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Dewalt switch


edward

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Edward, I’m like you, I have never used a foot switch because of the way I sit. The DeWALT switch is not sealed. Dust gets into it and fouls up the contacts. Like was mentioned, most folks use a foot switch, but for you and me,  we have to deal with the switch. You will not find the switch at the Hardware store or any store. you will have to order it from DeWALT or wherever you order parts from. That being said, I have always repaired my switch’s. If you are a handy kind of guy, you can do it too. Let me know what you want to do, and I’ll walk you through it.

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I didn't like the foot switch a first either... until I found that the lower brace of the DW stand was the perfect spot to put the switch.. 

But to answer your question.. I think you'll need to order the switch..  unless you modify the area for a different switch.. When you get your new switch if that's how you like it... After installing it.. get a piece of rubber / latex style glove cut the fingers off ( don't use the table saw for this... scissors will work well 😂 ) and cut out a section of the palm area big enough to cover the switch.. tape it on with some masking tape.. This will keep out the dust and prolong the switch... When the glove wears out... make a new one..  

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Remember there are two types of foot switches.  Most scrollers use a  "deadman switch" .  That is the type where the saw runs as long as you hold it down.  The other is a on/off switch where you push it once for on and a second time for off.  You should be able to adapt that type to your stand to be triggered by your knee or even by your hand.

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With a little metal added on and riveted a regular heavy duty toggle can be put in, or an industrial rocker switch. They use low quality electronics and figure they will just sell the parts anyway. Not much of consumer electronics lasts long. A lot of brands are the same taiwan or china mgr painting and stamping a name on it. RJF

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1 hour ago, teachnlearn said:

With a little metal added on and riveted a regular heavy duty toggle can be put in, or an industrial rocker switch. They use low quality electronics and figure they will just sell the parts anyway. Not much of consumer electronics lasts long. A lot of brands are the same taiwan or china mgr painting and stamping a name on it. RJF

it is the constant making and breaking of a live circuit that wears the contacts on a switch. Any switch will fail over time and add elements to that switch location and it is a failure that will repeat. Protect the environment of the switch and use a heavier rated motor rated contact switch and will last longer. Those saw switches are low rated and being most people switch to foot controlled switching many people never have to replace them. You have this on lathes alot too because the constant on/off all the time. I just replaced a switch on my tablesaw and it was a 20 amp rated motor switch. Just normal wear and tear.  

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46 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

it is the constant making and breaking of a live circuit that wears the contacts on a switch. Any switch will fail over time and add elements to that switch location and it is a failure that will repeat. Protect the environment of the switch and use a heavier rated motor rated contact switch and will last longer. Those saw switches are low rated and being most people switch to foot controlled switching many people never have to replace them. You have this on lathes alot too because the constant on/off all the time. I just replaced a switch on my tablesaw and it was a 20 amp rated motor switch. Just normal wear and tear.  

That is not what the issue is with the DeWALT switch. The issue is the switch is not sealed. Saw dust gets into it and fouls up the contacts. I know this because I have taken apart many a DeWALT switch. Once you remove the gunk from the contacts inside the switch, it’s good to go again. As a scroll saw instructor at the local Woodcraft store, I have done this dozens of times.

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I had a power problem with my Delta (similar to Dewalt).

I did not consider "ANYTHING" except genuine parts from EREPLACEMENT. 

I ordered a switch and a breaker. I think the switch was about $8.00

Anyway, it was cheap enough and genuine part

PS: I scotch tape Saran Wrap around my switch. 

Edited by LarryEA
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1 hour ago, dgman said:

That is not what the issue is with the DeWALT switch. The issue is the switch is not sealed. Saw dust gets into it and fouls up the contacts. I know this because I have taken apart many a DeWALT switch. Once you remove the gunk from the contacts inside the switch, it’s good to go again. As a scroll saw instructor at the local Woodcraft store, I have done this dozens of times.

Please read my entire post Thank you.

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