Spiral Insanity

[ScollSaw Slasher]

Well being in lock down, decided to conquer the demons of spiral blades. Have occasionally tried over the years, but since I don't do many portraits, gone by the wayside. Well doing one of the American Indian patterns from this site and so giving  it a try. Found out a few things. Even though I like cutting with the 2/0, they are so flimsy that they turn into a pretzel in about 15 minutes of use. The 1 and 3 are better, so the big cuts will be handled with them and the real small cuts at the finale will be with the 2/0. So far, I'm getting to like them. The question for you spiral gurus? Do you prefer pushing the wood into the blade as with normal scroll saw blades or pulling the wood into the blade. So far, I'm just moving the wood any way I feel would be easiest which I guess is supposed to be the beauty of spiral blades. Maybe in a few days, I'll even post the final product in the show and tell section. Stay safe guys and gals.

Blake

[WayneMahler]

Lock down seems to running rampant. Our Governor has the county I live is under it . I use spirals for certain  things, mainly stuff ;larger then my saw. I find that taking your time and going slower helps a lot. I use a lot of 0/3 and don't have many problems with it. Going slow keeps the heat down and gives better control . As for moving around the pattern I go what ever way the lines are running. Keep in mind these cut in 360 degrees so they are almost always cutting some wood which makes it a little harder to keep them cooler. Best of luck, it's has it's own learning curve.

[Wilson142]

95% of my cutting is done with spirals. I have a Dewalt and as many state it can seem a bit more aggressive than some other saws. I find my saw likes to cut better on the push stroke. I can also hold a straight line while pulling but for my style, pulling requires me to slow down a bit. I run with far more tension than with flat blades. I have never really had a noticeable problem with hot blades. I think people get wrapped up in the idea they can cut in any direction with spirals. Yes, you can but you don't HAVE to. I turn my wood quite often. Some times long curves etc. just seem easier for me when I do. People , especially those that never use spirals get confused when someone says they use 2/0 and 3/0 blades a lot. If you compare a 2/0 spiral blade next to a #2 or #3 flat blade things begin to make sense. I use a lot of 2/0 blades and when I use even a #5 flat blade it amazes me the size of the blade. I started with spiral blades back in the mid 80's because there were no "experts" or youtube videos to tell me I was insane. Now I struggle with straight blades and other than less sanding and a nicer cut surface, I'm not sure why I try.

 

[kmmcrafts]

the majority of the time I spin the board around a bit so as to cut from the front of the blade as if it's a flat blade.. I will cut from the sides on slight curves etc.. but the majority of cutting it the front.. That said.. I sometimes will take the blade out and re-install it so I can make use of the teeth on the back side too... since I rarely cut on the back portion of the blade..

[fredfret]

I cut a little faster pushing the wood into the blade but I rarely turn the wood.  I use 2/0 and #1 when using spirals. 

[Dave Monk]

Maybe I am doing something wrong but I hate the fuzzies spiral blades leave. If you have a recommendation of a blade that takes care of this let me know.

[JimErn]

9 hours ago, Dave Monk said:

Maybe I am doing something wrong but I hate the fuzzies spiral blades leave. If you have a recommendation of a blade that takes care of this let me know.

Add me to that list, I feel the same way.  The ease of cutting (in some respects) is not worth the added work of removing fuzzzies.

[kmmcrafts]

For the fuzzies... I typically stack cut everything I make.. and especially portrait style stuff that I use the spirals for.. Before I separate the stacks I use my RO sander and sand the back as best I can.. The very bottom of the stack always seems to be the worst one.. but the others do get some fuzzies too.. Then run a small handheld LP torch around the cuts after I separate the stack.. seems to work very well for me.. BUT.. I don't use the spirals real often.. typically only on portraits and I cut very few of those as they just don't sell very well for me.. also depends on the portrait too.. many of them I do just use straight blades for as well.. so it does depend on the cutting too..    

[RangerJay]

Most of my work is fine fretwork and spirals have become my blade of choice for a long time now - it's rare that I will use a flat blade on any fretwork any more.  My go-to blade is a 3/0 FD, sometimes a 1/0 FD - very rare that I use a larger blade.

Here's a couple thoughts for you:

• keep your saw tuned - meaning the blade is absolutely vertical to the table - straight up and down - side to side - and front to back.
• keep your blade tight.
• use slow speed and slow feed till you find the sweet spot - which can be very different from project to project depending on wood thickness and species
• if you find yourself pushing (or pulling) too much then it's time to change, or re-tension, the blade.
• stay focused on smooth and gentle movements - distractions (of any kind) are a guaranteed wobble in your cut.
• on fuzzies: i always soften my cut edges with a sanding mop - meaning the fuzzies are also removed.

Spirals do have a bit of a learning curve but for fine fretwork and on larger projects they really do excel (IMHO).

Thanks,

 

Jay

[Scrappile]

58 minutes ago, RangerJay said:

Most of my work is fine fretwork and spirals have become my blade of choice for a long time now - it's rare that I will use a flat blade on any fretwork any more.  My go-to blade is a 3/0 FD, sometimes a 1/0 FD - very rare that I use a larger blade.

Here's a couple thoughts for you:

• keep your saw tuned - meaning the blade is absolutely vertical to the table - straight up and down - side to side - and front to back.
• keep your blade tight.
• use slow speed and slow feed till you find the sweet spot - which can be very different from project to project depending on wood thickness and species
• if you find yourself pushing (or pulling) too much then it's time to change, or re-tension, the blade.
• stay focused on smooth and gentle movements - distractions (of any kind) are a guaranteed wobble in your cut.
• on fuzzies: i always soften my cut edges with a sanding mop - meaning the fuzzies are also removed.

Spirals do have a bit of a learning curve but for fine fretwork and on larger projects they really do excel (IMHO).

Thanks,

 

Jay

Jay, some time get a pack of Pegas 2/0 spirals.  Their size seems to be just between the FD 3/0 and 2/0.   At least that is how they feel to me.  Since I tried them, my go to spirals are Pegas 2/0 most used and FD 3/0 for smallest used. 

[ScollSaw Slasher]

Thanks for the tips. I'm going back to my 2/0's. One problem I had was the blades were slipping on the bottom clamp (thus pretzel or breakage). Will dress out the clamp and see if better. Either that or breakdown and buy a Pegas blade clamp set up. But it's coming along even though I didn't do much today.

[spirithorse]

Good luck with your spiral trial.
I haven't really given them much of a chance or a fair comparison because I can
accomplish quite a bit with a straight blade. 
God Bless! Spirithorse

[Sparkey]

I use the FD 3/0 spirals on everything I cut. Never had that problem. I always push, very seldom pull.

[Sparkey]

I don’t get a lot of fuzzies. What I do get I burn off with a small torch in a couple of minutes.

[Newsawontheblock]

On 3/25/2020 at 5:44 AM, kmmcrafts said:

Then run a small handheld LP torch around the cuts after I separate the stack.. seems to work very well for me

The propane torch removes fuzzies unbelievably well!!

[crupiea]

I would rather be on lock down then try to use my spiral blades.  I just dont understand them.  

Edited March 30, 2020 by crupiea