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Need lower blade clamp for old Craftsman bench top


JeffM

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Newbie here so please hang in there with me while I learn the ropes here.

I have inherited an old Sears and Roebuck (name on the model badge) bench top scroll saw that appears to be in great shape. The only problem is that the lower blade clamp casting is split where the set screw goes in--so no tightening at all to hold the blade. Is it possible to get a new or used lower blade clamp for something like this? I have no idea where to begin to look so any help would be greatly appreciated. The badge on the body of the saw has the model number 103.0404. Thanks for any insight.

Jeff

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Some great ideas but it appears that a museum might be a good place to start. Toolpartsdirect.com doesn't appear to carry any parts for Craftsman/Sears and Roebuck brand items, unless I'm looking right at it and missing it.

 

As for searspartsdirect I emailed them and just heard back--- "we no longer carry any parts for this model" and they don't have any other places to look. This forecast is not good!

I wonder if there is another brand of saw that would have parts that would work?

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Here goes on the pictures. I'm not sure how the picture size will come out on this so don't be surprised if it posts as "clampzilla".

The threaded rod part of the clamp appears to come off with a couple of set screws so the only needed part is the casting. I may have to take Kevin's advice and let this dog sleep.

 

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file.php?mode=view&id=4536&sid=d960ec434b2cce5d316af0ab6969fd6d

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There has got to be a ton of these saws out there...you would think that as the clamp is one of the most important parts that it would of been better made...it would be a pity to let a good saw die over such a small part..(nice pics that you posted by the way)...I'll keep looking for a saviour for you..fingers crossed.

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You don't need a "casting" to hold a scrollsaw blade. It's hard to tell the demensions of this blade holder, but I have made some for my saws. Just take a 1/2" square x maybe 5/8" long piece of steel (available at the hardware store) ,drill and tap a hole in the bottom for your stud. drill and tap another hole ( for the one your set screws go into ) , then drill a small hole (maybe 1/8" ) in the top for your blade to go into. This hole should be about 1/2" deep or so. Screw one set screw into each side up to the blade hole ( use a little locktite on one hole) , insert blade into 1/8" hole and continue to screw each set screw from both sides until blade is centered in hole. You can even grind the end of the set screws flat before inserting to rest flat against blade.

Taps are cheap, and you can use a wrench as a tap handle if you don't have one. Use cutting oil while tapping, and tap a turn and back it off and go again .

later Daniel

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These are all great ideas. I think for starters I'm going to talk to a machine shop friend of mine just to see what he says. I like the epoxy /JB weld idea but my only concern is that it would not be strong enough to hold the blade firm especially if I am making some quick turns. That idea seems like the best shot for now. I do like Daniel's idea about making a clamp. I've done some drilling and tapping before but I'm really not very good at it. I'll keep you all posted on what my machine shop friend says and any other brainstorm ideas are very much welcomed!

Jeff

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  • 4 weeks later...

Jeff your part new will be super hard too find . rebuild your or make new. I got afew simple ideas PM me if u want. but first your a newby too scroll saw? have you used a springer arm saw before? the spring return can be a headache in blades and the blood presure. Don't get me wrong i love this true blade action of this saws. The saw i build are base off this design but blade return is a positive one. you may want too look at a new saw like a parallel arm saw. too get started out just easier too use and get adjusted with then go back and try the craftsman saw at a later time> ATC

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