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Flying Dutchman Blades For New People.


Fedido

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Hey,

Just thought being new to Scrolling, I would share an experience I have had with blades. I have been using Olson blades, .053 think for 1/2 oak and Pine. They are the only ones I can get locally. I finally exhausted those supplies and moved onto Flying Dutchman blades. I went with number 7's and put my first one into oak. in about 7.7 seconds, the first one broke. I figured I would give another one a try since I don't trust the operator and it has been cutting awesomely. Stays sharper longer too. I only share this for new scrollers as the experts already know this. I hope this helps at least one person. 

 

Hendo

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1 hour ago, Fedido said:

Hey,

Just thought being new to Scrolling, I would share an experience I have had with blades. I have been using Olson blades, .053 think for 1/2 oak and Pine. They are the only ones I can get locally. I finally exhausted those supplies and moved onto Flying Dutchman blades. I went with number 7's and put my first one into oak. in about 7.7 seconds, the first one broke. I figured I would give another one a try since I don't trust the operator and it has been cutting awesomely. Stays sharper longer too. I only share this for new scrollers as the experts already know this. I hope this helps at least one person. 

 

Hendo

I have had a difference experience.  I have found that Olsen PG #7 or #5 blades outlast Flying Dutchman blades. I am cutting 3/4" pine, mostly making 3d figures.  Pegas blades seem to last longer than Flying Dutchman blades also.

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Thanks for the question. Right now, I have Polar in there. I also have Ultra Reverse as well, but haven't used that yet. You bring up a point about different styles, but when I first started looking at upgrading my blades, there are so many types, it became overwhelming, which is why I am trying to narrow down for someone just starting like me. 

Hendo

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4 minutes ago, Sycamore67 said:

Which FD blade did you use?   Polar, Reverse, Ultra Reverse??   They all cut differently.

I use FD Polar #5 on oak up to 3/4" with no problems .  

The key with blades is to find one that works for you and your saw and cutting style.

Exactly!!  It's like wine recommendations, the best wine for you is the one "you" like.

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Agree with Larry.. A lot plays a role in blade life beside what you're cutting.. like.. how hard you feed the wood to the blade and how straight on you're feeding the blade.. If you push slightly to one or the other side of the blade then the blade gets hot and weakens it.. thus dulling the blade quicker.. 

I've had people tell me you cannot run a saw full speed with cherry without burning the wood.. I disagree with that..... I cut mostly cherry.. and almost always run my saw full speed.. I've burnt cherry more by running the saw slow.. which made me "push" harder than i should have which created heat.. so you have to find that perfect blade for the project that works for you so you're not pushing through but rather just letting the blade do the work.

So with that all said.. You have to find a blade that you're comfortable with the cutting at hand.. and for a newbie.. you just gotta "try" things to find what works best for "you" 

 

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I use FD UR nearly exclusively.  Have cut 1/4 oak with #3 and #5 successfully.  I have tried the other fads but always go back to what I know. 

Blades to a scroller is like balls to a golfer - mine go straighter, don't break, slice when I want them to, last longer and are cheaper.

It is what you get used to.

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Thank you all, for the feedback. All great points. I recently used Purpleheart wood and didn't have a burning problem, then again I used painters tape on the back. The only time I had burning really is when I overworked the blade in one area. Anyways, someone getting into scrolling might find this beneficial. 

 

Hendo

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