Vector01 Posted March 29, 2009 Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 Hi All: I'm having problems creating scroll patterns out of photos, drawings, etc. I can look at a photo and create a burn with no problems. I just can't seem to get the scroll pattern design thing. Especially deciding what to cut out and not end up with a bunch of pieces. Are there any tricks or procedures to help when creating a scroll pattern? On my recent work (goldfish) I used Olson 5R/12.5 TPI blades to cut the design. I went thru 6 blades to do it. I used the correct tension and ran around 50% speed (800SPM). The blades lasted about a 1/2 hour each. Is this normal use/wear for this blade on this type of wood? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blame Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 vector what kind of wood and how thick was it? on my dewalt saw i can use flat blades forever as long as i take my time while cutting. spirals are a different story i've been breaking alot of them as of late..... blame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Hi All:I'm having problems creating scroll patterns out of photos, drawings, etc. I can look at a photo and create a burn with no problems. I just can't seem to get the scroll pattern design thing. Especially deciding what to cut out and not end up with a bunch of pieces. Are there any tricks or procedures to help when creating a scroll pattern?... The way I work is to have black be the areas cut out and white be the wood. Then just make sure you don't have any white islands. If you do, you need to add a bridge to hold those pieces in by painting it in with white. After I think I'm done, or close to being done, I print out my pattern and go over it with a red pen. I circle any problem areas, then go back to my pattern and fix them. If you're having trouble with a pattern, feel free to post the pattern and the original pic in the Pattern Maker's Lounge. Designers are very generous about sharing advice or offering feedback for your patterns (we have a good group here). Or if you have a specific question, please ask. We'd be glad to help. ...On my recent work (goldfish) I used Olson 5R/12.5 TPI blades to cut the design. I went thru 6 blades to do it. I used the correct tension and ran around 50% speed (800SPM). The blades lasted about a 1/2 hour each.Is this normal use/wear for this blade on this type of wood?... That seems like a lot of blades to me. 1/2" oak shouldn't dull the blades that fast. Do you use tape on your wood. That will lubricate the blades and keep the blades cooler. That will extend the life of the blades. That's really the only thing I can think of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vector01 Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Hi All: I'll try the colored pen to setup the pattern. I did notice on the used saw blades they were brittle. I tried bending the old ones and they snapped like a dried twig. This usually indicates work hardening caused by heat. I'll try slowing the speed and cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christina Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 When making patterns from colored pictures and from photos it's sometimes easier, when first starting out, to turn them to grayscale...........this keeps the color from confusing you. In burning you are looking at the picture as a whole 3D image and that's the way you think of it. But in scroll saw patterns it's a 2D image........so it's kinda hard going from one to the other until you get used to it. Think of it as Travis says..........the white is the wood and the black is what you cut out............positive and negative. 1. Turn your image to greyscale 2. Use your threshold and play with the settings to get the start of your pattern. 3. Use your paint brush to clean up the pattern and strengthen or create bridges. Use your ZOOM to get in really close where you can see the individual squares (pixels)........this helps alot! 4. Periodically use your flood fill with color to check your pattern...........if all the white areas don't turn to the color you chose.............the leftover white areas are floaters. *You can also use your magic lasso to surround parts of the picture and use the threshold to do parts at a time..........this is particularly handy when you have a photo that has different lighting everywhere. Keep repeating all of it until you are happy with it and then run it through Inkscape to smooth it well. This is all very basic and there can be a whole lot more to it..........but it will give you ideas on how to play around with your program to find what works best for you. If you need any help at all feel free to email me and I will be glad to help you. I do kind of a email tutorial type thing with folks who want to learn. You email me your image and your pattern...........I will use the dreaded red paint brush to circle areas in your pattern that are problems...........then I will make a corrected version of your pattern..........send them both to you along with screen shots to illustrate what I mean and my constructive criticism and advice on what you need to work on. Then you can compare my corrected version to your pattern and try to redo your pattern to be more like mine. It's a learning process that seems to work well for folks. You do it at your own speed, when you have time. And you send me your results to me again critique if you wish..........and you can continue to do this as long as you wish. I am always encouraging and as helpful as I can be..........never negative or mean. We all had to learn and negativity never gets you anywhere!!! It's not required.........it's just a resource if you want it and there is no charge. Christina ellnbchristi@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vector01 Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Hi Christina: Great info...Thanks! I did download GIMP and Inkscape. I'm trying to figure them out The video by Travis about the basic pattern creation helped with Inkscape. Going from burning to scrolling just requires a different approach as you mentioned. I will contact you before I start my next project. Thanks Again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christina Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 You're quite welcome Vector anytime. Anyone who wishes to learn patterns and that needs a little one on one time is welcome to email me. I like to help out and it's so much fun when it all finally clicks! I struggled with it at first too and had some wonderful help. I have downloaded GIMP too but haven't had a chance to play with it and figure it out yet...........and also Photo to Sketch..........but again I haven't had a chance to play with it and figure it out either. I use Paint Shop Pro X2.......only because I had to get a new computer and it had Vista!!! I started out with PSP 8 and it worked fantastically to make patterns. I've also used PSP 9......and there is very little difference from 8. I have CorelDraw....but have never sat down to figure it out. Once upon a long long time ago I used CorelDraw 7 and loved it but can't for the life of me remember what it did. Back then I didn't make scroll saw patterns though. But I did a lot of computer graphics, web backgrounds, etc... It was great for that. Things have, of course, advanced greatly since then and I wouldn't have the first clue how to do it all now. Just give me a holler when you're ready. Christina Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greasemonkeyredneck Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 ---On my recent work (goldfish) I used Olson 5R/12.5 TPI blades to cut the design. I went thru 6 blades to do it. I used the correct tension and ran around 50% speed (800SPM). The blades lasted about a 1/2 hour each. Is this normal use/wear for this blade on this type of wood--- I'm not sure about oak. I very seldom use it. That being said, where did you get your blades from? I've noticed a difference in blades. I use nothing but Olsen. A while back, I strayed away from my usual ordering place and tried another for a cheaper deal. I won't tell you where because I still do a lot of business with this company and don't want to write a negative review of them. However, compared to what I usually get, these blades were crap. I use a lot of spirals. I decided to try the flat end spirals. I order everything by the gross. The first dozen I pulled out I snapped every single one of them before I even turned the saw on. A couple I snapped just by holding them between my fingers and pulling. The second dozen were fine, but compared to my normal #2 spirals, they cut at half the speed. The third dozen you could tighten up, but snapped as soon as you touched wood to them. That leaves me with nine dozen that I hung over my scrollsaw on a nail as a reminder to stick with the company that always treats me right. And that company is? Sloan's Wood Shop. http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/ . Give them a try. I never got anything from them but the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vector01 Posted April 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Yep...Olson blades from Sloane's. For the remainder of the pieces I switched Olson to double-skip tooth blades that lasted much longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul44224 Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 I get all of my blades, and birch ply from Sloans. Great people to deal with! I just don't care for using spirals. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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