savethebeer Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 I've just started a new Schwibbogen (candle arch). And no I'm not 4 weeks late, I'm 11 months early, so there. I asked a friend to enlarge it and she changed it from 9 inches the 16 inches wide pattern, which is a lot more wood to deal with. Also the larger size meant a heavier paper which I never thought of. So I'm on the first layer, of 5 layers, in 4mm BB using a Pegas #7MG. Problem # 1 is its too wide to rotate the wood when I'm sitting. For some reason I'm unable to suck in that gut enough, so the chair had to go. I was then happily working away for about 2 hours when i realised my legs were beginning to hurt from standing still so the chair had to be brought back. Then I remembered I had 1 pack of spirals that I got 5 years ago to try but never did, so I changed the blade to a spiral. I've now done dozens of those fiddly little branch/leaf holes in all the trees and I'm loving it. I've even done a few straight cuts for windows and doors and I'm happy with the results. The spirals I got when I bought a previous saw, are SSB-PG0746. I've no idea what that would correspond to with more popular makes, but the kerf is fairly thin. My questions for spiral users, Do they work as well for stack cutting?. Also it seems to me that when I'm reattaching the top clamp for each new cut, the shank seems to be at 90 degrees to the normal position and I have to twist the shank to fit in the clamp. Can these blades 'unwind' in use? The other problem is the heavier paper means my normal spray of glue onto the pattern is not enough to hold the paper down. There is a lot of lifting of the pattern so I will have to use more spray on my next piece. kmmcrafts and SCROLLSAW703 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savethebeer Posted January 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 I've just googled the blades and they have teeth as opposed to steel bristles that I've seen on other blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 I don't think I've ever used a spiral blade without stack cutting.. so yes.. spirals work well for stack cutting as any other blade would.. the trick to that will be to use the proper size blade to the type of material cutting.. as with any flat blade.. I will say though.. I run a smaller blade on spirals than I do in a flat blade... I've never used a larger blade than a #1 with spirals... actually I have used a #3 but I found the larger the blade the more rounded the detailed fine point cutouts get... and the rougher the edges of the cuts get.. so I almost always use a number 2/0 or a 1.. usually I stack cut 3-5 pieces of 1/8" BB ply just for a reference for you.. Where I normally would use a #3 or 5 flat blade.. my flat blades are normally either FD- ultra reverse or Pegas Modified Geometry.. or your reference.. Glad to see you're getting a good jump start on the Christmas stuff... since you enlarged it and running into the small issues along the way... hoping you're able to finish it before you're too late for this years Christmas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 Bob I agree with Kevin on the size of the spirals. 2//0 or #1. You will also help yourself a lot by reducing your flat blade size. #7 is way to big for cutting Baltic Birch. For a single piece use a #2/0 or #1 flat blade. Even if I stacked 5 or 6 I would not use a blade bigger then #5. I can relate some to my belly getting in the way with larger pieces. To minimize the stand up time work from the middle of the project out. I do not understand the issue with heavier paper and adhesion. I use copier paper for all my projects and I use 3M 77 spray to hold it down. Can you explain what you are doing so we can try to help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savethebeer Posted January 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 Thanks Guys. I'm now on my second layer, the one with Santa and the Reindeer. I was giggling a lot to myself earlier and thinking that if I called to any of your doors right then, it would not be to ask to speak to you all about 'Our Lord and Saviour', it would be to wax lyrical about spirals. Then I reached those parts that proved that I'm a long way from being able to use spirals exclusively. The bottom edge of each layer, you all know that edge that has to sit on the base, the edge that needs to be a straight cut to sit properly. Well I can't do a straight 16 inch cut with a spiral. So I'm back on the flat blade for this second layer, but I was delighted how fast the spiral cut through the first piece so I will use the spiral on the two outer layers of trees and foreground shrubbery. Kevin. life is too short to get stressed out, so if its not ready for this Christmas, then it'll be done for the following one, or the next one. Scott, all I meant was my normal application of spray-on glue was not enough the hold the heavier paper. With this second cutting I applied more glue and it working fine. kmmcrafts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 5 hours ago, savethebeer said: My questions for spiral users, Do they work as well for stack cutting?. Also it seems to me that when I'm reattaching the top clamp for each new cut, the shank seems to be at 90 degrees to the normal position and I have to twist the shank to fit in the clamp. Can these blades 'unwind' in use? Yes, they can be used for stack cutting, but like Kevin and Scott said, the smaller blade sizes work best, so you may be more limited in the thickness of your stack. Many spirals are twisted all the way to the ends, so I typically take a minute to untwist or flatten out the ends and get them in the same plane, so they go in to the clamps easier. You can get flat end spirals, as well, but they don't make them in the sizes I typically use (#2/0 and #3/0). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 It looks like you got some good advise. Yes, stack cut and use a smaller blade. On my project last Monday, I used Pegas#3 Spiral only because I had excess stock on #3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RangerJay Posted January 17, 2020 Report Share Posted January 17, 2020 (edited) Just to address your concerns about cutting a straight line with a spiral: If you cut a tiny bit proud of the line - then crank the speed of the saw to as fast as it will go - you will then be able to go back over your work and - (with quick, smooth and fine movements) - "shave" it to the line quite easily - this is not a difficult skill to master and you will be as straight as is possible with any scrollsaw blade - flat or spiral. Having said that: If your 16 inch cut is the base of the piece then take it to the jointer or use a hand plane to make it true for attaching to the base. I agree with all the other advice you've received on this thread. Hope this helps. Thanks, Jay Edited January 17, 2020 by RangerJay JimErn and SCROLLSAW703 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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