Blade Conundrum

[browders]

I have been a loyal Olson blade user since I started scrolling. Lately though I've noticed a lack of consistency in the quality of the blades. I'm specifically talking about smaller blades, 2/0 - 2, generally in scroll reverse type. I recently ordered Pegas and Flying Dutchman blades. The Pegas were Modified Geometry type and the FD were Ultra Reverse. I have not had good luck with either one. The Pegas blades are so delicate that they tend to break just trying to set the tension. If they survive that, they cut very well. The FD blades were worse. Not only did they break, but they were hard to keep on track. My project is cutting 1/4" maple. My question is, to those of you who swear by these blades. Which types do you use? Did I order the wrong types for the work I'm trying do? I'm trying to adapt, but I'm not having much luck.

Jim

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Why do you feel you need to use such thin blades??  I hardly ever use that small of a blade unless I have fine veining to do or doing puzzles. My go to blade is a #5 silver reverse FD blade and I cut 1/8" to 3/4" oak with it. The heavier blades will track better. You do not say what saw you are using? Using thin blades like that you need to lower the speed and tension and can not push as hard. When switching blade brands it always takes some getting use to. There is a learning curve. 

Here is an example of what a #5 blade can cut. 1/4" red oak on the lettering.

 

Edited December 13, 2019 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[dgman]

Hey Jim. I use mainly FD and Olson blades. As much as I like FD blades, I have never had any luck with their blades under a # 1. I have tried The scroll reverse # 2/0 and the UR #  2/0 and I can’t get them to track. So, when I need a 2/0 blade, I go back to Olsons. 

[scrollingforsanity]

I use Pegas #3 MG and FD #1 silver reverse. I cut a little of everything and have no blade breakage unless I put a kink in the Pegas then it will eventually break there. I even cut 3/4 poplar with the FD #1 silver reverse. Its not fast but it cuts fine and tracks very well. I hope you find a solution to your problem.

 

[kmmcrafts]

I use the Pegas Modified Geometry the most and usually a number 3 or 5 works well.. I also sometimes use FD ultra Reverse.. I've found that the Pegas blades tend to run on the smaller side of both FD and Olsen blades.. A number 5 Pegas is like a in between size 3 and 5 of the other brands.. They also run thinner kerf.. 

With that said.. I think you're nornal blade is a 2/0 you may want to go to a #1 with a Pegas MG blade.. that would be closer comparison to the Olsen 2/0.. 

[crupiea]

I dont use a 2/0 to cut 1/4" because they are just not up to the task.  I use them but its not ideal. 

That said, I have great success with good old jewelers blades.  get them on amazon for like $18 a gross.  They get get into any tight corner you can imagine, Also though they leave a mess on the back of the piece so something to keep in mind.  No reverse teeth at all. 

I have used FD and and loyal t those. Have some pegas ones but they just dont do it for me. 

[JimErn]

My goto blade is the pegas MG #3, Depending on the need I also use the MG #5 and the MG #1.  I started with Olsen, went to FDUR, and am happy with the MG blade and my ability to control them.

I have an excaliber and have no problem with breaking or getting hockey sticks.

[Sycamore67]

I recently was cutting some compound cut reindeer that were 2 -1/2" tall from 3/4" by 1" pieces.  After all the talk about the Pegas Modified Geometry, I tried a couple # 3.  They cut very well and easily for awhile and then suddenly dulled.  I was cutting Beech and Ash.  I also cut the some with a FD Polar #3.  While the blade did not cut as fast to start, it lasted a lot longer.

[NC Scroller]

Jim it would help to see a picture of what you are cutting and know what saw you are using.  I cut everything from 1/8" to 1 .5" .  Though I never cut a single piece of anything 1/8" . For cutting less then 1" a FDUR #5 is my go to Flying Dutchman but  #3 is my go to Pegas.  1" and greater my go to is a # 5 Polar blade.  I don't have have any breakage or tracking issue with these.  I do use a 2/0 blade at times and yes they cut a bit different so I only go that small when I have to.

[kmmcrafts]

1 hour ago, Sycamore67 said:

I recently was cutting some compound cut reindeer that were 2 -1/2" tall from 3/4" by 1" pieces.  After all the talk about the Pegas Modified Geometry, I tried a couple # 3.  They cut very well and easily for awhile and then suddenly dulled.  I was cutting Beech and Ash.  I also cut the some with a FD Polar #3.  While the blade did not cut as fast to start, it lasted a lot longer.

Maybe you've discovered this yourselves but.. I find that the long arm saws tend to go through blades faster than a short arm saw.. ( ie my Hawk will burn through two - three blades per ornament stack per one - two blade on my Excalibur or DeWalt depending on the pattern but I typically count on using more blades on the Hawk ).. I think this has to do with the " Rocking Motion " that the EX types saws blade does..  While I can adjust this motion to be almost minimal on a EX.. It's still there.. I think it has to do with cooler running blades.. that rocking motion sort of gives the blade a break to cool for a millisecond.. or less   My new Hawk isn't quite as bad.. I believe it to be that I can fine tune the blade angle to give it a similar experience...      

[NC Scroller]

1 hour ago, Sycamore67 said:

I recently was cutting some compound cut reindeer that were 2 -1/2" tall from 3/4" by 1" pieces.  After all the talk about the Pegas Modified Geometry, I tried a couple # 3.  They cut very well and easily for awhile and then suddenly dulled.  I was cutting Beech and Ash.  I also cut the some with a FD Polar #3.  While the blade did not cut as fast to start, it lasted a lot longer.

Reverse teeth blades are not ideal for compound cutting as the bottom teeth push sawdust back into the cut that is why the Polar worked better.

[ike]

I havetried both Pegas and FD baldes and I still like Olsons I use a #5 modified  olson 90% of the time they cut on the line and I don'dt rememmber the last time I broke one. I use about a Gross of #5 blades a year I buy them from the Wooden Teddybear and it useally t;akes about 3 days  I ordered a gross Monday and they should be here today unless the postoffice holdes them up.

IKE

[stoney]

I never have understood why some scrollers use the very small blades on projects that can be easily accomplished with a larger blade.   Is it for bragging rights or what?   I can't remember the last time I used a 2/0 or smaller blade.   For one thing it's just common sense less metal means less material to dissipate heat which is one big enemy of scroll saw blades.   Less metal also means smaller blades are less forgiving for flexing, bending, and tension.  Now granted small blades do have their uses but I think they should only be used when the project requires them.  JMHO     

Edited December 13, 2019 by stoney

[browders]

Thanks everyone for sharing your thoughts. You've given me a lot to consider as I continue my quest to seek the perfect blade for my circumstances. 

Jim

[Denny Knappen]

Looks like you got a lot of good advise.  I agree with most, I can't remember using a #2/0 blade.  My got to blades for 1/4" is MGT #1 or #3 if the wood is hard.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I am with Al all the way. Really no need to use that thin of a blade. I can spin a #5 on a dime. To me that is the perfect range for newbie scrollers to start and go from there. People think because the projects is thin or fragile looking that you need a fine blade and that is just not true. If you can drill the hole for a #5 blade in the pattern then you can cut with it. That is where the smaller blades maybe needed. The size of the drill hole as a determining factor. Tons of different blades out there. Happy blade hunting.

[Scrappile]

A never ending conversation.  I say blades are reasonably cheap.  Buy a variety of sizes and brands.  Try them and decide for your self which work best for you for what you are cutting at the time.  Personally I have never like a blade bigger than a #5, and only go that big when doing 3D cutting or other thick wood.  It is all personal preference, and what works best for you... It has nothing to do with "bragging rights".  Sometime what blade I use has to do with what mode I am in....

[OCtoolguy]

9 hours ago, Sycamore67 said:

I recently was cutting some compound cut reindeer that were 2 -1/2" tall from 3/4" by 1" pieces.  After all the talk about the Pegas Modified Geometry, I tried a couple # 3.  They cut very well and easily for awhile and then suddenly dulled.  I was cutting Beech and Ash.  I also cut the some with a FD Polar #3.  While the blade did not cut as fast to start, it lasted a lot longer.

I'm really surprised to hear that. I have been cutting a lot of mahogany measuring 3/4" x 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". Compound cuts. Two the full length and then some fretwork and two along the outside edges. Here is a pic of the pattern I'm using. So far, I have gotten as many as 3 completely cut before I had to change the blade. I am using the Pegas #5MGT on my Excalibur 21 and I have found that running it at full speed works the best. It seems to clear the dust from the kerfs better at that speed. Maybe you should try speeding up your saw. When you get your new saw that is.

 

Edited December 13, 2019 by octoolguy

[browders]

I just happened to have some #5 Pegas MGT in my latest order. Gonna try them on my current project and see how they do. Fingers crossed.

 

Jim