JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 Finishing is an art in itself but I would like to point out unless you are using a gloss finish on fret work which I do not like, then being particular about getting into the frets is over kill. You spray the project at all 360 degree angles and I start in the back. Oh by the way when top coating with a lacquer or poly or even shellac it is a great idea to do both sides to prevent warping. You are sealing the pores of the grain on one side and movement is not the same all around the project. Finishing101. With satin gloss or shellacs the shine is not noticable if you missed a spot inside a fret cutout. I use satin lacquer all the time on fret work and have no problems. Here is an example. Satin lacquer 6 coats. OzarkSawdust, scrollingforsanity and meflick 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill WIlson Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 That's the beauty of shellac, in that it is meant to be applied in very thin coats. And since it dries very fast, I can hit the piece from many different angles, focusing on the inside edges and hard to reach areas, without building too much of a film on the surface. I could never get away with that using poly/varnish. I like lacquer, but can't stand the smell. I occasionally spray my shellac in the basement. I could never do that with lacquer. I spray my shellac with a cheap HVLP gun. That way I can regulate the amount of liquid in the spray. I can also minimize the overspray, so I don't get a fog when I spray indoors. I don't have as much luck using the rattle cans. I don't think it atomizes the liquid nearly as well as the spray gun and I have to be very careful not to over coat. OzarkSawdust and kmmcrafts 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 Agree with the spray cans.. I often thought about using my spray equipment to try shellac as well as the water based poly.. in fact.. I bought a quart of both of them at one time and never did try it.. mostly didn't want to damage my expensive auto shop spray equipment.. while it is rebuildable but I just didn't want to have to fuss with it.. been meaning to get a cheaper gun just to mess with.. BUT... honestly I've been quite satisfied with the Danish oil so why bother.. It has a small amount of poly already in it.. Also JT is right about the gloss spray.. and I believe that is where I went wrong years ago.. I have since switch to satin for everything that I do coat with a top coat which is only portraits and I do very little of them since they are not a very big seller for me.. JT your work and finishes always are top notch.. wonderful job on that.. I have used BLO and top coated with satin lacquer a year or two back per a topic you had posted to with your suggestion so I tried it.. I do like the look of it.. But it's not very economical for me to do this.. I may be wrong as it does look nice.. I'm just not sure the addition of price to my pieces for the extra steps, materials, and time would be worth the effort.. also with selling online and taking orders as I do.. this would add to my turnaround times.. People now days are willing to sacrifice quality with time and money and the way I run things seems to be working.. When I slow back down to just hobby status in a couple years I may start doing the stuff in this way like you do.... scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudson River Rick Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 Hi JT, you did a great job on that "HIGH ROLLERS" desk clock. Is that pattern available anywhere??? Thanks for sharing. OzarkSawdust and Roberta Moreton 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkSawdust Posted February 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2020 So am I gathering that a base coat of Shellac, spray or dipped, set 24 hrs. then hit it with a couple LIGHT coats of satin Lacquer…? Would look good on the cross and backer? If so...that sounds like the easy and quick way to finish this project in the winter shop. Might try different things on test pieces at home in 2-3 months. scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted February 4, 2020 Report Share Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, Hudson River Rick said: Hi JT, you did a great job on that "HIGH ROLLERS" desk clock. Is that pattern available anywhere??? Thanks for sharing. Sorry no that is my idea. I did have someone make the cards pattern for me. Her name was Sylvia( JR Ranger) I do not know if she released the pattern to the public. You can google it. I think Steve Good has something similar if I remember well. I made the Wooden Dice for the clock insert. Have not yet made the themed pen for this but it is on my to do list. Edited February 4, 2020 by JTTHECLOCKMAN scrollingforsanity 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted February 12, 2020 Report Share Posted February 12, 2020 On 2/1/2020 at 4:59 PM, OzarkSawdust said: Thanks Wayne! I've never used Shellac. Spray or dip? Then top coat with Lacquer? How many coats? How long does the shellac take to dry before top coating? I normally spray my stuff. Shellac dries really fast as the stuff I use is mixed with denatured alcohol ( flammable ) and not good for the lungs . Same precautions as spraying lacquer . As for the number of coats of lacquer , the would be defined as the among on protection and sheen you want. Lacquer gets sanded between coats then cleaned, then shot again. Until you acquire the finish you were looking for. Sorry for the late reply, been busy in the shop . OzarkSawdust and scrollingforsanity 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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