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Mineral oil question


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This has probably been asked & answered before but my search skills never find what I need. I finished the bowl I've been working on and dipped it in natural Watco oil. Can I now apply a couple of coats of mineral oil / bees wax mixture? If the answer is yes, is it something that will need to be refreshed from time to time or is it "one & done"?

 

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Edited by octoolguy
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Interesting bowl and very nice inlay.  As far as the mineral oil and wax, it is not a durable finish.  If the bowl is used much it will need refinished.  I do this on some wooden kitchenware, and all you need to do is rub some on the bowl (I use my hand to apply it, it is actually good for your hands), let it set for a while, then buff it up.

Tom

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Beautiful bowl!

My understanding is that if it's for food you should have skipped the Watco and just stick with

Food-Safe Finishes
  • Pure tung oil. Extracted from the nut of the china wood tree. ...
  • Raw linseed oil. Pressed from flax seeds. ...
  • Mineral oil. Although derived from petroleum, it is colorless, odorless, tasteless and entirely inert. ...
  • Walnut oil. Pressed from the nuts of the walnut tree. ...
  • Beeswax. ...
  • Carnauba wax. ...
  • Shellac.
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1 hour ago, scrollingforsanity said:

Nice job Ray. My stuff never looks like that

 

Thanks for all the info and advice. I probably won't be using it for food. I think my wife has it in her mind to just display it and "maybe" use it at some point for mixed nuts of the type that you have to shell. Like the old days. I don't know. I just want it to look good.

 

 

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9 hours ago, octoolguy said:

 

Thanks for all the info and advice. I probably won't be using it for food. I think my wife has it in her mind to just display it and "maybe" use it at some point for mixed nuts of the type that you have to shell. Like the old days. I don't know. I just want it to look good.

 

 

If you aren't going to use it. you could finish it with anything.

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My concern with using mineral oil at this point, is that you've already sealed the pores of the wood, to some degree, with the Watco.  Mineral oil never dries. It simply soaks into the wood.  I'm not sure what will happen if you apply it over the Watco.  If you have beeswax, I would simply melt a little down and rub it on, over the Watco and skip the mineral oil.  Or for the benefit of science and the rest of us on the forum, you could do a test on some left over scraps.  Finish it with the Watco, same as the original piece, then try the mineral oil/beeswax mix.  See what happens.  It may be fine, but I wouldn't try it on the final piece without testing first.

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You done a beautiful job with cutting and wood choices!!!

I sometimes topcoat with polyurethane after the Danish oil.. Depends on the project and what look I'm after.. 

For bowls and much of the kitchen type things I actually like Watco Butcher Block oil..   I'm not certain what's in it but it gives a clear coat looking finish and it's quite water resistant.. If you wash the bowl the water beads up like a heavy wax was applied.. I don't sell cutting boards but I have made some and use it on those.. it last a good year before needing re coated.. and if it weren't for the knife marks I'd say it'd never need re coated.. It's good stuff.. I use a soft cloth to apply it.. If I get a ot of knife marks in it I sometimes will use the mineral oil & beeswax mix to help along nearing the time I need to re coat with the Butcher Block oil..

https://www.lowes.com/pd/WATCO-Clear-Butcher-Block-Oil-Actual-Net-Contents-16-fl-oz/3153369?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_-219-_-interiorstains-_-3153369-_-0&store_code=1110&placeholder=null&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-r71BRDuARIsAB7i_QMkI4f2wm5Xjm6tUobnquAi24sE_m2nSn9VkHLp49C-jLWwdt1hK5saAghOEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds                                                                                                                                       I 

Edited by kmmcrafts
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6 hours ago, meflick said:

Beautiful looking bowl Ray. I still need to try my first Inlay. What were your errors that you learned from if you don’t mind sharing? 🤔

The biggest thing that I noticed was my choice of blade size. I went by what Carole Rothman suggested, a #5 at 1.5° angle. I should have dropped down to a #3 or even #1. What I ended up with was a good tight fit but a slight gap at the top of the inlay. Next time I'll try to go down a size or two and see what happens. I should have made more practice cuts. Oh well, live and learn. It was a fun project though and I look forward to making more of these.

 

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On 5/3/2020 at 6:11 PM, scrollingforsanity said:

Nice job Ray. My stuff never looks like that

Please, don't sell yourself short. If I can do it, anybody can. It's just a matter of trial and error. I never show the "errors". Watch Dave's video on how to so double bevel inlay and practice a few and you'll get it. As for the bowl, I found the plans in one of my older magazines and decided that it looked like a fun project. It turned out to be a lot of fun and I plan to do more of them. Give it a try. If you want me to send you the plans let me know. Or, if you have the SSWC issue number 60, it's in there. Have fun.

 

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