Hegner Users

[Charlie E]

Over the past few projects I've done I've changed the way I feed blades from bottom feeding to just releasing the top clamp and popping the bottom clamp out of the holder, threading the blade through, then putting the piece back on the table putting the bottom clamp back in place then connecting the top. It actually saves me time over bottom feeding and I don't bend blades poking around trying to find the hole. I just wondered if any other Hegner users do this. All the disks in my neck have been fused so it's also much easier on my neck not having to try and look under the piece to find the hole. For me this solved the only thing I didn't like about my saw, the limited amount of space to bottom feed. 

[Rockytime]

I have never done that but I think I'll try that. Removing and replacing the bottom clamp is quick and easy. Some Hegner user here suggested removing the boss at the rear of the saw. Which I have done. It raises the arm considerably. I think I'll try your method. The Hegner clamps are easy. Thanks for the suggestion. 

[kmmcrafts]

I think what you're describing is how I watched them do this on the PS Woods saw demo video... which I've heard is much like a Hegner..

 

[Rolf]

I believe that is why Hegner put the slot in the table. It really does take the strain off you neck!  Now all we need are some pictures of what you are cutting.

I will say, watching the PS wood video I would not want to go through that process if I were cutting a 500 hole fretwork. I think it is much faster on the Hegner.

Edited March 28, 2020 by Rolf

[Rockytime]

I also removed the long bolt for locking the table in place. PITA! Replaced with hex head bolt. 

[Scrappile]

I have not modified my Hegner,,,, other than put a Masonite tabletop on it to give me the availability to easily have a little bigger table top,  I have not changed anything.  I love mine the way it is. 

[Rockytime]

Just my nature. I can't seem to leave things alone. 

[rash_powder]

The single greatest thing you can do for ease of use is to move the arm bump stop on the back down about an inch.  That nets you so much extra space that I can generally see the blade and the hole I want quite easily.  
 

it is a pain to cut, drill, and tap cast iron though.  

[Charlie E]

I may cut the arm bump stop when the warranty is up though it's not much of an issue when removing the blade to thread it. I'm sure most users of the same saw do at least one thing different than everyone else. 

[starman]

This is the method I use on my Hegner.  It is faster than bottom feeding on my Excalibur.

[avenuewood]

Am I right in thinking this bump stop is the small boss with a rubber ring around it?

Just how much extra height does removing it give you?

[Charlie E]

9 hours ago, avenuewood said:

Am I right in thinking this bump stop is the small boss with a rubber ring around it?

Just how much extra height does removing it give you?

Yes that's it but I don't know how much extra height you get as I haven't removed mine. 

[Rockytime]

Glad for the repost. I had forgotten about it. I'll try it tomorrow.

[Rockytime]

Tried it today. Not gonna work for me. My dust collector recepticle is in the way. It's kept there with a magnet but still one more additional step.

[tony coleman]

i find it quite easy the way it is,to channge the blae on the bottom clamp or just to fit you will still need to remove the top clamp

[avenuewood]

I took the plunge today.....

I measured the top clamp height 4”

I removed the rubber bump stop and cut off the “boss”

Tried to drill a new mounting hole and broke the first drill bit. Not messing with that! I fired up the 3D printer and printed a cylindrical piece 1/2” across and 1/4” high.

Glued that to the upright about 1/2” below where the original was.

 I now have 6” height from table to top clamp. Will give that a try for a few days.

 I have tried TOP feeding but just can’t get on with it.

Edited May 26, 2020 by avenuewood