Rockytime Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 (edited) I've got adhesives by the number Adhesives by the score Every time I turn around I swear I find some more! Actually this is a two part question, adhesives and frame clamps. I make most of my frames from cedar fence stakes. They are very rough, often cupped, uneven thickness, etc. I like the looks of the frames because they are rustic. In spite of of problems with the materials I try to make the frames as accurately as possible. I have old Craftsman corner clamps, Pony strap clamps as well as H/F strap clamps. Of the three I like the H/F straps the best. My dilemma is the adhesive. It take a fair bit of time to get the straps positioned accurately. The adhesive needs to remain open until the straps or clamps can be tightened. There has been discussion on clamps previously but not on adhesives that I know of. Need some advice on adhesives. Currently I glue the best I can then pop some staples in the corners from the back. I also have thin, medium and gap filling ca, tube of Loctite cement, JB Weld and more. What to use? Edited June 12, 2020 by Rockytime Typo OCtoolguy and lawson56 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgman Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 (edited) Les, I use Pony strap clamp for my frames, but I think any brand strap clamps should do the job.the most important factor in frame making is making precise 45° cuts and just as important, is cutting each pair of sides exactly the same length. If one side is longer, even a fraction of an inch, the frame will not be square. As for glues that you show, I would use the Titebond, but any of the white Or yellow glues will work without any problems. I don’t bother reinforcing the corners as I glue the art piece into the frame. Edited June 12, 2020 by dgman Rockytime, OCtoolguy and John B 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollyred Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 You can make the frames by using tape at the corners to hold them together before putting on the clamps. This is a trick used in box making to hold the corners together. Lay the outside edge of one of the frame members on the sticky side of a piece of tape, with some of the tape extending out. Then put the next one against it, then tape to the rest of the frame in the same manner. Leave the last piece of tape sticking out. Put the glue on the joints and kind of roll up the frame so the joints are together. This will hold the frame together while you get the clamps on. Or just put staples in the back or nails into the joint to hold it without clamping. Hope you can make sense of this. Tom OCtoolguy, Jim Finn, Rockytime and 1 other 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 Well hell lets add one more to the collection, I prefer titebond translucent for woodworking and frames. Add saw dust where needed to fill gaps after filling with the translucent glue OCtoolguy, OzarkSawdust, Fedido and 2 others 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fedido Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 36 minutes ago, JimErn said: Well hell lets add one more to the collection, I prefer titebond translucent for woodworking and frames. Add saw dust where needed to fill gaps after filling with the translucent glue My wife gave me clear chalkboard glue since she is a teacher and I use that to mend mistakes with. Have had an error yet which requires sawdust and would like to keep it that way! Rockytime and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 Just to add. When I need increased open time for repeat positioning when making model airplanes I prefer 30 minute epoxy. LOL, I've used most of those glues. Guess I'm a collector of sorts. Rockytime and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edward Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 I mainly use Titebond 3 on all my projects haven seen the translucent glue in the stores will have to look for it and give it a try. Rockytime and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puzzleguy Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 2 hours ago, JimErn said: Well hell lets add one more to the collection, I prefer titebond translucent for woodworking and frames. Add saw dust where needed to fill gaps after filling with the translucent glue I honestly didnt know about this titebond - building some cabinet doors this morning for my daughter might be the ticket -thanks for the information ! ( will order it ) Rockytime and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimErn Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 11 minutes ago, edward said: I mainly use Titebond 3 on all my projects haven seen the translucent glue in the stores will have to look for it and give it a try. I get mine from amazon OCtoolguy and Rockytime 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldhudson Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 I guess I'll throw my 2 cents in here. Someone suggested 30 minute epoxy and for the project you described I think that is a solid suggestion. Wood glue works best when the faces meet well. If your stock is 'off' and gaps are created IMHO epoxy will fill gaps and hold better that poly glues. And the nice thing is they can be tinted to match your stock. Then the clamping. I like band clamps and use one but for difficult work I use this crazy system. I've made these little corner jigs. The bottom (the part that comes in contact with your frame) has 100g sand paper attached with DST. Prevents slippage in clamping. Just look at the pic. The jigs are clamped to the frame members first and then a F style clamp pulls the corner together. This lets you focus on each joint individually. I usually just clamp half the project, let the glue set up and then do the other corners. OzarkSawdust and Rockytime 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 I've used a lot of different glues to glue the clock to the base.. and one day while shopping at Menards I ran across the tite bond translucent glue.. I've been using it exclusively for a couple years now and really like it.. That said.. I've never had any issues with any other wood glues in the past.. I've used a lot of different name brands.. Rockytime and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Finn Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 I make small boxes of cedar or ash. I cut the corners of the four sides on my miter saw and apply white Elmer's glue and hold them together with rubber bands. It sets up fast though. On larger projects, I still use Elmer's white glue and tape the corners together before applying clamps. This glue dries clear . OzarkSawdust, kmmcrafts, OCtoolguy and 1 other 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted June 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 7 hours ago, oldhudson said: I guess I'll throw my 2 cents in here. Someone suggested 30 minute epoxy and for the project you described I think that is a solid suggestion. Wood glue works best when the faces meet well. If your stock is 'off' and gaps are created IMHO epoxy will fill gaps and hold better that poly glues. And the nice thing is they can be tinted to match your stock. Then the clamping. I like band clamps and use one but for difficult work I use this crazy system. I've made these little corner jigs. The bottom (the part that comes in contact with your frame) has 100g sand paper attached with DST. Prevents slippage in clamping. Just look at the pic. The jigs are clamped to the frame members first and then a F style clamp pulls the corner together. This lets you focus on each joint individually. I usually just clamp half the project, let the glue set up and then do the other corners. Good looking clamping system you use. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 I use the HF strap clamp like you use. I use TiteBond 2 glue. Have you ever looked at rush cedar? It would be more consistent than thickness. Rockytime and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted June 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 51 minutes ago, Dave Monk said: I use the HF strap clamp like you use. I use TiteBond 2 glue. Have you ever looked at rush cedar? It would be more consistent than thickness. What is tush cedar? I'm not familiar with it. OCtoolguy and OzarkSawdust 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 Les, I use PVA, almost any marked "for wood". Selly's or Parfix Almost all PVA glues are stronger than the timber. Butt joints or end grain can be a problem, but only in where stress is involved. When making frames I usually just staple across the joint on the back and then clamp down flat to a board. If mitres are cut correctly this will give a serviceable and sufficient bond. Sometimes I will use a feather across the cnr, more for decoration, but it adds strength. OCtoolguy and Rockytime 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 6 hours ago, John B said: Butt joints or end grain can be a problem, but only in where stress is involved. About 4 minutes into the video Nick Engler talks about gluing end grain to end grain in a butt joint. I have done this using this method, and I can't break them apart. I suppose I could clamp one end in a vise and beat it with a 4lb hammer or use a pry bar on it, but I don't see the point. An old retired Army guy mentioned this to me several years ago, and I kept meaning to try it but never did until recently. https://youtu.be/Wmw5rayNIV4 Rockytime and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Monk Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 10 hours ago, Rockytime said: What is tush cedar? I'm not familiar with it. Sorry! Brain fart! Rough cedar....Most big box stores have it. I think the thickness is pretty consistent. OCtoolguy and OzarkSawdust 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted June 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 9 hours ago, BadBob said: About 4 minutes into the video Nick Engler talks about gluing end grain to end grain in a butt joint. I have done this using this method, and I can't break them apart. I suppose I could clamp one end in a vise and beat it with a 4lb hammer or use a pry bar on it, but I don't see the point. An old retired Army guy mentioned this to me several years ago, and I kept meaning to try it but never did until recently. https://youtu.be/Wmw5rayNIV4 Great video. Thanks. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fedido Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 On 6/12/2020 at 8:19 AM, Fedido said: My wife gave me clear chalkboard glue since she is a teacher and I use that to mend mistakes with. Have had an error yet which requires sawdust and would like to keep it that way! After I typed this, I went out to cut and what did I do? You guessed it. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 18 hours ago, BadBob said: About 4 minutes into the video Nick Engler talks about gluing end grain to end grain in a butt joint. I have done this using this method, and I can't break them apart. I suppose I could clamp one end in a vise and beat it with a 4lb hammer or use a pry bar on it, but I don't see the point. An old retired Army guy mentioned this to me several years ago, and I kept meaning to try it but never did until recently. https://youtu.be/Wmw5rayNIV4 I have used this technique, on frames eg mitres, but would never use it on furniture without a physical support, such as a joint, dowels etc. OCtoolguy and jollyred 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkSawdust Posted June 14, 2020 Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 I've never had a problem gluing a frame corner. I can never get the cuts to match up square and tight...so it never gets glued! There's a pile of pieces in the scrap wood pile...LOL John B and OCtoolguy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted June 15, 2020 Report Share Posted June 15, 2020 When making frames accuracy counts. This applies to the angle and the lengths. Wood glue is not designed to fill gaps so the tighter the corners the better. I stack cut my pieces on the miter saw so they are exactly the same size. For clamping I use a Merel clamp. I also use "V" nails in addition to the wood glue. The beauty of using both "V" nail and glue is I can make multiple frames quickly. The process is: 1. cut the pieces 2. apply glue 3. clamp 4. drive in the "V" nails (two per corner) 5. immediately after driving the "V" nails remove from clamp and go on to the next frame. John B, OCtoolguy and kmmcrafts 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockytime Posted June 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 What is a V nail? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC Scroller Posted June 16, 2020 Report Share Posted June 16, 2020 1 hour ago, Rockytime said: What is a V nail? https://www.rockler.com/ezy-framer-v-nail-installation-tool Rockytime 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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