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Cutting wooden wheel


planeur

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               Being my first project of that kind , I have to improvise some technique, so here it is !

 

                       IMG_0907.thumb.JPG.2c038bc4206f641bea5dd29510bdb93f.JPG

 

                                    What do you think of my technique to cut the wheel? I begin by cutting all the round top of each tooth  ,

                                  then I cut all the left  side of each tooth, then  the  right  side to the bottom.
                                        I try other manners and I found that I was doing a better job like that .

                                  What is your technique to do that ?

                                 I will be posting the beginning of it very soon!

                              Thanks         

                               planeur                              

                                                                                

 

 

Edited by planeur
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Everyone has their different style that works for them.. To me (being I'm a production minded cutter ) seems like a lot of extra cutting and blades to go through to get to a finished piece.. I'd have just started at one point and cut it out all in one shot..

Looks like you might have quite a project started.. be interested to see the process and the finished piece.

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40 minutes ago, planeur said:

I agree with you Kevin but I am not yet  sure enough of my means to make the small curves, but it's coming !😉

And I will try to use smaller blade , I had used the Pegas #5 (12X). And the piece is quite thick .500" !

 

Have a good day, I am going skiing , skating cross country😀

planeur

My wife like the cross country skiing.. I've never really tried it.. More of a bicyclist myself.. riding is quite interesting in the snow though.. when i was younger it didn't stop me much... neither did the cold.. but now.. I just ride on nicer days.. In my younger days it was almost a daily thing to get up  early and ride all day.. not come home until dark.. and do nothing but ride all day long.. Dad put a odometer / speedometer on my bike because he always thought I was just hanging out at friends houses.. when he seen it was nothing for me to be doing 100 - 150 miles a day on my bike.. nobody could believe it.. Then when I got a drivers licence I still rode my bike to work (8 miles )  at the lumber mill work 8-10 hours stacking lumber coming off the mill or making pallets and then ride home.. These days.. I could do it still.. but I might not do it again for several days.. back then it was every day, LOL

 

:)  Enjoy you skiing. 

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I built my first clock back in 2013 It was a Brian Law clock that SSWWC magazine asked me to make. 

Most important is of course the precise location of the center hole. 

I drew a circle about 1/8 outside the top of the teeth.  I then cut the teeth gullets.

I found this process eliminated the chipping of the plywood tooth ends. I made a Jig for my disk sander. Tips were all precisely centered on the center of the gear. the article was in the Summer issue of SSWWC.

FIG 1 Cutting gear perimeter (Large).jpg

Fig 2 Cutting gear notice tips (Large).jpg

Fig 4 Gear sanding closeup (Large).jpg

Edited by Rolf
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Thanks Rolf, they are good tips and tricks, I will make also a jig for sanding the wheel. I had saw that jig before.

Good idea also for the ext. cercle. In fact you cut to the ext. cercle without much precision, then sand at the right dimension.  

What kind  of blade are you using ?

planeur

Edited by planeur
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10 hours ago, octoolguy said:

I watched Matthias Wandel's video again today and he cuts his gears using an inverted jig saw. What we cut on our scroll saws come out much better and far smoother. 

That is a pretty rough cut and would require a lot of cleanup but is perfect for that application.. His creativity is very impressive. 

I use the Olson 2/0 reverse 28 TPI for all of my precise cuts. It is a slow cutting blade making it very controllable. I  have also recently used  the Pegas 28 TPI blade with no reverse teeth. it cuts faster bout leaves a bit of fuzz on the bottom side that I gently take off with a mop.

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4 hours ago, Rolf said:

That is a pretty rough cut and would require a lot of cleanup but is perfect for that application.. His creativity is very impressive. 

I use the Olson 2/0 reverse 28 TPI for all of my precise cuts. It is a slow cutting blade making it very controllable. I  have also recently used  the Pegas 28 TPI blade with no reverse teeth. it cuts faster bout leaves a bit of fuzz on the bottom side that I gently take off with a mop.

Yes for sure Rolf. Big difference between what he cuts and precision clock gears. I am really looking forward to making a clock. I might cut some practice gears just to get the hang of it. Do you have any suggestions as to what clock would be a good choice for a novice clock builder? We have no wall space so I guess I'm limited in that respect. But, if I do an exceptional job, I might get a spot somewhere in the house. 

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planeur, I like his sanding jig design. The one I made was a quick "down and dirty" as I didn't have a lot of time to build the clock for the article.  If I do another I will certainly build something like this jig.

Ray, all clocks have their challenges, I have built three. The first was a weight and pendulum driven, I hung it on the dining room wall, the other side of it is our bedroom. My wife came in and said to come listen to the clock. the wall was acting like an amplifier. The clock went to Fox Chapels office. The Second clock was the "Flying Pendulum" clock, it is spring powered. A fascinating clock to watch but a challenge to build. The third was the "Electromagnetic clock. it is battery powered. and the easiest to build in my opinion as the gears don't mesh. But it also has some challenging bits. 

They all require patience and precision. But having said that, the first time you see one you built running is incredibly satisfying. 

Electro magnetic.JPG

Flying pendulum Clock.jpg

Gear Clock-3.jpg

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On March 3, 2020 at 12:59 PM, octoolguy said:

Yes for sure Rolf. Big difference between what he cuts and precision clock gears. I am really looking forward to making a clock. I might cut some practice gears just to get the hang of it. Do you have any suggestions as to what clock would be a good choice for a novice clock builder? We have no wall space so I guess I'm limited in that respect. But, if I do an exceptional job, I might get a spot somewhere in the house. 

Ray,

woodengear-clocks.com has some really cool clocks to build. I spent one winter cutting and assembling the Ascent clock. Unfortunately, it doesn't work, but still was/is an awesome project. However, I have every intention of re-making it.  Also, Jeff is really good to work with. 

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21 hours ago, planeur said:

Beautiful clocks 😎 Rolf , I am not yet there , but it's coming slowly but surely !

 

Question: how do you make the hour numbers on your clocks ?

Have a good day!

planeur

On my first clock I just cut out the numbers on the scroll saw.  On the flying pendulum clock I did a beveled inlay. My mistake was using aspen for the numbers, which was way too soft. 

Holly would have been a much better choice.

For me to say that was a challenging inlay is a bit of an understatement.

Edited by Rolf
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