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Boxes with inlay


Dave Monk

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Fantastic work on both!! That round box is really unique and interesting! I love the Harley box!! 

Newbie got to ask...how did you make the lid? I can think of a number of designs that would look really cool. With the mirror image on the inside, it almost looks as if there is a sandwich layer of dark wood in the middle...? It's a beautiful box.

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34 minutes ago, JimErn said:

Dave, @Dave Monk, The lid on the harley box fascinates me.  I'm just starting with inlay but when I do it, there is no way the inlay is flush on both sides.

Did you sand the bottom down to make it flush, or use a thicker wood for the inlay part?  or?

Jim, I use 3/8" for both pieces. If I go much thicker my results don't come out near as good.  I used a #63 drill bit, #3 Pegas MGT blade, and set my saw at 1.7 degrees. I check the fit of my pieces as I go and if they start to feel a bit too tight I will change my blade. I think I went through about three blades on that one. I use a lot of soft maple and walnut together which makes easy cutting.

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3 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

Jim, I use 3/8" for both pieces. If I go much thicker my results don't come out near as good.  I used a #63 drill bit, #3 Pegas MGT blade, and set my saw at 1.7 degrees. I check the fit of my pieces as I go and if they start to feel a bit too tight I will change my blade. I think I went through about three blades on that one. I use a lot of soft maple and walnut together which makes easy cutting.

I've been dickering with the angle, I am at 1.8 right now with 3/8 stock and the inlay sits in the just a shade proud.  maybe 1/32 of an inch proud, makes for a tight fit with a tap from a rubber mallet, and then sanding then takes it down the rest of the way.

I would think that at your 1.7 setting it would sit slightly lower, but evidently not, I will try that on the next one.  I too use a MGT #3

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3 hours ago, JimErn said:

I've been dickering with the angle, I am at 1.8 right now with 3/8 stock and the inlay sits in the just a shade proud.  maybe 1/32 of an inch proud, makes for a tight fit with a tap from a rubber mallet, and then sanding then takes it down the rest of the way.

I would think that at your 1.7 setting it would sit slightly lower, but evidently not, I will try that on the next one.  I too use a MGT #3

Jim, When I do a test I like my piece to go in 1/16" to far. I use quite a bit of glue all around the piece. That will pretty well take up the slack. There are times when I change my blade and my pieces don't fit quite as well. My guess is that the kerf is just a bit different.

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9 hours ago, OzarkSawdust said:

Fantastic work on both!! That round box is really unique and interesting! I love the Harley box!! 

Newbie got to ask...how did you make the lid? I can think of a number of designs that would look really cool. With the mirror image on the inside, it almost looks as if there is a sandwich layer of dark wood in the middle...? It's a beautiful box.

It is a technique called double bevel inlay. You can find a video I did in the tutorial section  on page 2. Jim Flynn (who is an expert at it) also has a tutorial there.

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9 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

Jim, When I do a test I like my piece to go in 1/16" to far. I use quite a bit of glue all around the piece. That will pretty well take up the slack. There are times when I change my blade and my pieces don't fit quite as well. My guess is that the kerf is just a bit different.

If the inlay goes in below the surface and you use "quite a bit of glue", are you mixing wood paste glue and using that, while keeping the inlay flush with the surface?

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20 minutes ago, JimErn said:

If the inlay goes in below the surface and you use "quite a bit of glue", are you mixing wood paste glue and using that, while keeping the inlay flush with the surface?

I have to push it to go below the surface. When I put on the glue it is pretty well flush.  That is when everything is working as it should. I do not mix wood glue and saw dust for filler. I use the solvent base Famowood. It comes in different colors to match my wood species. For me it is easier than making it.

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24 minutes ago, Dave Monk said:

I have to push it to go below the surface. When I put on the glue it is pretty well flush.  That is when everything is working as it should. I do not mix wood glue and saw dust for filler. I use the solvent base Famowood. It comes in different colors to match my wood species. For me it is easier than making it.

Didn’t know about Famowood. Have to get some. 

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