scrollingforsanity Posted December 23, 2019 Report Share Posted December 23, 2019 I am curious on how you how you folks finish your Baltic birch Ornaments. I make about 1500 or so a year of 1/8 inch Baltic birch Ornaments. I stain them with a natural stain and then use a clear spray paint to finish then. Is there something easier and cheaper to get the same results. The spray paint is quite expensive for that many ornaments. I didn't use the Deft because it is twice the cost. If you have any ideas let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted December 23, 2019 Report Share Posted December 23, 2019 If you want to stay more in the range of natural earth tone colors, you could go with shellac. Shellac (the flake variety) comes in a multitude of tones that start with an almost clear, very faint amber tint all the way up to a very deep reddish brown. The shellac could then be both colorant and finish. You could also mix alcohol based dyes with the shellac to expand the pallet of colors available, even more. Sycamore67 and John B 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 May I ask what do you do with 1,500 ornaments each year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 I too am inquisitive about the amount of ornaments and do you sell them and to whom?? Are these custom order or just Christmas ornaments?? How long have you been doing this?? This is one of those curious minds want to know things. Maybe post a photo or 2 of some of these ornaments would definitely be welcomed. To answer your question I dip in Danish oil. If I see it needs top coat I will spray lacquer (Deft is my brand or will go with a water base if I have many to do) Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 Doing that many items a year, it may be worth investing in a compressor and spray gun. This way you can purchase lacquer and thinners by the litre and it will work out a fraction of the cost of pressure pack cans. Actually you could use what ever type of finish you wish, water based, poly, shellac etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 2 minutes ago, John B said: Doing that many items a year, it may be worth investing in a compressor and spray gun. This way you can purchase lacquer and thinners by the litre and it will work out a fraction of the cost of pressure pack cans. Actually you could use what ever type of finish you wish, water based, poly, shellac etc. That is exactly what I do when I need many of one project. I break out the HVLP gun and compressor and have at it. Saves on finish for sure. John B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollingforsanity Posted December 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 Thanks for all the suggestions. It's just a hobby. I can't shoot archery anymore and fishing here is terrible so this is what I do. Been doing it 20+ years. I sell enough to replenish my supplies and give many away and have several leftovers each year. As long as I can make enough money to buy all the wood, blades and everything else I need I'm happy. I don't count the cost of my saw itself as I would spend more than that on archery and fishing goodies. kmmcrafts, NC Scroller, JTTHECLOCKMAN and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 2 minutes ago, scrollingforsanity said: Thanks for all the suggestions. It's just a hobby. I can't shoot archery anymore and fishing here is terrible so this is what I do. Been doing it 20+ years. I sell enough to replenish my supplies and give many away and have several leftovers each year. As long as I can make enough money to buy all the wood, blades and everything else I need I'm happy. I don't count the cost of my saw itself as I would spend more than that on archery and fishing goodies. Could you answer are inquisitive questions for us as I know I am not alone. A photo or 2 would be nice too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 I dip my ornaments in Danish oil...and done with them.... My understanding of Danish oil is that it has a sealer ( polyurethane or varnish ) in it.. I agree with the others.. the cheapest way is to buy quarts, gallons or 5 gallons of the desired top coat and spray with a spray gun.. Here in my area the quarts cost around the same price as a spray can.. however the spray can is only 12 ounces.. where as the quarts 32 ounces.. The larger quantity you buy is cheaper cost.. Ie.. a quart might cost $10 but a gallon is around $22.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollingforsanity Posted December 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 Thanks Kevin, is the Danish oil expensive and do you buy it by the gallon? I will try to add a picture of some ornaments as soon as I figure out how to get from my phone to here. kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 I also dip ornaments in Danish Oil. I normally allow them to dry over night before adding ribbon or string. Danish Oil comes in tinted versions I just use the clear or natural. If I am in a big hurray I dip them in shellac. Shellac also comes in clear or tinted. Ornaments dipped in shellac are ready to string in less then 30 minutes. scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 8 minutes ago, scrollingforsanity said: Thanks Kevin, is the Danish oil expensive and do you buy it by the gallon? I will try to add a picture of some ornaments as soon as I figure out how to get from my phone to here. I get me Danish Oil at Klingspor and it cost about $35 a gallon. I pour the oil in a roasting pan. After dipping I pour the oil back in the container until next time. Trust me a gallon goes a long way. scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 13 minutes ago, scrollingforsanity said: Thanks Kevin, is the Danish oil expensive and do you buy it by the gallon? I will try to add a picture of some ornaments as soon as I figure out how to get from my phone to here. I buy it by the gallon.. here a gallon cost me $23.. and as Scott said.. just pour some into a container and dip the projects then pour the leftovers back into the original container.. I do let them soak for about 10 minutes.. then I take them out and wipe off excess and let air dry.. A gallon will probably do the 1500 ornaments you make... scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollingforsanity Posted December 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 Thank you guys for the information. I believe I will give the Danish oil a try. Sounds easy. I will let you know how it turns out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollingforsanity Posted December 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Adding a couple pictures you requested. These are unfinished, just got through cutting them. The truck is Steve Goods pattern scaled down, the pig and Walleye are Sheila Landry and the Merry Christmas is Boob's Scroller pattern. I am not a very good photographer. These are the ornaments I was going to try the Danish oil on. Scrappile, JTTHECLOCKMAN, John B and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Nice work, Grizz. scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted December 25, 2019 Report Share Posted December 25, 2019 Nice work. You are a very good scroller. Thanks for showing. Post photos any time. be proud of what at you are doing. dgman and scrollingforsanity 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted December 26, 2019 Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 I agree with a John, great cutting and please don’t be shy about posting your work! scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollingforsanity Posted December 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 Thank You Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollingforsanity Posted December 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2019 Thank You guy's for the kind words. I will post more pictures in the future since I figured out how. A good saw and good blades do help with the end result. These were cut on my Seyco with Pegas blade holders installed using Pegas #3 MG blades.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollingforsanity Posted December 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2019 Thanks Kevin and Scott for the tips on Danish Oil. just purchased two gallons of Watco Danish oil in natural from Home Depot for $49.00 free shipping. I did have to have it shipped to Home Depot in Wa. about 25 miles from my home and had to pay $4.00 and some change for tax there as they don't ship to Oregon. I am going to give it a try. Tired of using all the spray cans and not sure I want to try the spray gun route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted December 28, 2019 Report Share Posted December 28, 2019 53 minutes ago, scrollingforsanity said: Thanks Kevin and Scott for the tips on Danish Oil. just purchased two gallons of Watco Danish oil in natural from Home Depot for $49.00 free shipping. I did have to have it shipped to Home Depot in Wa. about 25 miles from my home and had to pay $4.00 and some change for tax there as they don't ship to Oregon. I am going to give it a try. Tired of using all the spray cans and not sure I want to try the spray gun route. Keep in mind Danish oil is not a topcoat. This may be fine for you. For me, I always use a topcoat. scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted December 28, 2019 Report Share Posted December 28, 2019 Depends on what you consider a top coat. Danish oil has poly in it unlike BLO. I use it all the time as a top coat and a sealer. All my oak clocks are dipped in Danish oil and no top coat added. Now if you are looking for a shiny finish then you need to top with lacquer or poly. If you do top coat make sure that Danish oil is cured not just dry or failure of top coat will happen. Again just my thoughts. I do use Danish oil alot. Sycamore67 and scrollingforsanity 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted December 28, 2019 Report Share Posted December 28, 2019 Danish oil can be referred to as an "in the wood" finish. It doesn't build a film on top of the surface of the wood in the way that polyurethane or lacquer or even shellac does. It is intended to give more of a hand rubbed, low luster finish to the wood. It does contain some polyurethane, so it does have a slight film component to it, making it different than a true oil finish, like linseed or tung oil. For anyone interested and perhaps finding it difficult to get Danish oil where they live, you can readily make your own by simply mixing equal portions of BLO, polyurethane (or varnish) and mineral spirits. You can adjust the proportions to suit your needs and tastes. More poly/varnish gives more luster and slightly more of a protective coating. More oil gives more of the low sheen, hand rubbed look. More mineral spirits makes the mix thinner, easier to apply. scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted December 28, 2019 Report Share Posted December 28, 2019 Just to add a point to what Bill said, you want BLO and not straight linseed oil. Or if you want a more water proof mix use tung oil. Natural Danish oil has dryers added to help it dry faster. But it is a forgiving finish and looks great. For items that are not handled alot it has enough top coat protective features to handle that. scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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