Cutting Thin Stock

[Oscar Myer]

Forgive me for sounding like the newb that I am but I know that some kind souls out there will help me out on this.

My question is:  I'm having a heck of a time cutting thin wood - 1/8 - 1/4" plywood.  I've tried with some limited success to slow down the saw, slow the way I'm feeding the wood into the blade (letting the blade do the work), but at some point the wood takes on a life of it's own and takes off out of control.  Is there something I'm missing?  I have been practicing on scraps and just when I think I have it mastered the saw quickly tells me that I don't have it mastered.  Are there any tricks or tips to be had?

For now I've been tacking the thin stuff to 1/'2" scraps and this make all the difference in the world but I'm sure there is a better way.

Thanks in advance

/Oscar

[Foxfold]

Must admit the best advice I got when I first started was 'don't be bullied by the wood'  just get a firm push 'down' and pin it to the saw table and just put in front of the blade the bit you want to cut.  Now I know that sounds vague and perhaps fanciful but it worked for me. .. I only have my saw on ¾ speed and actually talk to it when cutting a 'difficult' piece saying ''You will only cut what I put in front of you'' . I only cut a ¼'' of wood at a time,  I find if I look at the whole pattern the saw takes over and whizzes away from me.

[Sycamore67]

What blade are you using?

I slow the saw way down when cutting 1/8" wood.

[ike]

What blade are you using? I use olsons #5 matfh blade.. but when I am cutting 1/4 & 1/8 ply I stack 3 or 4 ppieces at a time.

IKE

[dgman]

Try stack cutting! I never cut 1/8” wood by its self. I always stack another layer of wood or plywood. It gives you more control. Use scraps to build up the thickness. Either use masking tape or what I do is use a hot glue gun to tack the edges together. This is a good way to get multiple copies too!

[NC Scroller]

Cutting a single piece of 1/8" to 1/4" stock especially plywood the biggest blade I would use is a #1.  More then likely a would use a 2/0.  

[redwine]

Oscar, You made a statement that you attached  the thin piece to a 1/2 inch scrap and you didn't have any trouble cutting it and what Ike posted is the best way to cut thin stock. Also you need to use a #1 or at the least a #3 blade and if you are a newbe to this wonderful hobby do slow your saw speed down to half the speed your saw will produce. With time and patience you will be cutting the thin stock with the best of us! As stated stack 2 or 3 pieces of 1/8 inch ply, put on a pattern, drill some holes, feed the blade through and watch the magic occur!

Erv  

[Scrappile]

When cutting 1/4" I use a Flying Dutchman #1 Penguin Silver Reverse (PSR) blade.  It is non-aggressive and cuts clean.  1/4" is as thin as I like to go so if I need 1/8" I stack.

Edited January 15, 2020 by Scrappile

[Bill WIlson]

The simple explanation as to why it's harder, is that because the thin wood offers far less resistance to the cutting action of the blade.  By stack cutting several layers, or attaching to a thicker piece of wood, as you have done, will increase the resistance and thus your ability to control the blade.

The other alternatives have been mentioned.  Slow your blade speed and feed rate.  Also use a smaller, less aggressive blade.  Scrolling is a constant exercise in matching your cutting speed and blade selection to the pattern and material being cut.

[MrsN]

The answer to how do you accurately cut thin pieces for me is either A. I don't, I stack cut, or B. very slowly. 

I personally stack cut nearly every thing that I cut from thin wood. I can often find a use for a second piece. (Although I do have a box of portraits no one will ever want)

 

[Oscar Myer]

7 hours ago, Sycamore67 said:

What blade are you using?

I slow the saw way down when cutting 1/8" wood.

Sorry... I should have mentioned that my go to blade is an FD UR #5

[new2woodwrk]

All good advice - I had the same issue when I started.

I no longer cut single sheets and only stack cut. Also use a #3 reverse skip when I do baltic - but hey I don't know what I'm doing either so LOL....

Good luck

[Oscar Myer]

Thanks to all for the help!!!  Much appreciated.

Going by what you kind people have told me it would seem like I answered my own question.  Stack cutting is the way to go (like I have been doing.)  However, I was almost embarrassed to admit that I was doing this...  I thought that it was only a newb's way to get around the problem.  Reading your answers have blown my self-confidence level sly high!!!

I've also noticed that I should be using a lesser blade when cutting thin stuff.  Thanks for that as well.  I will be printing out a few more "practice sheets".

/Oscar

[tomsteve]

one thing ive done when cutting thin stock is dull the blade out a bit. do some cutting in thicker wood for a bit then go at the thinner piece.

but stack cutting is the best way to go.

a #5 blade is quite aggressive for thin stock.

Edited January 15, 2020 by tomsteve

[nrscroller]

Hi

I scroll with thin stock all the time, 1/8 inch baltic birch ply. I currently use the Pegas 2/0 28 tpi and it is great. It is a skip tooth blade so it doesn't clog up. Try it and you will be surprised how nice it cuts.

Bill

[kmmcrafts]

A FD-UR blade of any size is going to make the job harder when cutting thin stock.. They are great blades for thicker stock but all those teeth that are facing up on the up stroke will make the whole piece try to jump around.. Not saying it cannot be done.. but cutting fragile fretwork on thin stock.. those blades might make a mess of the piece before you even get close to being done..  Which is a good thing.. as I hate breaking a piece on the last cut anyway.. If it's going to break... do it on the very first cut..

[fredfret]

A simple rule of thumb is at least 3 teeth in contact with the wood at any time. Read as thin wood use small blades. 

[Whisper]

I'm glad this was asked and answered. I've been cutting out backing for a couple of projects from luan. Great advice!

[Oscar Myer]

And so...  I have just spent the last hour honing my cutting 1/4" plywood skills.  To do this I took the advice that a lot of you nice people offered me... smaller blade and lower speed.

I will no doubt be doing a lot of stack cutting but for today I just wanted to see what would happen without stacking... call it an experiment.  I installed a 2/0 blade and slowed the saw WAY down.  To my amazement I was doing almost perfect cuts within 15 minutes of practice time.  I was in complete control.  I just couldn't believe it.  I might go out on a limb here and say that it almost felt easier than cutting 1/2" with a FD UR #5.

Thanks all for all your help!!!

/Oscar

[Lucky2]

If not stack cutting thin stock, rather than wasting stock for a backer. I usually turn the speed way up, and then cut with a lower numbered blade like a #2/0 or #1. If it is happens often enough on you, you may have to install the material hold down foot back onto your saw.

 

Len

[teachnlearn]

You can find a lot of advise with a table saw crosses to a scroll saw on a smaller scale. Finish carpenters and cabinet makers will cut thin strips on table saws using high count thin blades, hold downs, clamps, jigs. The table saw is much more powerful, rotates one direction and has to be watched for kickback. Gluing temp backing for table saws is one tip of many. Of course many of the jigs won't have to be made, though I've been curious to scale these down as an experiment. RJF

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Just use a smaller size blade. No need to change speeds. The only time I change speeds is when I scroll metals. Even plastics I leave alone. It is all in the proper blade used. I have scrolled 1/32" wood. Puzzle blades are good for that.