Blade Shreaking

[rash_powder]

I was cutting a trivet last night, about 7 1/4" diameter, from 3/4" poplar and came across a puzzling sound.  

As I cut around my circle and the decorations within, I found that as I went across the grain - dead perpendicular - no unusual sounds.  However, as soon as I started cutting even a little bit with the grain, the blade began to sing/shreak louder and louder, peaking when going dead with the grain.  Several different blades of differing tooth counts/configurations did this.  It doesn't appear that anything was binding or slipping while the shreak was happening, and holding a finger nail against the back of the blade did not seem to help.  

Has anyone else experienced this?  Its not affecting performance, but I would love for it to not shreak.  Its bad enough I should wear ear plugs.  

Thanks!

[OCtoolguy]

18 hours ago, rash_powder said:

I was cutting a trivet last night, about 7 1/4" diameter, from 3/4" poplar and came across a puzzling sound.  

As I cut around my circle and the decorations within, I found that as I went across the grain - dead perpendicular - no unusual sounds.  However, as soon as I started cutting even a little bit with the grain, the blade began to sing/shreak louder and louder, peaking when going dead with the grain.  Several different blades of differing tooth counts/configurations did this.  It doesn't appear that anything was binding or slipping while the shreak was happening, and holding a finger nail against the back of the blade did not seem to help.  

Has anyone else experienced this?  Its not affecting performance, but I would love for it to not shreak.  Its bad enough I should wear ear plugs.  

Thanks!

First of all, welcome to the Village. Now, as to your problem, we might need a bit more info. And pics are always helpful. So, what brand/type of saw do you have, what blades and what wood? These all need to be answered. I know that I will hear different sounds when I'm cutting with or across the grain but not to the extent that you mention. Please add on here and we'll try to help. And the answer/s might help someone else who has had the same experience. 

 

[rash_powder]

I was cutting 3/4” poplar with 10.5 tpi olsonnpgt blades.  A test cut later with an Olson Mach speed 8 tpi ( I think, something less than ten anyway).  I have a Hegner 21” variable speed saw at full speed.  Not sure if it matters but dust is very minimal as I have a home made dust collector attached that sucks up most all the dust as I make it.  

[kmmcrafts]

Let me guess... Cutting hardwood... and using Flying Dutchman UR blades... probably a #5 or 7..  .. I don't have any experience with this now do I.. LOL For the life of me I cannot remember the types of wood that I used to use that did this the worst.. But I can tell you.. Since I switched to using Pegas modifies geometry blades.. I haven't had the noise..  Might be a good time to give those Pegas blades a try.. 

[kmmcrafts]

Okay, yeah.. forgot those PGT blades do this too.. think maybe even worst than the FD blades..

[Woodmaster1]

Sounds might be a hold over from Halloween (LOL).

[OCtoolguy]

It must have something to do with that burr on the right side of the blades. Pegas don't have that. Another win for Pegas.

 

[kmmcrafts]

Just now, octoolguy said:

It must have something to do with that burr on the right side of the blades. Pegas don't have that. Another win for Pegas.

 

I don't think so Ray.. The Olsen PGT re just like the Pegas MG blade and cut straight.. PGT is ( precision ground tooth)  Don't think they're stamped like most blades.. but I maybe wrong on that..For about a year those where my go to blade.. but then I started doing finer detail work and the smallest one is a #5.. while the teeth area isn't too large the ends seem to be larger.. also for a while the double skip tooth was all I could find.. and I like the regular reverse tooth ones.. Still have a few.. they work pretty aggressive on thicker wood..

[OCtoolguy]

3 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I don't think so Ray.. The Olsen PGT re just like the Pegas MG blade and cut straight.. PGT is ( precision ground tooth)  Don't think they're stamped like most blades.. but I maybe wrong on that..For about a year those where my go to blade.. but then I started doing finer detail work and the smallest one is a #5.. while the teeth area isn't too large the ends seem to be larger.. also for a while the double skip tooth was all I could find.. and I like the regular reverse tooth ones.. Still have a few.. they work pretty aggressive on thicker wood..

I recall that Iggy used as his ONLY blade the Olson Mach blades until he found the Pegas MGT. Now, unless he has changed again, that's all he uses.

 

[kmmcrafts]

4 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

I recall that Iggy used as his ONLY blade the Olson Mach blades until he found the Pegas MGT. Now, unless he has changed again, that's all he uses.

 

I think a lot of people are switching or have switch to the Pegas.. Those Mach blades is another that I also used on and off.. they're decent blades for certain work.. Those Pegas are hard to beat for the money.. The PGT blades are pricey.. 

[OCtoolguy]

Just now, kmmcrafts said:

I think a lot of people are switching or have switch to the Pegas.. Those Mach blades is another that I also used on and off.. they're decent blades for certain work.. Those Pegas are hard to beat for the money.. The PGT blades are pricey.. 

Like so many newbies, I bought every blade that anybody here on the forum talked up. I now have a bunch of blades that may never get used. I have a ton of Olson, PSWood, FD and some that I can't identify. But, just about all I use is the Pegas #3 or #5. I also have some #1's. I bought 2 gross of the blades that my maquetry instructor recommended. They are all 2/0. I bought them from Otto Frei but I don't think they sell them anymore. Mostly jewelry tools and parts.

 

[kmmcrafts]

4 minutes ago, octoolguy said:

Like so many newbies, I bought every blade that anybody here on the forum talked up. I now have a bunch of blades that may never get used. I have a ton of Olson, PSWood, FD and some that I can't identify. But, just about all I use is the Pegas #3 or #5. I also have some #1's. I bought 2 gross of the blades that my maquetry instructor recommended. They are all 2/0. I bought them from Otto Frei but I don't think they sell them anymore. Mostly jewelry tools and parts.

 

Yeah Me too.. I need to put them on eBay one of these days.. I always say they may come in handy though.. never know as they all do cut.. just not as good.. There have been a couple times where blades was back ordered and I needed blades.. those blades came in handy a few times when this has happened.. But now.. I order a few gross of each size and style I use.. when I get down to my last package ( gross ) on hand.. I order.. so I'll likely never get into that situation again.. LOL

[SCROLLSAW703]

 

Fergive me if'n I'm oversteppin', but, I use alot o' maple, & use flyin' dutchman blades.

Now, if'n yer gettin' a racket like yer describin', & the thickness of wood, yer blade speed could be to fast, with to thick o' blade.

If'n it's a burr piece, cuttin' is goin' to be slow on accounta the wood bein' tighter & harder wood, therefore requirin' a thinner blade, more teeth, & slower blade speed. 

My suggestion would be to go to a #2 or #3 polar blade, & slow yer blade speed down. 

[Ron Johnson]

Try 3 in 1 oil and oil the pivoting points of the top and bottom clamps. 

[rash_powder]

I will try running the saw slower.  There are several speeds my saw shakes very badly at; the stand I made is a bit inadequate.  Also, I will see about getting some Pegas blades ordered.  Is there a sampler pack of those like the Flying Dutchmen blades have?

[John B]

Another suggestion that won't cost much, Try placing clear packaging tape on your project. I don't know if it would reduce the noise, but it eliminates burning.

[Jim McDonald]

I hear different sounds as I move through and across grain, but never to the extent the original query was about. Without driving the saw myself, my guess would be some sort of oscillation being amplified by the blank and the table acting as resonators. 

Is there a difference with slower blade speed or different tension on the blade? Lots of things to chase here.

[kmmcrafts]

When this happens to me.. yes slowing the saw reduces the noise.. and it only ever did this with certain pieces of wood... (ie It could be the same type wood and even the same board , just a different section of that particular board ) I never had any burning issues on the edges.. 

Slowing the saw does help but if you like cutting at a faster pace like I do.. Then switching to a better blade is your only option.. This never happen to me a great deal.. out of 15 years of sawing I've probably only experienced this a dozen times.. The PGT blades was the worst ones and the FD UR blades would do it too but not as bad.. Never ever had this with the Pegas MG blade.. Not saying they won't do it.. because as I said.. it takes a special board to want to talk to you.. Maybe it has feelings and you're cutting it hurts 

[JimErn]

Check the wood, the down side of what you are cutting, it it is cupped or just not flat with the table you can get that type of noise.

[rash_powder]

So I think I got the shreaking figured out.  I slowed the saw way down to about 1/2 full speed, so 800ish spm.  No more screaming unless I side load the blade too much.  The first cut I did at this speed also seems to have come out better too, not quite as wavy as the first cut of the last project.  I'm making trivets that are 7" diameter so the perimeter is nearly 24".  Slower speed gave me more control over what I was doing.  Took quite a while though to get around the circle!

Thanks for the help guys!

[Woodrush]

On 11/2/2019 at 10:17 PM, rash_powder said:

I was cutting a trivet last night, about 7 1/4" diameter, from 3/4" poplar and came across a puzzling sound.  

As I cut around my circle and the decorations within, I found that as I went across the grain - dead perpendicular - no unusual sounds.  However, as soon as I started cutting even a little bit with the grain, the blade began to sing/shreak louder and louder, peaking when going dead with the grain.  Several different blades of differing tooth counts/configurations did this.  It doesn't appear that anything was binding or slipping while the shreak was happening, and holding a finger nail against the back of the blade did not seem to help.  

Has anyone else experienced this?  Its not affecting performance, but I would love for it to not shreak.  Its bad enough I should wear ear plugs.  

Thanks!

i cut alot of clear pine and this happens all the time