JeffM Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Newbie here so please hang in there with me while I learn the ropes here. I have inherited an old Sears and Roebuck (name on the model badge) bench top scroll saw that appears to be in great shape. The only problem is that the lower blade clamp casting is split where the set screw goes in--so no tightening at all to hold the blade. Is it possible to get a new or used lower blade clamp for something like this? I have no idea where to begin to look so any help would be greatly appreciated. The badge on the body of the saw has the model number 103.0404. Thanks for any insight. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Hi Jeff ,There's a few places that have these and many other parts for scrollsaws.i don't remember the names of the places but someone will get back to you soon. :)searspartsdirect.com is one of many. :)toolpartsdirect.com is another Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Messman Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 I would check with sears first to see if they have a replacement part for that saw or if they have one thet will work for that saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffM Posted March 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Some great ideas but it appears that a museum might be a good place to start. Toolpartsdirect.com doesn't appear to carry any parts for Craftsman/Sears and Roebuck brand items, unless I'm looking right at it and missing it. As for searspartsdirect I emailed them and just heard back--- "we no longer carry any parts for this model" and they don't have any other places to look. This forecast is not good! I wonder if there is another brand of saw that would have parts that would work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 Let sleeping dog lay.Treat your self to a new saw you will appreciate the benifits.Look on craigs list,pawn shops i used back up saws from them for 50 bucks and some were new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolbeltman Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Hi Jeff...could you post a pic of the broken part?...it will help us diagnose your problem better. Some great minds here raring to help out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffM Posted March 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 Here goes on the pictures. I'm not sure how the picture size will come out on this so don't be surprised if it posts as "clampzilla". The threaded rod part of the clamp appears to come off with a couple of set screws so the only needed part is the casting. I may have to take Kevin's advice and let this dog sleep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolbeltman Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 There has got to be a ton of these saws out there...you would think that as the clamp is one of the most important parts that it would of been better made...it would be a pity to let a good saw die over such a small part..(nice pics that you posted by the way)...I'll keep looking for a saviour for you..fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Messman Posted March 3, 2011 Report Share Posted March 3, 2011 What about taking it to a machine shop and having them weld that puppy shut after they bring those to edges back together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maurvz800 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Maybe try some epoxy in the split,then clamp it in a vise to close it.I have a Craftsman that the UPPER blade holder split...I can get a new one,but about $30 w shipping is a lil more than I want to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maurvz800 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Taking a closer look at your pics..when you clamp the part together,I would be sure to thread the proper size bolt in the threads before the epoxy fully sets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolbeltman Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Thays a good idea with the Epoxy....I would wax up the screw good before screwing it into wet epoxy though...you could also tap the thread out after it set...(maybe safer) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paura Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 I'm with Messman i think you should take it to a machine shop or a local votec school my son went through that class its unreal what those kids can make Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Can you fill it with JB Weld and retap the hole? I used JB Weld on an alternater bracket and it held for over 6 years. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qlty Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 That's the worse with sears when you buy replacement parts they tend to be quite expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-Woodman Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 You don't need a "casting" to hold a scrollsaw blade. It's hard to tell the demensions of this blade holder, but I have made some for my saws. Just take a 1/2" square x maybe 5/8" long piece of steel (available at the hardware store) ,drill and tap a hole in the bottom for your stud. drill and tap another hole ( for the one your set screws go into ) , then drill a small hole (maybe 1/8" ) in the top for your blade to go into. This hole should be about 1/2" deep or so. Screw one set screw into each side up to the blade hole ( use a little locktite on one hole) , insert blade into 1/8" hole and continue to screw each set screw from both sides until blade is centered in hole. You can even grind the end of the set screws flat before inserting to rest flat against blade. Taps are cheap, and you can use a wrench as a tap handle if you don't have one. Use cutting oil while tapping, and tap a turn and back it off and go again . later Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffM Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 These are all great ideas. I think for starters I'm going to talk to a machine shop friend of mine just to see what he says. I like the epoxy /JB weld idea but my only concern is that it would not be strong enough to hold the blade firm especially if I am making some quick turns. That idea seems like the best shot for now. I do like Daniel's idea about making a clamp. I've done some drilling and tapping before but I'm really not very good at it. I'll keep you all posted on what my machine shop friend says and any other brainstorm ideas are very much welcomed! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amazingkevin Posted March 8, 2011 Report Share Posted March 8, 2011 Very interesting ideas ,ssv to the rescue! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan-Woodman Posted April 2, 2011 Report Share Posted April 2, 2011 Whats the latest on your lower clamp venture? later Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy chew Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 hey Jeff 103 is manufacturer code if you can find whom this is may help a lot . check e-bay if you havn't already i believe i have seen this style holder on there in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy chew Posted April 3, 2011 Report Share Posted April 3, 2011 Jeff your part new will be super hard too find . rebuild your or make new. I got afew simple ideas PM me if u want. but first your a newby too scroll saw? have you used a springer arm saw before? the spring return can be a headache in blades and the blood presure. Don't get me wrong i love this true blade action of this saws. The saw i build are base off this design but blade return is a positive one. you may want too look at a new saw like a parallel arm saw. too get started out just easier too use and get adjusted with then go back and try the craftsman saw at a later time> ATC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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