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Paint removal from excaliber 21


decker7

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How old is the Excalibur? 

My Excalibur has a silver / grey painted table.. and yes the paint doesn't stay on the table after a hundred or so hours use it's wearing off.. But I've not had any issue with it getting on my projects.. My saw is I believe to be a 2017 model.. I think they painted them all for most of the years they was made.. but I never seen a black table one..  The new Jet 18" saw has a black table and maybe the new Pegas? 

As for taking the paint off.. I'd use either two options.. sand it off with a orbital sander.. and make sure to hold it flat to the table surface.. don't get into a hurry and angle the sander to the edge like i see a lot of folks do.. doing that will just create a un-flat surface which will drive you crazy when trying to saw.. Other option is to use a aircraft paint remover and soak it down good... then use a hard plastic scraper and scrape it away... going that route.. I'd remove the table so you don't get the stuff dripping off the table into other parts of the saw.. probably still need to sand the table smooth and apply a good coat of Johnson paste wax.. and keep it waxed or it'll rust.. 

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Thinking that might be the black primer... Mine is reaching that point in a few spots.. 

If you don't care too much about the appearance you could seal that off with some good clear coat spray.. Automotive urethane spray on the table would last a long time I think.. if you could get your hands on some anyway.. They have gotten pretty strict about selling automotive type coatings ( the good stuff anyway, not the cheap touch up paints ) to the general public in some areas.. The stuff they put on these is ( I believe) some fairly cheap paint.. A quality powder coating would even be better yet..

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24 minutes ago, woodduck said:

I think the sheet I purchased was 0.8 mm in thickness

Mine is 0.30 mil, not sure what translates to in mm

I got this one and now have extra for when it needs replacing or for another machine

https://www.amazon.com/Wall26-30mil-Strong-Flexible-Material/dp/B01GQ048EQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=magnetic+sheet&qid=1566685695&s=gateway&sr=8-6

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20 minutes ago, Rockytime said:

I can't use magnetic coverings as my table is aluminum. Aluminum scuffs the back of my wood. It is just what aluminum does. Powder coating would be nice. I can live with the scuffing on the back. Machining a lot of aluminum used to make my fingers black. Just sayin'.

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If I keep my table waxed good I don't get that with my Hawks.. Might also be because I sand my work down both sides to about 320 grit.. 

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18 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

If I keep my table waxed good I don't get that with my Hawks.. Might also be because I sand my work down both sides to about 320 grit.. 

I waxed the table quite well but it still did it. Not a problem for me. My friend's son-in-law is a paint and body man. He would probably shoot it with clear coat if I asked.

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10 hours ago, Rockytime said:

I can't use magnetic coverings as my table is aluminum. Aluminum scuffs the back of my wood. It is just what aluminum does. Powder coating would be nice. I can live with the scuffing on the back. Machining a lot of aluminum used to make my fingers black. Just sayin'.

 

Double sided tape?

Funny thing when I put  a refrigerator magnet on the excaliber table it didn't appear to stick well, so I figured double sided tape if nothing else.  But when I cut the sheet and laid it on the table, it stuck immediately.

Before this I had 1/8th inch hard board on there, that worked too.  My main reason was I wanted a single hole for the blade and not all those vacuum holes that are on the excaliber.  And I am too lazy to fill them with bondo and sand as some others I talked to did

Edited by JimErn
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