Blade opinion

[Oldmansbike]

Everyone been talking about Pegas and Flying Dutchman blades so I thought I would give them a shot. I tried pegas no 5 modified geometry and FD reverse no 5. I like the FD a lot. They lasted longer than my Eberly blades that I  have been using. The Pegas blades I did not care for. It's like they had a mind of their own. I couldn't cut a straight line to save my soul. I tried different tension and everything I could think of. I'm cutting 1/2 plywood. In a related question has anyone ever heard of blonde wood plywood? I got this 2x4 sheet from Lowes and that's what the sticker on the back said on it. It has a lot of layers and is white in color. It's not Baltic birch. It did have some small voids in it. Thanks Dale

 

 

[Rockytime]

Blades are a personal opinion and experience. I love Pegas but saying that you have to be happy with the blades you use. If FD blades work for you keep using them. You are in good company!

[trackman]

I used FD for years then switched to pegas. I had the opposite experience of you. The FD blades I had to cut feeding into the blade at an angle due to the way they are made. After awhile didn’t have to think about it. But the Pegas blades the first time using took some getting use to due to them cutting straight, for me. 

[Hawk]

I started using FD back more years than I can remember. About 2 years ago after reading all the hub bub about Pegas I bought some. Tried them on various woods and thickness's and had the same results as you, couldn't get the Pegas to cut on the line, straight or curved. So I'm using only the FD.  Every now and ten I get a wild hair and try the Pegas, still not for me.

Chris

[Oldmansbike]

Every blade I have ever used I've had to angle the wood when cutting I never thought about holding  the wood straight to cut it. I will have to try the Pegas again and see what happens.

12 hours ago, trackman said:

I used FD for years then switched to pegas. I had the opposite experience of you. The FD blades I had to cut feeding into the blade at an angle due to the way they are made. After awhile didn’t have to think about it. But the Pegas blades the first time using took some getting use to due to them cutting straight, for me. 

 

[Bill WIlson]

Blondewood is a trade name, not a species.  I think that it represents a material that could be made from any number of light colored woods, which are low cost and often imported.  It's a utility grade product.

[Rolf]

Just keep in mind when you give us information on a blade that you are using also tell us the teeth per inch(TPI) 

Blade geometry also has a huge impact on how fast and controllable the cut is. 

I have Olson 2/0 reverse with 28 TPI, cut real slow and very easy to controll, the Pegas modified geometry 2/0 reverse only has 15.4 TPI needless to say it zips through the wood much faster. 

Practice with any new blade in your arsenal.

 

 

[WayneMahler]

One thing I have learned about blades . If it works for you and your cutting style then everyone is happy . I use FD blades, I like them and they fit my style really well. I have tried other blades and not had the success with them I thought. Like a lot of others, I have followed the discussions on the Pegas MG blades and it piqued my curiosity so I tried them.  To me I just prefer the FD. I'm am quite sure that given enough time and practice any blade could be learned and mastered. A good example would be spirals for those that don't use them a lot. I can go between spiral and flat with little problems, although this was not the case when I first started using spirals, took a while to learn them . Just like starting out scrolling, practice and patience has a huge effect on the outcome of many aspects of this hobby. Be patient, practice, learn and enjoy the experience . Of course this is just my opinion and experience through my never ending learning curve. 

[Rolf]

Well said Wayne, I started with Olson and got very comfortable with them as they were the only blades I used for several years. Tried the FD blades a couple of times as my skills improved and could not follow a line especially in the 2/0 range. Now after 16 years I can cut with pretty much any blade with some reasonable precision, but for when I need real fine detail and a gentle approach, I still go to my old comfort level Olson. 

That said I used the Pegas MGT 1R  13.7 TPI for my last Intarsia project. very small kerf and a fast cut. 

[Rockytime]

4 hours ago, Rolf said:

Just keep in mind when you give us information on a blade that you are using also tell us the teeth per inch(TPI) 

Blade geometry also has a huge impact on how fast and controllable the cut is. 

I have Olson 2/0 reverse with 28 TPI, cut real slow and very easy to controll, the Pegas modified geometry 2/0 reverse only has 15.4 TPI needless to say it zips through the wood much faster. 

Practice with any new blade in your arsenal.

 

 

Good info on tooth count. I'd not thought about it too much. I'll have to dig out the charts and check more often. I use the Pegas MG 2/0 often at very low speed and still find them prone to wander. I'll have to try the Olson blades.

[Denny Knappen]

I agree with Wayne.  Find a blade you are comfortable using.  We all have preferences.  I use both FD and Pegas and very satisfied with both brands.  Even though I sell Pegas, I would not attempt to talk someone away from a blade they are comfortable using.

Yes, TPI is important.  On Pegas MGT blades the 2/0R is 15.4.  On Pegas Skip blades 2/0 is 28.2.  When comparing brands always consider the TPI.

[kmmcrafts]

Might be just me.. but I like cutting at a faster pace.. I started with Olsen reverse tooth blades years ago.. not a bad blade as I think all blades have their purpose.. it's in my opinion more about the type of material and thickness than anything else.. I have no issues cutting with any blade as far as staying straight on the lines etc.. but I find that a blade that cuts too slow makes me want to push harder.. as I stated at the begging I like to cut at a faster pace.. Not because I'm in a hurry like people seem to think because I sell and I need to make x amount a day.. I'm still making my wage whether I cut fast or slow, LOL.. That gets charged to the customer.. typically a first time project takes longer.. and I typically use my time from the first project to make my wage off of.. and then the more times I cut it I find tip and tricks to speed things up..

So anyway, I started with Olsen blades and then heard about FD blades.. before the UR blades came out they had the two way cut.. I liked those because they was a faster cutting blade.. The Pegas tend to be a bit more aggressive so I like those.. There are certain projects where I am still more comfortable using a Olsen or FD UR blade.. I still keep them all on hand.. Been a time or two where I ordered blades a little late and had to run with FD or Olsen until I got my batch of Pegas in.. To me.. they all have their uses.. cutting really thin stock.. sometimes I'll switch to a FD or Olsen as they aren't quite as aggressive. which falls into the tooth per inch category.. it makes a difference for certain projects and each brands blades size isn't the same tooth count or kerf size etc..Pegas kerf tends to be on a smaller scale than the other brands.. 

[Gonzo]

11 hours ago, Rolf said:

 

I have Olson 2/0 reverse with 28 TPI, cut real slow and very easy to controll, 

 

 

Rolf, where do you get these blades?  I'm struggling on a piece that has numerous outside radius' of 1/32. My Pegas MG blades are just too aggressive for this application?

[ike]

Blades are of ones own choosing . I have tried them all and I keep coming back to olson's . for me dthey seem to outlast all others.FD or pages. I guess that is the reason there is so many brands.

IKE

[Rolf]

Gonzo I used to buy my Olson blades from Sloans, but they have retired.   I am not sure who to go to now for the Olson blades.  

Ike you are right, the best blade is the one you are comfortable with.

In the older days on the SSWWC forum, blade discussions were very dangerous and got very heated.  It used to be the Olson vs FD battle. Everyone swore their blade was the best.

[kmmcrafts]

11 hours ago, Gonzo said:

Rolf, where do you get these blades?  I'm struggling on a piece that has numerous outside radius' of 1/32. My Pegas MG blades are just too aggressive for this application?

 

11 minutes ago, Rolf said:

Gonzo I used to buy my Olson blades from Sloans, but they have retired.   I am not sure who to go to now for the Olson blades.  

Ike you are right, the best blade is the one you are comfortable with.

In the older days on the SSWWC forum, blade discussions were very dangerous and got very heated.  It used to be the Olson vs FD battle. Everyone swore their blade was the best.

I used to buy mine from Lesley's patterns http://www.scrollsawbladespatterns.com/index.htm But over the years their service had dropped.. Always got my order but slower than a snail.. Always enjoyed dealing with them as they took Paypal and at that time I wasn't taking credit card payments for my online sales so there was always funds in my PayPal account.. Also they sell all three ( FD, Olsen, and Pegas )  of my blade brands and it was always nice to order from one place... just worked out well.. Loved dealing with sloans too and sure will miss their wonderful service.. 

I just placed an order with wooden teddy bear on Sunday and they sent me a tracking number Monday.. supposed to be here today.. so I think they may be the next go to place for Olsen & FD blades..  https://woodenteddybear.com/collections/olson-scroll-saw-blades 

[rjweb]

Rolf, I purchase my Olson blades from woodenteddy bear, service is good, RJ 

[Rockytime]

I love Pegas MG blades! That being said I find this discussion very interesting. I like to cut lots of things like puzzles, toys and word art. I also like cutting portraits and other fretwork. I like Pegas MG blades because they are very sharp and cut quickly. However, when cutting fretwork I use 1/4" BB with a 3/16 Luan backer because #2/0 MG blades are super fast cutting. I slow the blade way down and still the blade can take off on its own quickly if I'm not careful. Cutting through 7/16" wood helps.  Greater TPI helps. I tried a Polar 2/0 TPI 30.5 and I had to get rid of the backer and increase the saw speed considerably. What a difference in control but slow going. At least I can control things. I do find that they dull quickly.

[crupiea]

I have some pegas 2/0 blades and dont care for them.  Thats the only ones I have tried. 

Flying dutchman guy all the way. 

That said, the bulk of my work is dome with jewelers blades 2/0 no reverse teeth but tons of teeth going one way. makes a mess on the back side but i dont care as its not seen. 

The good part is they are like $18 for a gross with prime shipping on amazon. 

[Rolf]

Pegas does have a 28 TPI 2/0 blade but it has no reverse teeth. Actually a very controllable blade.

[drumley]

On 5/5/2020 at 5:22 PM, Oldmansbike said:

Everyone been talking about Pegas and Flying Dutchman blades so I thought I would give them a shot. I tried pegas no 5 modified geometry and FD reverse no 5. I like the FD a lot. They lasted longer than my Eberly blades that I  have been using. The Pegas blades I did not care for. It's like they had a mind of their own. I couldn't cut a straight line to save my soul. I tried different tension and everything I could think of. I'm cutting 1/2 plywood. In a related question has anyone ever heard of blonde wood plywood? I got this 2x4 sheet from Lowes and that's what the sticker on the back said on it. It has a lot of layers and is white in color. It's not Baltic birch. It did have some small voids in it. Thanks Dale

 

 

I picked up a piece of the blond wood for a project as well. One thing you need to watch out for is that the face layers are extremely thin, I sanded through the face layer with 120 grit sandpaper during a final sanding.

[Oldmansbike]

3 hours ago, drumley said:

I picked up a piece of the blond wood for a project as well. One thing you need to watch out for is that the face layers are extremely thin, I sanded through the face layer with 120 grit sandpaper during a final sanding.

Yes I found that out too.