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I Confess, I Did It!


Scrappile

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I did something last evening that I know is not going to be excepted here.  I don't ask for forgiveness, I'm not proud of it but it had to be done, for now at least.  I removed my Pegas clamps from my Seyco saw and went back to the old original clamps!!!!!  I know, I know, I may be banned from here but I ask for your understanding.  Here is why:

I started cutting a picture that is my kind of fun scrolling.   Detailed.   I have to use Flying Dutchman 3/0 New Spiral Blades to accomplish it.  I could not clamp the 3/0 Spiral in the Pegas clamp without getting the "Hockey Stick" bend in each end.  I tried every trick I have learned in my years of scrolling to prevent it, but no matter, best I could do was get 3 or so clampings and it would happen.  I am convinced it has something to do with the fact there are more exposed threads in the back of the Pegas clamp where you put the blade.  The back of the original clamps has a very small area that has exposed threads and they are not as deep.  That is the only difference I could see.  I suspect the twist of that thin spiral is catching in a thread.  I had it happen more often with a 2/0 pegas spiral also than I did with the original clamps.  That is my second go to spiral blade. 

Anyway, I am back to the old clamps, at least when using the 3/0 spiral.  Don't know is it is worth changing back to the Pegas clamp when not, I have to think on that..... maybe get a third scroll saw... several nice older Excaliburs for sale with in a couple hundred miles of me.........

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I agree with Jim.. 

But that said.. did your pegas clamps come with the thumb screws that have the swivel end? If I remember correctly mine did not and I swapped out the thumb screws from my DeWalt.. I had a backup set for the DW so i used the new set of the swivel thumb screws.. I also had some issues with the thumb screws that came with my Pegas clamp.. but not sure now what I had issues with other than I remember the knobs on the Pegas clamps was bigger and smooth.. and I liked the smaller style that I had for my DW.. so I swapped them..

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Paul, if I'm understanding correctly, I ask if you have the clamp screw anvils adjusted so that they protrude just a tiny bit proud of the wall of the clamp jaw. The only reason that I can think of for the blade ends to bend is if they are being forced into a recess when tightened. I have mine adjust so that the blades are captured between the opposing faces of the clamp screw and its anvil face and no contact with anything else except the rear wall of the clamp housing. With that in mind, the only reason for the hockey stick bend might be that the clamp screw and anvil faces aren't flat or parallel. Also make sure the tip of the clamp screw is swiveling correctly. Take it out and lube it once in a while.

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I have made all kinds of the know adjustments, cleaned all kinds of parts, cleaned blades, untwisted the ends of the blade with no improvement.  I even thought of bad blades, but switched clamps and no problem so far.  Keep in mind, this is a very thin flexible blade compared to all the other blades I use.  I have not had this problem with any other size blades I use, well a few times with the Pegas 2/0 spiral, but I expect it to happen more often with a spiral blade than a flat blade...  Maybe I will play with it more some day when I an trying to not make pictures frames that I need to be making...

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My bearings seem a bit sloppy in the chuck heads, so I ordered a set. Actually they were $64.00 except I fat fingered the shipping selection and hit the UPS 3 day for an additional $11. oops!  We'll see what happens. I hope they work, I have a gross of 2/0 Pegas and 3/0 FD.  I also tried some  #0 and #1 blades and may buy a gross of them also.

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On 8/19/2019 at 1:27 PM, Scrappile said:

@Wilson142, help a guy out, buy some, use them and see if you have the same problem with the 3/0 Spiral.....Then let me know,   they are only $100.....😏😉

Received my clamps and got them installed after chasing out the threads on one of them. Slightly funky threads but got it sorted.  After about 4 hrs cutting 1/4 BB with 3/0 FD New spiral blades, no hockey sticks on either end. They do seem to reduce vibration a bit and the lower clamp is a little easier to blind tighten when top feeding.  I used a washer  as a spacer to ensure the set screws protrude an equal amount and lubed the bearings well. Good luck.

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9 minutes ago, Wilson142 said:

 I used a washer  as a spacer to ensure the set screws protrude an equal amount and lubed the bearings well. Good luck.

Not sure I understand this, you used a washer just as a gauge or did you put it on somewhere?  So hummm, you are sorta telling me it is probably my problem..... I did adjust the screw while I had the clamps off and could see them better.  But I did not use any type gauge, I eye-balled it.  I put the clamps back on and there is some improvement, still getting hockey stick on the bottom clamp but not as often.  Maybe this evening I take them off again and use a gauge to make sure they are both protruding the same.  Not sure how far is correct... 

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51 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

  Not sure how far is correct... 

Does not matter, as long as the bottom and top set screw are protruding the same amount, then the blade will be plumb, which is what you want

I used s set of those old finger type feeler gauges we use to set points back in the day

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1 hour ago, Scrappile said:

Not sure I understand this, you used a washer just as a gauge or did you put it on somewhere?  So hummm, you are sorta telling me it is probably my problem..... I did adjust the screw while I had the clamps off and could see them better.  But I did not use any type gauge, I eye-balled it.  I put the clamps back on and there is some improvement, still getting hockey stick on the bottom clamp but not as often.  Maybe this evening I take them off again and use a gauge to make sure they are both protruding the same.  Not sure how far is correct... 

Paul, there is no "correct" amount. Back off both of the clamp screws, stick a thick washer in the slot and tighten the anvil screw up to it until you can just slip the washer back out. Lock the anvil screw down. Do this for both top and bottom clamps. Now, your blades will be in perfect alignment top to bottom. The important thing is that the anvil screws protrude from the clamp body and the same amount top and bottom. Clear as mud?

 

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"So hummm, you' are sorta telling me it is probably my problem."

     LOL, no I'm telling you I didn't have that happen to me. I have know idea why it's happening to you. When I received my clamps, the set screws were turned all the way in, so I found a washer that was approximately half the thickness of the slot and turned the set in to the washer and locked it down.  Just like octoolguy posted. I refrain from talking as if I'm any kind of expert and you'll not see me post many absolutes as if I were. I only offer my opinions based on my experiences. I  am very much annoyed with self proclaimed "experts",  I prefer to think everyone who scrolls for any length of time will develop the techniques that work best for them.

 

 

l

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Sometimes yes.  I have never had to straighten the ends of spiral blade and sure once in a while I would get hockey stick, but I could also get one once in a great while with a flat blade.  I don't know for sure what is happening.  I'll keep playing with it.  See if I can figure something out.  Or not....

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Under experienced circumstance, with manufacturers blade assembly, when yer gettin the "hockey stick" result at the blade holder, it's caused from over tightenin of the thumb screw agin the blade.

In my experience at the saw, if'n ya run yer thumb screw over a piece of 180 grit sandpaper to run the smooth spots off'n the end of it, over tightenin them smaller blades ain't necessary. Ya should be able to hold yer blades in place with dandy tension.

With my techniques, I ain't havin' any issues with my Hawk or CW - 40.

 

 

 

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I was wondering about something. Are the ends bending or are they being "twisted" as the clamp screws are being tightened? Could it be that the clamp screws are not flat and parallel to the faces of the anvil screws? If I were you, I'd get on the phone with Pegas and have a talk. You might have a defective set of clamp screws or clamps. Something doesn't make sense.

 

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