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What a difference a blade makes!


Scruffydog

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So I was cutting circles with my Delta and the blade sprung out of the bottom holder. Good time to change blades so I actually know what I'm using. I was cutting pine, and the pre sprung blade was wandering all over the place. Very difficult to follow the line. I put a PS SuperSharp 7 blade in and WOW, what a difference. Not only was the blade not wandering, but the quality of the cut was incredible.

So I guess what the posts say about using the good blade is true. I am a believer now...

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43 minutes ago, Scruffydog said:

So I was cutting circles with my Delta and the blade sprung out of the bottom holder. Good time to change blades so I actually know what I'm using. I was cutting pine, and the pre sprung blade was wandering all over the place. Very difficult to follow the line. I put a PS SuperSharp 7 blade in and WOW, what a difference. Not only was the blade not wandering, but the quality of the cut was incredible.

So I guess what the posts say about using the good blade is true. I am a believer now...

Not only a good name brand blade... But also a new sharp blade.. Typically a blade starts getting dull after only about 15-20 minutes of cutting.. as you gain more experience with cutting and blade types and cutting material types.. You'll learn when it's a good time to change the blade.. When I first started scroll sawing.. I thought a blade should last several days... or at least several hours.. I was amazed at how fast a blade dulled over time... so don't expect a new blade to last for long.. It does depend on what you're cutting.. Plywood eats up the blades pretty quick due to the glues etc in the ply.. but even cutting soft and hardwood.. blades don't last long at all..  

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13 minutes ago, GrampaJim said:

The hardest thing for me to learn was to change blades often.  I am a cheap skate and throwing away a "good" blade seemed just wrong.  Do it anyway.

Me too... Something I also did at first being a cheap skate I used to turn blades upside down to wear out both ends of the blade.. but what really happen is.. a rough looking project once I pulled the pattern off etc.. So i learn that in reality... blades are very cheap compared to hours spent behind a saw and a ruined project.. the blades are just pocket change for each one.. and it's not worth ruining several hours labor... not to mention the cost of the now scrap wood, LOL 

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10 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

Me too... Something I also did at first being a cheap skate I used to turn blades upside down to wear out both ends of the blade.. but what really happen is.. a rough looking project once I pulled the pattern off etc.. So i learn that in reality... blades are very cheap compared to hours spent behind a saw and a ruined project.. the blades are just pocket change for each one.. and it's not worth ruining several hours labor... not to mention the cost of the now scrap wood, LOL 

The cost of a blade compared to time sanding fuzzies, there is no question.

Like Gillette used to say in their ads, "A new blade make a man feel fine".😁

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my apologies,  but I ain't able to say as I've ever run across a "pre-sprung blade."  In my experience, especially cuttin' pine, I always start with a new blade, regardless of the situation. When I install a blade, the first thing I have learned to do is adjust a minimal amount of tension on the new blade & run it for 30 seconds or so, then adjust the tension to my preference, & make sawdust. 

I've found by doin' this, it "stretches" the blade, & helps to hold tension longer, and the blade lasts a little longer, as well. 

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3 hours ago, SCROLLSAW703 said:

 When I install a blade, the first thing I have learned to do is adjust a minimal amount of tension on the new blade & run it for 30 seconds or so, then adjust the tension to my preference, & make sawdust. 

I've found by doin' this, it "stretches" the blade, & helps to hold tension longer, and the blade lasts a little longer, as well. 

I do that too, surprises me how much stretch I encounter, though it is not consistent, some stretch more then others from the same bunch.  I just use normal tension though.

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On 9/6/2019 at 4:22 AM, SCROLLSAW703 said:

When I install a blade, the first thing I have learned to do is adjust a minimal amount of tension on the new blade & run it for 30 seconds or so, then adjust the tension to my preference, & make sawdust. 

I've found by doin' this, it "stretches" the blade, & helps to hold tension longer, and the blade lasts a little longer, as well. 

This was a trick I used to do with nichrome wire for L-sealers in shrink wrap systems. It stretches the wire and straightens it, making it last longer and easier to install. Impulse sealers heat the wire fast and very hot, causing the wire to quickly droop if you don't pre-stretch it. Heat always causes thin metals to stretch. Will have to do this, as with others I wondered why blades would slacken with initial use.

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