Staying on the line

[OzarkSawdust]

I've noticed that when I'm making a cut, be it straight or a gentle curve, the blade wants to wander off to the right as ( I'm looking at it ) and I have to turn the piece a lot to get it back on track. 

Is it something I'm doing? An adjustment to the WEN? Just a screwball blade?  It's a struggle to keep it going on the line. 

[trackman]

Some blades ( Flying Dutchman) will do that. It is the way they are made that causes that. You will learn to adjust for it an not even think about it. The Pegas blades don’t do this as much. 

[Scrappile]

You have drift to compensate for, just like on a bandsaw (drift may not be the correct term for it).  The saw blades are stamped out as I understand it and the points are ever so slightly to the right.  So it pulls to the right a little.  If you are having it a lot, than check for proper tension, blade alignment or dull blade,,, maybe.

[OCtoolguy]

I use nothing but Pegas and I have not run into that problem. But with that said, I decided to try some of my FD blades and it only took me one try to hustle right back to my Pegas #5 mgt.

 

[Bill WIlson]

Compensating for blade drift is just something you get accustomed to, if you use many of the common brands/types of scroll saw blades.  The manufacturing process of common blades will leave a slight burr on one side of the teeth, which makes them a little more aggressive on that side and they will drift (usually the right).  All I do is move my chair over a little to the right of the saw, which changes my angle of approach to the blade.  

[OCtoolguy]

While we are on the subject of blades/drift/kerf etc, when I bought my used EX, I also got all the blades the seller had, with it. Well, I thought I'd struck gold as there were about 2 dozen packages of the PS brand that sell for about $10/doz. I have tried them and they do cut well but still have the same drift problems that I encountered with the FD. So, I don't know about what everybody else thinks but it would be a cold day in Hades before I'd pay that kind of money for blades that are no better than the far cheaper ones that we all use. I only wish that I had found out about the Pegas blades before investing the money that I have in FD and Olsen. I guess that is just part of the learning curve.

 

[Scrappile]

I think it is more related to personal preference.  There are only two Pegas blades I like, the rest I have tried, were just not my thing for the kind of scrolling I like to do.  I keep going back to FD.  If I get into other types of scrolling, that may change.

[don in brooklin on]

My go to blade is still FD.  I have tried Pegas MGT and could not cut a square corner at all.  I do a lot of key chains and so it was and issue.

Went back to Fd-UR and not an problem.  I think the MGT are just a little more aggressive.

I have come to the conclusion that most blades are basically the same it is just what you get used to.  I have friends who will only use Olsen hate FD and MGT.

Practice with one blade and it will become your favorite BEST blade ever.

 

Don

PS:   I buy FD blades by the gross and they cost me only $4 a doz CDN with shipping.  Pegas from Canada cost nearly $7.  Maybe my Scotch blood sways my opinion too.

 

 

[SCROLLSAW703]

FD & Olson blades both have just a "touch" of a right hand pull. 

To help compensate fer yer pull, 1) square blade to saw deck. 2) pre - stretch yer blades. 3) adjust yer tension just a little tighter than ya would normally. 

Yer blade speed will have some to do with yer pull as well on accounta yer blade is cuttin faster'n ya can react. Always be lookin at yer pattern lines ahead of ya so's ya got an idea of what's comin atcha, then ya got time to plan a reaction to move a little more right, or little bit left. 

 

[OCtoolguy]

58 minutes ago, don in brooklin on said:

My go to blade is still FD.  I have tried Pegas MGT and could not cut a square corner at all.  I do a lot of key chains and so it was and issue.

Went back to Fd-UR and not an problem.  I think the MGT are just a little more aggressive.

I have come to the conclusion that most blades are basically the same it is just what you get used to.  I have friends who will only use Olsen hate FD and MGT.

Practice with one blade and it will become your favorite BEST blade ever.

 

Don

PS:   I buy FD blades by the gross and they cost me only $4 a doz CDN with shipping.  Pegas from Canada cost nearly $7.  Maybe my Scotch blood sways my opinion too.

 

 

Well said. I haven't used that many FD blades but I just know that when I tried to switch between the Pegas #5 mgt and the FDUR #5, it was a real eye-opener. That FD blade was just uncontrollable to me. But, at some point, I'll give them another try. Baskin Robbins again.

 

[dgman]

The blade drift will occur on most blades except the Pegas MG blade and Olson PG blades. It’s the first thing I teach my students, how to compensate for the drift. It’s something most of us learn on our own, and soon becomes second nature to compensate for.

i tried the Pegas MG blades. I didn’t find them any better then the Flying Dutchman UR blade and didn’t see any reason to change over. In fact I just placed an order for more FD blades. If you order direct from Mikes Workshop site online, you get free shipping. If you order from Wooden Teddy bear, even online, you pay for shipping.

[Wilson142]

On 9/22/2019 at 2:42 PM, OzarkSawdust said:

I've noticed that when I'm making a cut, be it straight or a gentle curve, the blade wants to wander off to the right as ( I'm looking at it ) and I have to turn the piece a lot to get it back on track. 

Is it something I'm doing? An adjustment to the WEN? Just a screwball blade?  It's a struggle to keep it going on the line. 

When it is critical to stay on the line. I crank up Johnny Cash "I walk the line", slam a double shot of Jack Daniels and if that doesn't work, rinse  and repeat.

[kmmcrafts]

I swap back and fourth between the FD-UR blades and Pegas MG blades.. Also like Olsen PGT and Mach speed blades.. Not a fan of the skip tooth blades etc. Do flip around between brands with the spirals as well.. Like FD- SR blades as well but do not like any of the other styles of Pegas other than the MG and the spirals.. But that all said all this might sound crazy to read how I flip blades and for one it does depend sometimes on what saw I'm running.. each saw is tuned differently. Also understand that I saw a lot and sometimes it gets boring and I like to be challenged a bit now and then.... so switching up from a blade that cuts straight to a blade that's a few degrees off makes it interesting again,  

[Scrappile]

I'm curious, Pegas blades have not been around long.  What did you guys do about "drift" before Pegas?  I don't even notice it anymore, I so use to it.  The same effect is in a band saw, something wood workers took for granted for a long time.  Now it is an issue?

[Wilson142]

45 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

I'm curious, Pegas blades have not been around long.  What did you guys do about "drift" before Pegas?  I don't even notice it anymore, I so use to it.  The same effect is in a band saw, something wood workers took for granted for a long time.  Now it is an issue?

It took several re reads for me to realize what you were asking. At least I think I have it. I never gave any thought to "drift" until someone actually put a name to it. I simply expected that I would have to concentrate more when making some cuts. Both scrolling and on the band saw. I used to avoid patterns that had many parallel straight lines or curves that were close together because any deviations stuck out like a sore thumb. I still have to give a lot of thought about patterns with a lot of lettering, because poorly executed letters also are very obvious. 

That's my take on it unless that isn't what you meant. If that's the case, as Gilda Radner  News Lady  used to say "never mind".

[tgiro]

I used FD blades exclusively before migrating to the Pegas blades. I still have dozens of them, but haven't bought any since Mike died. The FD's do have a slight right hand drift to them. When I'm running top speed, I can be feeding a board about 30° of true.

I like the Pegas MG blades, but they are much more aggressive than standard polar or skip-tooth blades. The FD-UR blades come close and I still like those. I forget who bought out Mike's business when he finally retired. I know Mike's Workshop website still exists. I used to stop by and see him on my trips out to the Black Hills (SD).

[WoodCutter]

I read quite awhile ago that drift can be help by puttin a fine file or stone again the right back side of the running blade.  I have done this to blades that are real bad and it helped.

1 hour ago, Wilson142 said:

If that's the case, as Gilda Radner  News Lady  used to say "never mind".

you are tellin u an mine ages

[Scrappile]

12 hours ago, Scrappile said:

I'm curious, Pegas blades have not been around long.  What did you guys do about "drift" before Pegas?  I don't even notice it anymore, I so use to it.  The same effect is in a band saw, something wood workers took for granted for a long time.  Now it is an issue?

 

11 hours ago, tgiro said:

I used FD blades exclusively before migrating to the Pegas blades. I still have dozens of them, but haven't bought any since Mike died. The FD's do have a slight right hand drift to them. When I'm running top speed, I can be feeding a board about 30° of true.

I like the Pegas MG blades, but they are much more aggressive than standard polar or skip-tooth blades. The FD-UR blades come close and I still like those. I forget who bought out Mike's business when he finally retired. I know Mike's Workshop website still exists. I used to stop by and see him on my trips out to the Black Hills (SD).

"Wooden Teddy Bear" owns Mike's Workshop.

I have nothing against the Pegas blades, for sure they are good blades.  The MG ones are just to aggressive for me when I cut detailed fretwork.  I am old and slow and I us the FD Penguin Silver blades for that.  Me and them just poke along...one hole at a time.  I would not be good for production work.

I have plans on doing some more 3D cutting, and I will probably go to the Pegas MG blades for that.  I am still trying to figure out what they mean by "Modified Geometry".  What did they modify??  I notice some of their blades seem to have a sort of downward hook to them,, is that it?

Edited September 24, 2019 by Scrappile

[Wilson142]

10 hours ago, WoodCutter said:

I read quite awhile ago that drift can be help by puttin a fine file or stone again the right back side of the running blade.  I have done this to blades that are real bad and it helped.

you are tellin u an mine ages

Yeah, I wish some wise person would have been around back than to tell me,  "enjoy yourself son, these are the good old days you'll think of in years to come!" 

[OCtoolguy]

15 hours ago, Wilson142 said:

When it is critical to stay on the line. I crank up Johnny Cash "I walk the line", slam a double shot of Jack Daniels and if that doesn't work, rinse  and repeat.

Makers Mark has the same effect.

[Wilson142]

1 hour ago, octoolguy said:

Makers Mark has the same effect.

True, and in a slightly smoother way. A bit more pricey here but why not treat yourself?        Another solution, the owner of my favorite Italian deli says, just give them plenty of vino while you're cooking and they'll love it no matter what you cook.

[OCtoolguy]

18 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

I swap back and fourth between the FD-UR blades and Pegas MG blades.. Also like Olsen PGT and Mach speed blades.. Not a fan of the skip tooth blades etc. Do flip around between brands with the spirals as well.. Like FD- SR blades as well but do not like any of the other styles of Pegas other than the MG and the spirals.. But that all said all this might sound crazy to read how I flip blades and for one it does depend sometimes on what saw I'm running.. each saw is tuned differently. Also understand that I saw a lot and sometimes it gets boring and I like to be challenged a bit now and then.... so switching up from a blade that cuts straight to a blade that's a few degrees off makes it interesting again,  

You must keep a notebook close by to be able to remember which blade goes with which saw when cutting which wood. Life is too short for me to get THAT involved. It's still just a hobby.

 

[OCtoolguy]

17 hours ago, Scrappile said:

I'm curious, Pegas blades have not been around long.  What did you guys do about "drift" before Pegas?  I don't even notice it anymore, I so use to it.  The same effect is in a band saw, something wood workers took for granted for a long time.  Now it is an issue?

Paul, you have a simple way of bringing "focus" to every topic. You are so right. I guess once you find something that works and seems to solve a known problem, that becomes the "right" way to go. Bottom line, whatever blows your skirt up I guess.

 

[kmmcrafts]

34 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

You must keep a notebook close by to be able to remember which blade goes with which saw when cutting which wood. Life is too short for me to get THAT involved. It's still just a hobby.

 

Quite honestly now days.. I pretty much use Pegas.. I didn't like the Pegas on the DeWalt at first as it was a aggressive cutting saw.. but did eventually get used to using them with the DeWalt before I sold it and got the new Hawk..  

[Sycamore67]

I do not worry about drift or try to compensate  for it.   I concentrate on cutting on the line and turning the wood in whatever direction I need to do so.  Sometimes with Intarsia, I cut on one side of the line or the other.  If you cut every piece on the line, you will not get a good fit.