spiral blades?

[blame]

Do you use them? If you do, How often do they break on you? the wife wanted me to cut out a butterfly for her out 1/8" finnish birch ply ts about 30 or 35 cuts and i'm about half way thru the cutting and used 4 blades so far! i've been getting maybe 5 cuts per blade somethings up i think there defective blades (olsen) forget the size thou

[Travis]

I use #3 FD spirals with the flat ends. I get through an entire cutting on one blade. I noticed that the non-flat ended blades to break at the bladeclamp area. Do you straighten out the ends before clamping? You can do this with a few taps with a hammer on an anvil (or steel surface), or you can use two pairs of plyers and twist the ends straight. I know that has helped me a lot. But now I buy the flat-ended spirals.

[blame]

i used to do that with my wilton saw thats where they would break on it but these are breaking about the middle i've had the blades for about 2 years, i got them up in des moines from woodcraft store. bought a whole gross for 4 bucks off there discount rack they had gobs of them when i bought them (thought i was getting a deal) and there not being bent over to much i thought i was maybe kinking them(this would happen on my wilton saw as well) while trying to get them in the entry holes with the [wiki]dewalt[/wiki] saw the upper arm lifts so you have more room.

 

cheap blades lol i'm such a tight wad

[paul44224]

I keep forgetting to order spirals so I can try them out. Heard you either love 'em or hate 'em.

Paul

[dankc908]

I tried the spirals once and found I could get more accurate inside cuts with my table saw ! I know, "'tis a poor mechanic who blames his tools". I just couldn't get them to cut where I wanted! Love my FD flat blades.

[Vector01]

I tried to do some lettering...Not so good. I suppose with more practice I could get better results. Being conditioned to use a flat blade it takes a whole different "feel" to use the spirals. I'm looking to do a landscape cut in the future. The spirals will be great for doing bushes, mountain details, bark detail and things like that.

 

Have Fun!

[joleet]

Being a newer scroller, as per the adivse of some members, I tried Mikes FD spirals right off the bat. I was cutting portraits in 1/8" BB ply and using FD 2/0 spirals and it worked quite well, however, they kept comming loose from the bottom clamp, then, I went to 1/2" Red Oak and the breaking started. A member told me that the FD #1 spiral was only slightly bigger and did not break as much so I tried the #1 spirals and to my amazement, they did not slip or break. Now thats just about all I use. I also found out that if I try to push or rush the cut even a little bit, they would break, so when I feel my arms, I know the blade is getting dull and so i either slow down or change the blade. I tried the flat blades and for some reason, I just can't cut with them. I guess it's what you get used to.... Ron T.

[Travis]

I use both flats and spirals, depending on what I'm cutting. Many of my patterns have a very organic line with lots of squiggles (especially in portraits). I find spirals work well for that. However, if I have long arches or straight lines or patterns that don't have a lot of variation in the line, I find flat blades work better. So I guess it depends on what I want to accomplish. I like 'em both.

[The MediaBoy]

Do you use them? If you do, How often do they break on you? the wife wanted me to cut out a butterfly for her out 1/8" finnish birch ply ts about 30 or 35 cuts and i'm about half way thru the cutting and used 4 blades so far! i've been getting maybe 5 cuts per blade somethings up i think there defective blades (olsen) forget the size thou

 

Blame, I use spiral blades almost exclusively. You say that you are cutting 1/8" Finnish Birch, but you didn't say if it was one piece or several stacked pieces? For one piece, 4 blades seems a little much. Keep in mind that the glue in Finnish Birch is more weather-resistant than the glue in Baltic Birch -- and that exterior glue is much tougher on any blade.

 

I normally stack cut 4 pieces of 1/8" Baltic Birch/Red Oak plywood at a time, and use #2/0 and #1 spiral blades. Usually FD "New Spirals," but I have used Olsen spirals with pretty good results. In both cases, about 5 cuts (of course depending on how LARGE the cut is) per blade in a stack of 4 pieces of 1/8" BB ply is probably a little abnormal. It's not unusual for me to use 3 dozen spiral blades on a piece with 200-300 cuts, but I change blades once one gets dull. Forcing a dull blade to cut in an intricate piece is just asking for trouble.

 

Spiral blades breaking in the middle usually points to one of three things: 1.) Too much tension on the blade. 2.) Bending or kinking the blade when feeding it thru a hole, or, 3.) Slop in your saw's stroke. In other words, the tension varies during the stroke, which sort of 'jerks' on the blade.

 

I do break spiral blades now and again, but not that often. When one does break it's usually because I bent it while feeding it thru a hole and the bend formed a weak spot.

[eugene]

I have thought of using spiral blades but the negatives seem to outweigh the positive. I have read about all the "fuzzies" that spiral blades leave - I hate to sand! Or that you should stack cut your work to make the blade easier to control - I don't like to stack cut. So far this has been enough to stop me from experimenting with them. Everybody raves about them but I not so sure.

 

I cut mostly 1/8" baltic birch plywood or door skins, and 1/4" plywood. I use a Olson Crown Tooth #2 blade. I love them because the cut is so smooth you only have to "gently wipe" a pieece of sandpaper across the front and back to remove "fuzzies." Thats it, virtually no sanding.

 

Blade control is not an issue. They track great and have no drawbacks that I can see. If you use one and they won't track, then simply turn them upside down and they will work perfectly. Despit what the manufacturer claims about being able to cut both ways, they will only track (easily follow the line) one way.

 

Hope I haven't upset any of you "spiral blade purists" with my ideas.

[Christina]

I only use FD new spirals...........#1. I've never had any problem with breakage or slipping. They last me through several projects whether it's hardwood or BB. Now making nice straight or curved cuts without wiggles is another story lmbo!

Christina

[Travis]

...Now making nice straight or curved cuts without wiggles is another story lmbo!...

 

LOL...Yah, spiral blades aren't really built for straight or smooth lines. They really shine with organic and squiggly lines. My dad uses spirals and complains he can't get good straight lines. I'm trying to talk him into trying flat blades for that. But, sometimes its hard to change when you get use to something.

[Christina]

Naw Travis it's the operator not the blades lolol. I tried learning with flat blades and geez what a mess! I thought this really can't be that hard........like using a sewing machine, which I've done my entire life. NOT. Then I tried the spirals and OMGoodness what a difference. I do okay unless I get over confident and try to get in a hurry. I hear everyone talking about speeding up with different woods and I try it and mess it up everytime.

 

I just think the choice of blades, as with anything else, is a personal choice. Some do better with this one......but another person might not have the same experiences with the same one.

 

Eventually when I'm able to get a better saw I will probably give flat blades a try again........and actually maybe get it right this time lolololol.

Christina

[greasemonkeyredneck]

It depends on what I'm cutting. I've only been scrolling for about six months though. When I first started, I bought a variety pack of flat blades and one variety pack of spirals. I guess because I learned on both, I can comfortably use both. I lucked out though. I run across a $25 direct drive Craftsman at a yard sale that takes only pin end blades. So now I keep my Craftsman set up for anything that has long staight cuts where I can use a pin end. Then on my Delta is where I do my intricate fretwork. I use almost exclusivly spirals on there. I love my spirals. Like a lot of wood techniques though, if you want to start a very heated discussion and possibly an argument, get a b unch of scrollers together and ask which is better, flats or spirals.

As for the control issue I've heard so much about with spirals, I have no problem with them. When I first started though, you would have thought I had a full time job of destroying a bunch of spiral blades. The broken blades were piling up faster than the sawdust. I found that you have to find a "sweet spot" that just happens to be different for each person. That "sweet spot" I'm referring to is the point at which the blade is tight enough to control it while not so tight as to break it. Once you find that spot, I guarantee that spirals will take your scroll work to a whole other level. You can look at some of my work in the gallery section of this site (greemonkeyredneck) or you can go to http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/ . On the scroll work, every inside cut was done with spirals, and I've only been scrolling for a little over six months.

[MrJ]

I use spiral blades 100%. I cut 3/4 oak and anything I do I use spiral blades. I use 2/0-0-1 sizes.

[Christina]

Yep Greasemonkey I agree with you on that sweet spot. I love my spirals and at first I had a great pile of broken blades too............but it didn't take me long to figure it out lol. I bought an old 13" Delta from my neighbor and it takes pinned blades only..........I use it when I need really straight cuts that I can't achieve with spirals.

 

I'm the same MrJ. I use 2/0 spirals mostly and sometimes I use 1/0. I have fantastic control with these as opposed to the flat blades. When I use flat blades I can't cut circles or do curves well at all. Can't seem to keep them in line at all lol. I'm sure it's just me but geez! Now I don't make nearly as much designer firewood lololol.

Christina

[amazingkevin]

I've tryed them a very few times with bad results.On the delta with quick release they did good ,but on saws with thumb screw blade tighteners i have problems with the blade walking out before it's snug .I have enough problems with this new saw, dremil that an added problem is another coal in the fire for disgust.I see a great advantage with them for the portrats and scencery.One day i'll try again as i have build up a variety of them from multi packs before i found mike's.Being spiral shaped ,leads me to think that they are springy,so tention would vary a lot as you cut fast or slow .I guess thats the sweet spot your looking for.Glad i found the village as many many answers are answerd here just by browsing .this blog is very old but the info is new and very much needed for me thank you much everybody

[amazingkevin]

I haven't laughed this hard in a long time .!thank you DANKC 908 for the funny one about you can get better inside cuts with a circular saw than with spiral blades! that was a funny .i'm still chuckling and the smile is from ear to ear.americas funnyest should here that one!lol

[Pixman]

I use both flat and spiral blades depending on he pattern. Where I need straight lines I use a flat. For portraits or patterns with more of an "Impressionist" effect I use a spiral - usually a #2 - so I can move in any direction. Sprirals will drive you a bit crazy at first but practice on your scrap bits and you'll get the hang of them. Magic

[OkieArkie]

I'm a dedicated flat blader, but I'm convinced that ever works for you is the blade to use. Most flat bladers use skip tooth blades as their bread and butter blade, not me. I use double tooth blades. They give me more control and yes, you have to cut a slower rate. That is what I need because I try to cut at a faster rate of speed than i can control skip tooth blades. So the bottom line is use the blades that works best for you.