I Broke My Antler!

[OzarkSawdust]

Started another pattern last night. Got the antlers cut...and they broke. 1/4 birch plywood, Olson pinless 5RG blade. What did I do wrong

[Denny Knappen]

My guess, the #5 blade is too large for 1/4" plywood.  I would use a #1.

[trackman]

Not a lot of wood to hold together at that spot. I try to hold a weak spot with my finger as I cut. This will help keep the wood from vibrating and the blade from pulling it up. 

[OzarkSawdust]

29 minutes ago, Denny Knappen said:

My guess, the #5 blade is too large for 1/4" plywood.  I would use a #1.

Like that Pegas MGT #1 on your site? 

[Denny Knappen]

49 minutes ago, OzarkSawdust said:

Like that Pegas MGT #1 on your site? 

I still use FD UR #1 blades.  Lots on hand.

[OCtoolguy]

And on the 8th day, God created "super glue". 

 

[Wilson142]

were you using a zero clearance fix of some sort?

2 hours ago, trackman said:

Not a lot of wood to hold together at that spot. I try to hold a weak spot with my finger as I cut. This will help keep the wood from vibrating and the blade from pulling it up. 

I've given my self many scroll saw manicures over the years.  lol

[Wilson142]

Maybe try some tape or a playing card to create a zero clearance fix. Is that 3-ply or 5-ply?  If it's the dreaded underlayment stuff you have to take the bad with the good. 

[RabidAlien]

Looks like you cut the outside of the antlers, then looped back around to the inside.  That means all the stress of blade vibration/pressure sits on the tiny connection piece.  I try to find all the little islands and cut around those first, then loop back around the outside.

 

Looking at it another way, if the thick black line is a river, cut the part that touches the inside of the antlers first.  That way, you have all the rest of the piece of wood to help provide stability to the weak bridges.  Coming back around the other side of the river, the antler points still have the rest of your project for support.

 

Its a hard lesson to learn.     All is not lost, though....wood glue is your friend!

[JimErn]

for those delicate cuts, where my finger just does not fit, I cut this and use it.

Poor pic but the curved part extends past the line of the "handle", allows pressure to be applied easily

[sawdust1]

Great idea. Thanks for posting it for us.

 

Bob

Edited September 11, 2019 by sawdust1

[heppnerguy]

Like is mentioned above. Start with the smaller inside cuts and work outside cuts last. that way the smaller inside cuts have more support when cutting. We all have wood pieces that break out on us from time to time. Just think of it as more practice opportunity as your start to recut another one. Blade suggestions are good here. Use smaller blades and let the blade do the cutting. Don't force the corners with pressure on the piece by the blade. Slow down on the curves. Also I would use a smaller drill bit so that the wood on the bottom of the piece does not tare out into the finished project. 

Dick

heppnerguy

[Jim McDonald]

Yet another suggestion, try slowing the blade some in the delicate areas. Go maybe 50% slower. There is a lot of stress on the wood being hammered by the motion of the blade.

[stoney]

6 hours ago, OzarkSawdust said:

Started another pattern last night. Got the antlers cut...and they broke. 1/4 birch plywood, Olson pinless 5RG blade. What did I do wrong

You say birch plywood.  If it is not Baltic birch plywood it might have a cheap core rather than wood plies.  A smaller blade may help but my suggestion would be a better grade of material.   Baltic birch plywood would be stronger and more forgiving.   

[Dave Monk]

Any time I cut 1/8" or 1/4" I always stack cut at least 2.

[Rockytime]

I'm cutting some 1/4" genuine Baltic birch. Very tiny cuts. I'm using a 2/0 Pegas MG blade at 1100 spm. My experience has been higher speed and very gentle feed. I generally use a #5 pmg on 1" pine from HD.  When I slow down the speed I tend to try and feed too hard making it difficult to control the blade. This is not really a suggestion, just what works for me.

[OzarkSawdust]

5 hours ago, Wilson142 said:

Maybe try some tape or a playing card to create a zero clearance fix. Is that 3-ply or 5-ply?  If it's the dreaded underlayment stuff you have to take the bad with the good. 

no zero clearance. Don't know the #ply. I'll look tomorrow.

[OzarkSawdust]

2 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

Any time I cut 1/8" or 1/4" I always stack cut at least 2.

Haven't tried stack cut yet. What's the best wat to put the layers together to cut, and hot to separate without damage?

[Dave Monk]

35 minutes ago, OzarkSawdust said:

Haven't tried stack cut yet. What's the best wat to put the layers together to cut, and hot to separate without damage?

I use use hot glue on the edges.  I think some use blue tape.

[Hermit]

11 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

8 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

I use use hot glue on the edges.  I think some use blue tape

Dave, I'm going to try stack cutting on my next piece. When you hot glue the edges how do you separate the pieces when done? Table saw? Or would the piece be to delicate? Ever had the hot glue fail and separate while cutting?

 

[JimErn]

Like Dave I use hot glue on the edges too, a razor knife takes them right off if the pattern requires leaving the border

[OzarkSawdust]

On 9/11/2019 at 2:43 PM, Wilson142 said:

Maybe try some tape or a playing card to create a zero clearance fix. Is that 3-ply or 5-ply?  If it's the dreaded underlayment stuff you have to take the bad with the good. 

This is what I'm using now. Picked up a 2'x4' at Lowe's the other day. I haven't ever used this before. Looks a little strange to me...is this what you're using?

 

[Wilson142]

3 hours ago, OzarkSawdust said:

This is what I'm using now. Picked up a 2'x4' at Lowe's the other day. I haven't ever used this before. Looks a little strange to me...is this what you're using?

Not a good choice for anything intricate. Not very stable. I have some that was leftover from a flooring job and I do use it but, it is a gamble. I would try to find some Baltic Birch 5-ply plywood. It's far more stable. I get it locally for $2.50  a 1/4" 12 x 12 piece. Cheaper if I buy a 60" x 60" sheet. They will custom cut for a price. Check the resources section, E bay, Amazon etc. You'll enjoy that stuff.

That being said, if you're a gambler,  like I tend to be, you can get away with underlayment sometimes. I just posted 2 Santa Clauses in my gallery that were both cut from the same stuff you posted pictures of. I have more time than money and I don't cut to sell, so if I lose a project due to inferior wood, I just move on. lol

 

 

[OzarkSawdust]

42 minutes ago, Wilson142 said:

 

???  Your post just showed my statement...did you mean to reply? 

[OCtoolguy]

That looks like underlayment. Only 3 layers. Get some real B/BB plywood. Big difference.