oldhudson Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 My current project has a lot of 3/4" hardwood (cherry) in it. What style and brand would you suggest. I've tried Olson #5 and #9 skip tooth. Neither cut very well, really slow. Then I tried and #5 Olson Precision Ground. That worked a lot better, but I can't believe there isn't a better choice. Thanks for reading. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 My personal blade of choice for that would be a Pegas MGT #5 or #7. The MGT is an aggressive reverse tooth blade. I am not knocking them but I am not a big fan of Olson Blades. scrollingforsanity, stoney, OCtoolguy and 1 other 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrsN Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 Not a blade recommendation but I always put a piece of clear packing tape over the top of the pattern when cutting cherry. It greatly reduces the amount of burning. I would use #5 skip tooth in either flying dutchman or olson. GrampaJim, scrollingforsanity, oldhudson and 1 other 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don in brooklin on Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 I add tape to the bottom stop the burning and have been using both #3 and #5 Flying Dutchman Ultra reverse on cherry. oldhudson, scrollingforsanity and OCtoolguy 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTTHECLOCKMAN Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 I use the sam blade as I always do for 99% of my projects and that is the #5 Penquin silver reverse FD blades. They are my go to blades. I will go to a #7 if the wood is oily such a rosewoods but cherry cuts smooth as silk. Just need to use sharp blades, keep project moving at a good pace and let the blade do the work. You start pushing the piece into the blade at angles not good. That is when you get burning. oldhudson, scrollingforsanity and OCtoolguy 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta Moreton Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 Definitely a number 5 blade, and ALWAYS use packing tape when cutting cherry, especially THICK cherry. stoney, scrollingforsanity and OCtoolguy 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 I cut a lot of 3/4" cherry.. I use the shelf liner.. and never had any burning issues.. I also use a #5 Pegas MG blade and cuts really well.. tight turns work well with them too.. My other go to balde was always a FD - UR #5.. but I would sometimes get some burning on tight turns if I wasn't careful.. But boy do those Pegas MG blades work awesome for cutting cherry..I run pretty good speed too.. typically about 7/8 on the dial on the Hawk which probably is around 1600 -1650 SPM.. I run full speed on the EX as it tops out at 1500 SPM.. stoney and scrollingforsanity 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny Knappen Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 As a Pegas distributor, I suggest Pegas #5R MGT or possibly #7R MGT blades. scrollingforsanity, stoney and oldhudson 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scrollerpete Posted February 19, 2020 Report Share Posted February 19, 2020 (edited) I cut lot’s of cherry and either the FDUR # 3 or 5 , Pegas MGT #3R or 5R but also you need packing tape on top or under the wood specially cherry wood or it will leave burn marks. Edited February 19, 2020 by scrollerpete scrollingforsanity and oldhudson 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gonzo Posted February 20, 2020 Report Share Posted February 20, 2020 Pegas #5 MGT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puzzleguy Posted February 23, 2020 Report Share Posted February 23, 2020 (edited) Oldhudson , from years of experience I have to say this - whats best for you may not be my first choice -it depends on your saw and how you use it - like how hard you push it , wood ,etc - even the individual piece of wood can vary in density from piece to piece - also depends on how tight you want the pieces to fit together -9's might be too much and 5's might be right on -but again it varys from scroller to scrollsaw used -as well as the speed and the brand and type of blade . Edited February 23, 2020 by Puzzleguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.