new2woodwrk Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 (edited) I've seen several members making oversized projects that go over doors or on walls etc. My questions are: When you do one of these large/oversized projects do you do them in smaller pieces and glue them together, glue them on a backing or do you use a single long piece of wood? My saw is a 20" saw which I think is fairly large/deep for most of my current projects - but there is a project I would like to start that is much deeper than 20", the only way I can think of being able to accomplish this would be to scroll as much on one side, spin it around and do the same on the other side. Is that the optimal or correct way of doing these? Thanks as always in advance Edited February 7, 2020 by new2woodwrk tomsteve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 (edited) I have an ex-21 so close your same size saw. When I did a piece that was 30" on one side it was a pain. I had to drill several holes and move the blade from one to the other, cutting the fret work in sections. If you practice using a spiral blade means you do not have to spin the piece. Unfortunately I never seem to find to time to just practice using spirals, I rarely need them with what I do, so it is just not a priority to me. Good luck EDIT: I have heard of folks twisting the blade 45 to 90 degrees, top and bottom and sawing using that orientation, I have never tried it though. Edited February 7, 2020 by JimErn new2woodwrk, stoney and OCtoolguy 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappile Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 I think if there are places where the pattern could be sectioned, I would then do it in sections, if I did not like spiral blades. But I do like spiral blades so I use them. Coming at the pattern at different sides/angles helps on some, but if you have to do a lot of turning,,, it is sometimes impossible. new2woodwrk, OCtoolguy and stoney 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crupiea Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 You can do it of course but what happens is the sheer weight of the piece starts to become an issue with controlling the fretworks. Plus you will have to be far away from it so add that in and it can get messy real quick. Imagine sitting 20 inches farther from the saw than you currently do. Just seeing the blade will be that much harder. You can cut it into more manageable chunks and just glue it back together. When i do larger pieces like that I use foam board as a backer. Its way lighter and way cheaper than wood. You can paint it also whatever color you like. Plus it doesnt warp. tomsteve, new2woodwrk and OCtoolguy 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomsteve Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 4 hours ago, new2woodwrk said: My saw is a 20" saw which I think is fairly large/deep for most of my current projects - but there is a project I would like to start that is much deeper than 20", the only way I can think of being able to accomplish this would be to scroll as much on one side, spin it around and do the same on the other side. Is that the optimal or correct way of doing these? Thanks as always in advance thats how i do it. one thing to note: i have an ex 16 and thought i could do a 32" sign. i didnt have the room to swing the workpiece when i got to the center so i redid the sign down to 28" to have that room. new2woodwrk and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneMahler Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 I do a few pieces over 3 foot. I use spiral blades to cut them. I lot of people don't like spirals but when you get usd to them and take you time things work out. Spend some time practicing on scraps of wood. stoney, OCtoolguy and new2woodwrk 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted February 7, 2020 Report Share Posted February 7, 2020 Spiral blades is probably the easiest way around this but if you are not familiar with the way they cut it can ruin the piece in a hurry. I have made large mirrors and other projects that were too big for my saw and I have a 26" RBI, but was able to work the blade in ways to cut the outer edges where need be. It usually just a few cuts that are tough to get at. I would twist the blade 90 degrees if I had to. I always had to stand when cutting those type projects because of the extra wood to spin and the center core of my body got in the way for some reason. It is not bad once you figure things out. new2woodwrk, stoney and OCtoolguy 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta Moreton Posted February 9, 2020 Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 I use both straight and spiral blades. This has come in handy a few times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fran L Posted February 9, 2020 Report Share Posted February 9, 2020 I’ve done 2 doortoppers that were about 28” long. I have a Delta 20”. The first one I used straight blades, had to use multiple entrance holes and had to spin it to get it to fit. The main problem was having to step back to spin it, it sometimes got caught on my shirt and made a slight mis-cut. It was also hard to keep your line because you would be standing next to it instead of behind it, what looked straight was actually a slight angle. I ended up turning the saw off until I was positioned right then start again. The second one I used spiral blades and it was much easier. Got pretty good with moving forward, backward, right and left. No issues with the depth. I personally would rather not do a piece like that in pieces. Don’t know if I would be able to glue it together to make it look right. They are fun projects though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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