wombatie Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 Me again. Terry thought that the knocking had stopped but no, it started again. He's taken the back, side plate off (photos below) and he noticed two things. One there appears to be a screw missing in to top and the hexican headed screw will not tighten up. Are these right or is there a problem. Marg OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 I haven't taken mine apart for awhile, but I think there should be a set screw in the hole. The Allen key headed bolt has a nut on the reverse. Just rock the arms back and forth (up and down) and see if there is any slack, if so it should be tightened a bit.I think there is a bearing in there so it should be tight. You may have to bend some spanners to get at it. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodduck Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 (edited) Just went & checked mine Marg The set screw hole looks the same as yours .I tried it with a small allen key & it seemed to connect to the screw which I think is deep in the hole. I turned the nut on the end of the shaft & the part you are worried about turned with it .So I think if yours turns also & feels tight you may have to look elsewhere. What John said about the other screw makes sense to me . Hope you find the trouble soon . I also looked it up in the parts list in my manual & it is called the Balance Block & it does have a set screw. Cheers Peter Edited December 12, 2019 by woodduck OCtoolguy and John B 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 In the first pic, I can not tell for sure if that is dust or perhaps brass shavings from a bearing or bushing wearing out just below the wire ends, I would check there OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted December 12, 2019 Report Share Posted December 12, 2019 It's hard to tell if there is a set screw down in there or not... mine "looks" like that as well but there is a set screw in it.. just a short one and it hides once its down in there where it tightens against the motor shaft.. That cap screw might not tighten down.. it's not supposed to be ' real " tight.. it might just spin and spin because on the other side of it is a lock nut... Very small one I might add.. and if you take it apart.. there is a washer on there too so be careful not to drop / loose that.. I'm assuming your talking about the screw that is zoomed in on the last picture. All pretty fresh in my mind as I just took mine completely apart and cleaned / greased the bearings etc about 1-2 months ago.. From what I can see... provided there is a set screw in that to lock down onto the motor shaft and it's locked tight down on it.. I think everything looks as it should.. But without digging in deeper to inspect bearings etc... it's kinda hard to say still,, OCtoolguy and John B 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombatie Posted December 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 Well Terry read everything that you all wrote and he's been looking at everything you said to check and no It's still knocking. So he will pull another bit apart tomorrow. Marg John B and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted December 13, 2019 Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 Bugger !!!!!!!!!!! wombatie and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted December 13, 2019 Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 Is the knocking coming from the back or is it the front? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted December 13, 2019 Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 That cap screw that is shown in the last picture has a needle bearing in there with a sleeve.. This is a big wear point on these saws.. Personally if you take that screw out. it's not much more work to just pull out the whole assembly upper and lower arm assembly out and clean up all the old grease re-grease everything and put it back together.. It's not extremely hard but does take a couple hours.. Being a older green saw.. I'm not sure how much use it's had. but I'd consider doing that.. knocking noise you may find a worn sleeve / bearing.. The bearings are pretty much the same ones the DW788 use but the sleeves are different... and I do not know a source for the sleeves.. Mine was beat up a bit and still has a slight knock to it because of this.. I'm just not sure where to look for the sleeve.. my local bearing supply can get the bearing in for me.. Ray sells the hole assembly but I really didn't want to spend $100+ when a 10-15 bearing and sleeve is all that was needed..LOL Best of luck with it and let us all know what you find out. OCtoolguy and John B 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted December 13, 2019 Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 8 hours ago, kmmcrafts said: That cap screw that is shown in the last picture has a needle bearing in there with a sleeve.. This is a big wear point on these saws.. Personally if you take that screw out. it's not much more work to just pull out the whole assembly upper and lower arm assembly out and clean up all the old grease re-grease everything and put it back together.. It's not extremely hard but does take a couple hours.. Being a older green saw.. I'm not sure how much use it's had. but I'd consider doing that.. knocking noise you may find a worn sleeve / bearing.. The bearings are pretty much the same ones the DW788 use but the sleeves are different... and I do not know a source for the sleeves.. Mine was beat up a bit and still has a slight knock to it because of this.. I'm just not sure where to look for the sleeve.. my local bearing supply can get the bearing in for me.. Ray sells the hole assembly but I really didn't want to spend $100+ when a 10-15 bearing and sleeve is all that was needed..LOL Best of luck with it and let us all know what you find out. Kevin, do you know what the difference is between the Dewalt sleeves and the EX sleeves? Are they longer? If the bearings are the same, I can't believe there would be any difference in the sleeves unless the through bolts are different also. It makes no sense. I want to take my saw apart later next year but I'm not sure how they come apart as opposed to the Dewalts. Can you offer any insight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted December 13, 2019 Report Share Posted December 13, 2019 1 hour ago, octoolguy said: Kevin, do you know what the difference is between the Dewalt sleeves and the EX sleeves? Are they longer? If the bearings are the same, I can't believe there would be any difference in the sleeves unless the through bolts are different also. It makes no sense. I want to take my saw apart later next year but I'm not sure how they come apart as opposed to the Dewalts. Can you offer any insight? Ray the bearing is the same.. but the I.D. of the sleeve is different size. I don't remember now.. if it was larger or smaller, LOL but the inside diameter was different.. also think the sleeve was also either longer or shorter.. I just know they wasn't the same.. as i have a complete set of bearings and sleeves that I intended to use on my old DW before I sold it.. As for taking the assembly out of the saw.. it's quite simple.. you need to remove the back cover that bends around the curvature of the back of the saw.. remove the metal plate on the side of the saw to access the motor area.. and remove the three screws holding the wires right below the motor shaft ( can be seen in the posted pics above..) I removed the cap screw on the arm end of the motor connecting rod and then unbolted the motor to remove it for better access.. Then at the front of the saw you need to remove all the linkages from the upper and lower arms.. then you should be able to pull the whole assembly right out the back of the saw... I believe there was two bolts back by that back side plate toward the front of the saw that has to come out too.. I say it's fresh in my head but now I don't know, LOL Once you look at it and start digging in it's straight forward.. Oh.. you have to remove the knob of the back adjustment rod too so you can get that back cover off.. I also think I unplugged some wires inside the case somewhere on the motor side.. I don't remember why I had to unplug them now but remember doing it.. Take a photo so you know what wire goes where is helpful.. Putting it back together was quite simple to do too... just pay attention to what arm is the top and bottom.. as they only go in one way.. well actually they will go in either way but when you go to put the motor back on.. it wont line up unless you have that assembly in right side up... don't ask how I know John B and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul S WI Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 I experienced a similar problem with the knocking noise and excess vibration on my EX-21 2006 Green Machine. Not so much at the lowest setting but much more so at medium to higher speeds. The first thing I did was install the Pegas blade holder believing that was the issue as the OEM holders had some play in it. The Pegas blade holders reduced the excess vibration significantly. And the knocking noise was reduced but not enough to my liking. So the next thing I did was tighten the two screws on the left side. They are listed as #EX-A56 according to the manuals diagram. One of these two screws is visible in the first photo at bottom right. As I recall the top screw tightened up the arm making lifting a little tight so I loosened that just a bit. After tightening both screws I found the sweet spot where the arm lifted easily but the knocking disappeared. (I had gotten this tip from Ray at Seyco). So far all is good. Question for you is...has the motor ever been removed/replaced? This would play a part in the knocking noise as well if not replaced as originally installed. John B and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Scroller Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 I had a knocking noise on my EX21 only to find out it was the hold down that I moved out the way had come loose and was hitting the wood. That's why I asked if it was the back or front knocking. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombatie Posted December 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 9 hours ago, Phantom Scroller said: I had a knocking noise on my EX21 only to find out it was the hold down that I moved out the way had come loose and was hitting the wood. That's why I asked if it was the back or front knocking. No Roly it's definitely not that. Marg Phantom Scroller and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 Marg, can you describe when/how the knocking occurs? I was cutting on my EX yesterday and I noticed that when I would make a sharp turn I would get a noise that I had not heard before. I did some checking and found that a loose board that I have my box fan had come in contact with the saw stand and it was making that noise at different times. I moved it away and it stopped. Silly things like that can drive you to distraction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rash_powder Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 (edited) If you cannot find plain bearings or sleeves, try your local welding/machine shop. They generally can get things based off of size rather than it came from this or that. Also, I would lube things with Honda M77 moly grease. Much better than a plain oil and will last longer too. Just a wee little bit is all you will need. Have the motor's brushes been checked? I believe that the Excaliburs use a DC motor. If so, they could be worn to the point that they are no longer making proper contact with the commutator and are bouncing. If its an AC motor, there is a chance there still are brushes in there and the same thing happening. Edited December 15, 2019 by rash_powder OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wombatie Posted December 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2019 The EX has been put on the back burner until after Christmas too many other thing to do. But we have all of your suggestions and I will let you know the outcome. Marg OCtoolguy and John B 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpg.95d348aa76923344a5cab534cc1b3bc1.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.