a bit bigger for the leases of the woofers  )
some said  applying a finish on it.
So I looked around on the forum about what etc.
Then of course because I live in the Netherlands looked around what I can buy here.
So I want to ask you all if this is something good to work with?

[Foxfold]

This is fine, I use it all the time and have no problem with it. Most Danish Oils are much of a muchness and I have found very little difference between the different  Brands.  It takes a while for the smell to go away totally, but I'm very 'sensitive' to that so my pieces stay in the garage for a couple of weeks after I've finished them.

[loftyhermes]

I finish the majority of my work with Danish Oil. Either dipped or brushed on. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I too use Danish oil all the time and as mentioned yes there is a smell to it but I have grown to like it over the years and the many many projects I finished with it. I am a dipper so that is how I apply. Pour in a container and dip project. Let drip and then wipe dry. Pour back in can the rest. I have small funnels to help with this or else it is all over the place. If the project is too big to dip then just brush liberally and again let drip and wipe dry. need to keep n eye on it because the Danish oil will seep back out over time and form puddles in fret work but again a quick wipe and good to go. 

Just remember after wiping dry, do not bundle the rags up and forget them. They can self combust. Need to treat with care. I hang outside till dry and then throw away. You can dump them in a bucket of water too if you prefer. But that is a hazard that needs to be careful with when using oil finishes of any kind. 

[OCtoolguy]

3 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I too use Danish oil all the time and as mentioned yes there is a smell to it but I have grown to like it over the years and the many many projects I finished with it. I am a dipper so that is how I apply. Pour in a container and dip project. Let drip and then wipe dry. Pour back in can the rest. I have small funnels to help with this or else it is all over the place. If the project is too big to dip then just brush liberally and again let drip and wipe dry. need to keep n eye on it because the Danish oil will seep back out over time and form puddles in fret work but again a quick wipe and good to go. 

Just remember after wiping dry, do not bundle the rags up and forget them. They can self combust. Need to treat with care. I hang outside till dry and then throw away. You can dump them in a bucket of water too if you prefer. But that is a hazard that needs to be careful with when using oil finishes of any kind. 

John, just curious. I bought some rags at H/D that were supposed to be for wiping. They do carry a small amount of lint so I have to pick the lint balls of my creations. What type of rags do you use? Are you just using tee shirt material or something special? If so, what/where do you suggest? Also, how do you "hang" something that has no "hooked" area to hang it from? I know these are silly questions but I would like to know your technique.

 

 

Edited August 14, 2019 by octoolguy

[Bill WIlson]

Not John, but here's my $.02.

I use regular old, worn out t-shirts.  They've been washed so many times, there is no lint left.  

As for hanging oily rags, you can hang them any way you like, just make sure they are spread out and air can get to them.  I usually take mine outside and spread them over the edge of the fire ring or a bucket.  You do not want to ball them up and stuff them in a garbage can or pile them up in a corner.  Balling them up allows heat to build and other debris in a garbage can gives them additional fuel to burn, if they ignite.

This also applies to rags used to apply oil based stains.  Most oil based stains use Linseed oil as the binder for the pigments.  These can also be a fire hazard.

[OCtoolguy]

25 minutes ago, Bill WIlson said:

Not John, but here's my $.02.

I use regular old, worn out t-shirts.  They've been washed so many times, there is no lint left.  

As for hanging oily rags, you can hang them any way you like, just make sure they are spread out and air can get to them.  I usually take mine outside and spread them over the edge of the fire ring or a bucket.  You do not want to ball them up and stuff them in a garbage can or pile them up in a corner.  Balling them up allows heat to build and other debris in a garbage can gives them additional fuel to burn, if they ignite.

This also applies to rags used to apply oil based stains.  Most oil based stains use Linseed oil as the binder for the pigments.  These can also be a fire hazard.

When I asked about "hanging" I was referring to the project at hand. The baskets that I make have no "hanging" spot to attach wire, string or whatever. I have been just wiping all the excess oil off of them but it would  be nice to let them drip dry.

 

[NC Scroller]

In use Danish Oil all the time though a different brand.  I even use Danish Oil to dip small pieces and fret work.  I wipe off the excess will blue paper towels or I blow off excess with my air compressor.

[Roberta Moreton]

I have an old cookie sheet and cooling rack. I set my projects on that to drip after I wipe. Go back and wipe again now and then. When I need a new set, I get a new cookie sheet and cooling rack for the kitchen and take the old ones. Win/Win. 

[Miran]

Thank you all for all. It is also good that you gave the warning about the rags.
I am going to buy that and try it out  

[dgman]

4 hours ago, octoolguy said:

John, just curious. I bought some rags at H/D that were supposed to be for wiping. They do carry a small amount of lint so I have to pick the lint balls of my creations. What type of rags do you use? Are you just using tee shirt material or something special? If so, what/where do you suggest? Also, how do you "hang" something that has no "hooked" area to hang it from? I know these are silly questions but I would like to know your technique.

 

 

Ray, I used to use old tee shirts till I ran out of old tee shirts. I tried the rags from the big box stores but did not like the lint as you described. What’s working for me is the blue shop towels that come in a roll like paper towels but they do not leave lint behind. You can find them at hardware stores and auto parts stores.

[OCtoolguy]

3 minutes ago, dgman said:

Ray, I used to use old tee shirts till I ran out of old tee shirts. I tried the rags from the big box stores but did not like the lint as you described. What’s working for me is the blue shop towels that come in a roll like paper towels but they do not leave lint behind. You can find them at hardware stores and auto parts stores.

Thanks Dan. I've been using them in my shop for years but never thought about using them for this. I'll give them a try. Now, all I have to do is come up with a draining rack of some kind. I just bought my first gallon of Watco's oil so I can start dipping my stuff. In the long run, it will be worth the investment. I hope.

 

[dgman]

Ray, I use some cookie cooling racks I bought at Target. They came three in a pack. I use them to set the projects on to dry after I wipe down the  the project. After the project is dry, I  place the projects on the racks to spray my topcoat.

Edited August 15, 2019 by dgman

[teachnlearn]

I've seen triangles used for drying and painting and also seen brads nailed in so there is a very small point area for the project to dry or spray. RJF

[dgman]

1 hour ago, teachnlearn said:

I've seen triangles used for drying and painting and also seen brads nailed in so there is a very small point area for the project to dry or spray. RJF

Yup, I have a bunch of those pyramid shaped things and use them when needed, but the cookie drying racks are easier to use.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

To answer a few questions and alot is repeating what others have said. I use old Tee shirts which I have plenty of. Cut them up in small pieces. No need to waste them on one piece. I have used old handkerchiefs too. Hanging rags is as others have said place over something that you can spread out. I have a bunch of patio blocks that I have stacked in behind my shed. A day and they are dry. 

Here is how I do my dipping and I believe I laid this out before. Depending on the size of the project, I have various size plastic storage containers. You can get these on sale anywhere and at times yard sales. Not much money there. being I use lots of Danish oil I always buy it by the gallons and I bought a huge quantity when Home Depot was selling out and I still have some so they were 1/4 of the price they are today at least. Now depending on the size of the project I use as much as i think necessary. If I am doing large projects I have 3 partial gallons that I pour in the container and either dip and splash around or sometimes I have to use a cheap brush to apply because I can not spin the project in the container. I buy the cheap brushes in Home Depot for $1 or whatever they are. Throw aways. The nice thing about Danish oil you do not have to be fussy at all. Just get it on in a good amount and let it soak in. Now I will leave said project in container for about 5 to 10 minutes flipping or brushing every once in awhile. After that I take the project out letting it drip some in the container before I place it on top of the lid of the container to drip  most of the oil off. Do not wipe at this time. I then place another project or group of projects in the container for same amount of time. Now when they are ready to come out I take the piece that is dripping on the lid and wipe it down and place it on a piece of old plywood I have designated for this stuff. I use long strips of scraps of woods placed on the plywood and place the project on edge of these strips to further drip. I now take other project out of dipping container and do the same thing. Rinse and repeat. After about half hour goes by I once again set up a dry piece of plywood with the same type of strips and again wipe project down and this time place there to dry. I go back and do these same things over and over until I have all things dipped and drying on clean plywood. remember I always do this outdoors . The smell is too overwhelming indoors.  I leave them for a few hours. I go back and now using a funnel I pour the remains of the Danish oil back in the cans to be used again and again and again. Never goes bad if cans are sealed. I have Danish oil over 15 years old and still good. By the way I meant to say that I pour the oil that is in the lid back into the container before it goes in the can. I wipe the container out and lid out with acetone. Let sit outside and ready for next time. Again if the project is a small one and one of a kind I use a way smaller container and smaller amount of oil but process is the same. I never double dip. I have found that the first dipping seals the wood and second coat does nothing. 

Now I take things indoors and place in basement to completely dry which is about 3 to 4 days. I wipe one more time to make sure no drips and the heat of your hands will activate the oils again so be aware of this. Projects that I can stand I stand on boards I have set up. The ones I need to hang I have a line setup to hang with some wire. Have been doing this for over 35 years and has worked well for me. Can not explain it any more than that. 

When all said and done I apply a coat of Watco Satin wax on top and gives a nice sheen to the project. 

 

Just a tip on those triangle things I do not waste my money on them. I take a block of wood and run a few sheet rock screws through the back. The points on those screws are very sharp. I use those things when I do spray painting of things. 

Edited August 15, 2019 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[John B]

I never use oils on the items that I make, but that's neither here nor there.

When I can't find a Tee-shirt of my own with enough holes in to relegate to the rag bag, I visit an Op-shop. Tee-shirts are usually only about 50c a piece or sometimes I can pick up a bag full for a couple of dollars.

[Bill WIlson]

17 hours ago, octoolguy said:

When I asked about "hanging" I was referring to the project at hand. The baskets that I make have no "hanging" spot to attach wire, string or whatever. I have been just wiping all the excess oil off of them but it would  be nice to let them drip dry.

 

Oooookaaay, I totally misread that question.  

Like some others have mentioned, I use pyramid shaped standoffs a lot when finishing.  I made a couple dozen of them out of 1 1/2" square pine, with the ends cut to a point, on the miter saw. 

If I dip something in oil, I usually wipe as much of the excess off as possible, then use my compressor to gently blow out the nooks & crannies.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I have read this compressor trick a few times here when using oils. I have never found that necessary. Why you have so much pooling in fret work is mind boggling to me. If you lay the piece down it has to drain and the remaining has to be absorbed in the cutouts. The only time I had that happen was as I said if I double dipped because the wood was already sealed and I stopped doing that many years ago. I found that to be a waste of time. Maybe because I use red oak and it is more porous is the reason I do not run into this. But I have done the same with mahogany, maple, walnut and many others. 

[rustynail]

14 hours ago, dgman said:

Ray, I used to use old tee shirts till I ran out of old tee shirts. I tried the rags from the big box stores but did not like the lint as you described. What’s working for me is the blue shop towels that come in a roll like paper towels but they do not leave lint behind. You can find them at hardware stores and auto parts stores.

Go to your local thrift store as they sell old tee's and such as rags in large bags for cheap...