Spray Adhesive question

[OzarkSawdust]

What are you guys using for spay adhesive to hold patterns down while cutting? This is what I had around from a stencil project several months ago. It doesn't come out real smooth and I think it was expensive at Hobby Lobby.

Also what size drill bit do I need for pin end blades. I could just try some...but thought you guys would know off the top of your head. Thanks

[Scrappile]

I use 3M 77 spray adhesive.  That saw takes pinless blades doesn't it?  That is the way to go...

Edited August 30, 2019 by Scrappile

[Bill WIlson]

I've been using Loctite 100 General Performance Spray Adhesive.  It's about the cheapest I could find around here and it works fine, for me.  I get it at Lowes.

As for pin end blades, don't be surprised if you don't get too many answers.  Most scrollers don't use pin end blades.  Plain end blades are almost universally preferred and come in a lot more variety of sizes and tooth configurations.  If you must use a pin end and the fret is small, use the smallest drill that will allow the pin end to pass through.  If space is no issue, use whatever size is handy.

[OCtoolguy]

When I first started, I bought a can of the 3M77. It works great but it is expensive and the can is huge and heavy. I did find a small can of Elmer's that my wife had bought for something she was doing. I prefer it because it's small, lightweight and seems to work just as well as the 3M77.  I also use the full page size peel and stick shipping labels that can be run through my printer. Just print pattern directly on the label, peel and stick. They hold very well and don't seem to leave any residue behind. You're going to eventually ask about how to remove your patterns. Most folks here use mineral spirits to moisten the patterns and then peel them off. I use a heat gun. Just warm the pattern until you can pick up a corner/edge and continue heating it as you pull it off. A light sanding will take off any residue or you can lightly wipe with a mineral spirits wet rag. Just be careful what you do with the rag once you are finished. Lay them out flat somewhere outdoors to dry out. They will combust if left in a pile. Good luck with your scrolling and if you love it as much as we all do, try to get into a better saw that uses plain end blades. The pin end blades will not allow you to use the very tiny blades that we all use. They are very limiting. I don't mean to give you the impression that I am any sort of expert but these are all questions that I have asked before.

 

[OzarkSawdust]

Thanks all! The print on a label idea sounds good. I used my heat gun the other day on my "first born" but I think I have mineral spirits in the shop from other projects. Yes you definitely want to let the rag dry out flat or hanging! My WEN has adapters to use pinless blades but I haven't tried those yet. I did get a package of Olson blades. 

[ike]

I use krylon I buy at michales  with a 40% of coupon it is about $5.50 per can and it holds good

IKE

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, OzarkSawdust said:

Thanks all! The print on a label idea sounds good. I used my heat gun the other day on my "first born" but I think I have mineral spirits in the shop from other projects. Yes you definitely want to let the rag dry out flat or hanging! My WEN has adapters to use pinless blades but I haven't tried those yet. I did get a package of Olson blades. 

The Wen is a great little saw but if you fall in love with this hobby, you'll soon want to move up to a saw with less vibration and dedicated plain end blades. We are glad you are here and asking questions because other novice scrollers will learn from them.

 

[heppnerguy]

5 hours ago, OzarkSawdust said:

What are you guys using for spay adhesive to hold patterns down while cutting? This is what I had around from a stencil project several months ago. It doesn't come out real smooth and I think it was expensive at Hobby Lobby.

Also what size drill bit do I need for pin end blades. I could just try some...but thought you guys would know off the top of your head. Thanks

The spray you have should work fine, I would imagine.  Two things for you to do if you are going to use this item. First..sand your board well and clean all sawdust off of it. Most scrollers like to then cover the board with blue painters tape. Then take the spray button off the top of your can and immerse it in paint remover or mineral spirits for about 30 seconds. remove spray button and wipe it clean. Replace it on the can, (make sure you have the spray button facing away from you when you replace it)  Shake your can and then point it at a waste basket or piece of scrap cardboard and give is a couple of squirts. This should return your spray to like new.  Then spray the back of you pattern with a couple of light passes. You do not want too much glue on the pattern. Let  sit 45 seconds of a little more and apply it you the blue painters tape of your chosen wood for your project. I hope this helps you

Dick

heppnerguy

[OzarkSawdust]

46 minutes ago, heppnerguy said:

The spray you have should work fine, I would imagine.  Two things for you to do if you are going to use this item. First..sand your board well and clean all sawdust off of it. Most scrollers like to then cover the board with blue painters tape. Then take the spray button off the top of your can and immerse it in paint remover or mineral spirits for about 30 seconds. remove spray button and wipe it clean. Replace it on the can, (make sure you have the spray button facing away from you when you replace it)  Shake your can and then point it at a waste basket or piece of scrap cardboard and give is a couple of squirts. This should return your spray to like new.  Then spray the back of you pattern with a couple of light passes. You do not want too much glue on the pattern. Let  sit 45 seconds of a little more and apply it you the blue painters tape of your chosen wood for your project. I hope this helps you

Dick

heppnerguy

Thanks Dick! The blue painters tape is a great idea!

[Scrappile]

Gary, I just wanted to add, this site has tons of info.  Check out the resources area (tap at the top of the page and also this there is the pattern library.  There are tons of patterns from simple to very detailed.  ALL FREE.  Take a little time and do some exploring of the site.  So much here.

[jollyred]

I just use the cheapest spray adhesive I can find when I need it.  As far as the pin end blades, one of the tricks with them that I got from Pat Spielman was to grind down the ends of the pins so you can use a smaller drill bit for the entry holes.  I've never had a pin end blade, so I don't know how much can be ground off before they don't work anymore.  Just something to keep in mind.

[Hermit]

I also use the super 77 over blue painters tape. I have found that waiting 24 hrs or over night after applying the pattern that I've not had a pattern even begin to lift up. Starting to cut shortly after applying the pattern it does lift up. 

[OCtoolguy]

15 hours ago, jollyred said:

I just use the cheapest spray adhesive I can find when I need it.  As far as the pin end blades, one of the tricks with them that I got from Pat Spielman was to grind down the ends of the pins so you can use a smaller drill bit for the entry holes.  I've never had a pin end blade, so I don't know how much can be ground off before they don't work anymore.  Just something to keep in mind.

Re: pin end blades, I heard of a trick where you remove the pins from the blades allowing for a smaller hole. Then you insert a safety pin through the pin hole after putting the blade through the hole. It sounds like it should work.

 

[Foxfold]

2 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Then you insert a safety pin through the pin hole after putting the blade through the hole. It sounds like it should work.

Must confess, as a Mother that has used a 'lot' of safety pins in my time, I'm not convinced that they would hold up to the pressure and movement of a scrollsaw.  I stand to be corrected, but JMHO.. xx

Edited August 31, 2019 by Foxfold

[OCtoolguy]

1 hour ago, Foxfold said:

Must confess, as a Mother that has used a 'lot' of safety pins in my time, I'm not convinced that they would hold up to the pressure and movement of a scrollsaw.  I stand to be corrected, but JMHO.. xx

Have ya ever tried to break a safety pin? They are tough.

 

[Foxfold]

19 hours ago, octoolguy said:

Have ya ever tried to break a safety pin? They are tough.

They are 'tough' to break but easy to bend so that the 'pin' slips out of the catch. Just my experience, not saying it wouldn't work, I've never had reason to try

[OCtoolguy]

2 hours ago, Foxfold said:

They are 'tough' to break but easy to bend so that the 'pin' slips out of the catch. Just my experience, not saying it wouldn't work, I've never had reason to try

Well, I suppose you could use a small brad but most everybody has a safety pin nearby so that's why they are popular I guess. I've never had to use one either.

 

[Wichman]

Back in the day I started with a Sears 13" saw with 3 " pin end blades. I used safety pins for a couple of years, they work fine. Also, using a drill press you can drill two small holes close together to form a slot for the blade to fit into.

I cut one of these with that 13" saw:

 

basket 1

[OCtoolguy]

13 hours ago, Wichman said:

Back in the day I started with a Sears 13" saw with 3 " pin end blades. I used safety pins for a couple of years, they work fine. Also, using a drill press you can drill two small holes close together to form a slot for the blade to fit into.

I cut one of these with that 13" saw:

 

basket 1 611.59 kB · 2 downloads

Very nice Wichman. I would have to think that with a better saw your work now must be magnificent. Just goes to show that it's the craftsman and not his tools that make the difference.

 

[Wichman]

Better tools make it so much easier and faster though.