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Softwoods or Hardwoods for varied projects?


new2woodwrk

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3 hours ago, JimErn said:

Ray, keep in mind that if you build a rolling cart, flip top or not, the larger the wheels the easier it is to roll.  All too often I see projects like this that have small wheels, just the minimum weight handling, and the user wonders why it rolls with difficulty

Thanks Jim. I was going to use some H/F rubber wheels on one side with smaller locking casters on the other. When I built my EX cart, I did that with just two legs. The 6" wheels from H/F use a 1/2" axle so I bought a couple of long bolts/lock nuts and washers. I incorporated a collapsible PVC handle so that I can lift one end and roll it outdoors. I'm going to build a different ramp so that I can move stuff out and down a bit easier. There is a 6" difference between my shop floor and the driveway.

 

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On 1/3/2020 at 2:37 PM, octoolguy said:

 If I build it the way I have in my mind, I'll be able to roll it down and out of my shop fairly easily. Of course, that's in my mind. In reality it probably won't work that way. Oh well..............

 

if i could build what i have in my mind, id have this!😀

ive drooled over this for years

https://www.woodmagazine.com/ideas/wood-shop-showcase/ultimate-wood-shop-design

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17 minutes ago, tomsteve said:

if i could build what i have in my mind, id have this!😀

ive drooled over this for years

https://www.woodmagazine.com/ideas/wood-shop-showcase/ultimate-wood-shop-design

that is an amazing shop, I expect it took him to his present age to get it all made, now just to use it (joking)

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Around here the only hardwood I can get is red oak, birch and maple.  All of this is VERY expensive.  However, I have a friend of mine who has his own company that makes hardwood flooring. I get my rough lumber dirt cheap.  For $200 I can come home with a truckload of rough oak and birch.  I do my own milling on my 6" jointer and thickness planer.  I know it sounds like a lot of work, and it is.  But it sure as heck beats paying $50 or more for a single 1" x 6" x 8' board at the box stores.

During my very short scroll sawing "career"  (🤣) I have found that the best wood for me to cut on the scroll saw is birch, 1/2" thick.  Trouble is that there's no grain that will stand out once a finish is applied to the piece.  I love oak for furniture building but found that because of it being so hard it is impossible for me to do anything with it on the scroll saw.  For stuff like "word art" I mostly have been using 1/2" plywood.

Lately I have been cutting with some ash that I found in my woodpile.  This wood is beautiful to cut and has a very nice grain that comes out when a finish is applied.  I also have some maple somewhere and may give that a try.

My shop is very small - 25' x 12' x 8'.  It is very well stocked with tools.  I put in a lot of planning when I was setting everything up.  Virtually every large tool is on wheels.  If I want to use one I roll another one out of the way and then return it from where it came, against a wall when finished.  I'm only using 3 bench tools at the moment... a small drill press, a small 1" belt sander and a vice.  This doesn't mean that I don't have other bench tools because I have plenty more of them.  But with the lack bench real estate I keep most of it in another room on shelves and bring them out when needed.

Yes... the shop is very compact but I feel grateful that I do at least have a shop.😀  I could post a few pictures if I knew where to put them.

/Oscar

 

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6 minutes ago, Oscar Myer said:

Around here the only hardwood I can get is red oak, birch and maple.  All of this is VERY expensive.  However, I have a friend of mine who has his own company that makes hardwood flooring. I get my rough lumber dirt cheap.  For $200 I can come home with a truckload of rough oak and birch.  I do my own milling on my 6" jointer and thickness planer.  I know it sounds like a lot of work, and it is.  But it sure as heck beats paying $50 or more for a single 1" x 6" x 8' board at the box stores.

During my very short scroll sawing "career"  (🤣) I have found that the best wood for me to cut on the scroll saw is birch, 1/2" thick.  Trouble is that there's no grain that will stand out once a finish is applied to the piece.  I love oak for furniture building but found that because of it being so hard it is impossible for me to do anything with it on the scroll saw.  For stuff like "word art" I mostly have been using 1/2" plywood.

Lately I have been cutting with some ash that I found in my woodpile.  This wood is beautiful to cut and has a very nice grain that comes out when a finish is applied.  I also have some maple somewhere and may give that a try.

My shop is very small - 25' x 12' x 8'.  It is very well stocked with tools.  I put in a lot of planning when I was setting everything up.  Virtually every large tool is on wheels.  If I want to use one I roll another one out of the way and then return it from where it came, against a wall when finished.  I'm only using 3 bench tools at the moment... a small drill press, a small 1" belt sander and a vice.  This doesn't mean that I don't have other bench tools because I have plenty more of them.  But with the lack bench real estate I keep most of it in another room on shelves and bring them out when needed.

Yes... the shop is very compact but I feel grateful that I do at least have a shop.😀  I could post a few pictures if I knew where to put them.

/Oscar

 

OM try experimenting  with your blades.  I cut wood art out of 3/4" red oak all the time without any troubles.  I use mostly Pegas Modified Geometry in either #5 or #7.  I find ash harder to cut then same thickness red oak. Maple cuts great.

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4 hours ago, Oscar Myer said:

Around here the only hardwood I can get is red oak, birch and maple.  All of this is VERY expensive.  However, I have a friend of mine who has his own company that makes hardwood flooring. I get my rough lumber dirt cheap.  For $200 I can come home with a truckload of rough oak and birch.  I do my own milling on my 6" jointer and thickness planer.  I know it sounds like a lot of work, and it is.  But it sure as heck beats paying $50 or more for a single 1" x 6" x 8' board at the box stores.

During my very short scroll sawing "career"  (🤣) I have found that the best wood for me to cut on the scroll saw is birch, 1/2" thick.  Trouble is that there's no grain that will stand out once a finish is applied to the piece.  I love oak for furniture building but found that because of it being so hard it is impossible for me to do anything with it on the scroll saw.  For stuff like "word art" I mostly have been using 1/2" plywood.

Lately I have been cutting with some ash that I found in my woodpile.  This wood is beautiful to cut and has a very nice grain that comes out when a finish is applied.  I also have some maple somewhere and may give that a try.

My shop is very small - 25' x 12' x 8'.  It is very well stocked with tools.  I put in a lot of planning when I was setting everything up.  Virtually every large tool is on wheels.  If I want to use one I roll another one out of the way and then return it from where it came, against a wall when finished.  I'm only using 3 bench tools at the moment... a small drill press, a small 1" belt sander and a vice.  This doesn't mean that I don't have other bench tools because I have plenty more of them.  But with the lack bench real estate I keep most of it in another room on shelves and bring them out when needed.

Yes... the shop is very compact but I feel grateful that I do at least have a shop.😀  I could post a few pictures if I knew where to put them.

/Oscar

 

Yes, pictures! Or as they say here - No pictures, it didn't happen LOL

I also have a small shop in my garage and all my tools are on wheels as well - hoping to convert a few of them to flip tops soon

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