OzarkSawdust Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 After returning from the winter on the border, I haven't done much cutting, just a few orders. With this COVID mess all the craft shows I was going to do this spring and summer are shut down...bummer! So I decided it's about time to get started making stock for the winter shows. I've noticed a vibration that wasn't there last winter. I checked over the saw, all the nuts and bolts feel tight. Doesn't look like anything bent. I'm careful transporting it and pack it in it's original box. I checked the table to blade alignment...exactly 90*. When I cut a puzzle the pieces slide through from top or bottom, so I know the alignment is good. I've tried different blades, Pegas #3 & 5 that have been very smooth in the past. Not sure what difference in feel it would make, but I've moved the motor adjustment center...forward...and back. I have the Pegas blade clamps that are normally smooth. I have only one idea/theory. When I set up the winter shop it has a nice wood floor, so I got a ribbed mat large enough to set the saw on to protect the floor. I also bolted the saw to the stand top, and the stand top to the stand. Here at home I had just stacked the three items. So...here at home I have saw bolted to stand top, bolted to stand, sitting on concrete floor. I'm wondering if I need to get a rubber mat to put under the stand, or mount between the saw and the stand top? If so would it make any difference which? OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 Try loosening the bolts to the stand and let the legs settle in the spot you plan to park it at.. Assuming it's a factory stand or metal bolted together stand similar to the factory style.. My EX-21 and Hawk saws sometimes will get bumped and moved slightly because the shop radio is on a shelf behind the saw.. and it can be a tight fit to get to the power switch on the radio.. If the saw gets bumped and move ever so slightly it'll pick up some vibration.. I sort of kick out the legs to somewhat get it to it's resting spot.. Anytime I move a saw in the shop I either have to bump it around to find it's sweet spot where the legs set firmly on the floor or loosen the stand to get it perfect again.. I have a concrete floor that is very smooth and level unless you get to the very edge.. next to the wall.. and that is where all my saws sit.. back legs get in the edge of the floor.. Kids got me a Blue Tooth speaker for fathers day.. now I don't need to get back to the wall and shelf to access the radio that barely works.. I can change the volume etc from my phone to this little speaker they got me. Little tiny thing with some big stereo system sound.. They also got me some blue tooth headphones.. guess they're telling me they don't want to hear me on YouTube while they're watching TV, LOL OCtoolguy and OzarkSawdust 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCtoolguy Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 It has also been mentioned here that folks have taken a bag of premix concrete and set it on a shelf under the saw so that it adds that extra 75-100 pounds of weight pushing down. So far, I've not had to go that far. I did put down the rubber matts that H/F sells. I bought 4 pkgs of the 4 piece stuff and did my whole shop. My saws sit on that matting and sort of impress it to the point where they don't move a bit. OzarkSawdust and John B 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OzarkSawdust Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 44 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said: Try loosening the bolts to the stand and let the legs settle in the spot you plan to park it at.. Assuming it's a factory stand or metal bolted together stand similar to the factory style.. My EX-21 and Hawk saws sometimes will get bumped and moved slightly because the shop radio is on a shelf behind the saw.. and it can be a tight fit to get to the power switch on the radio.. If the saw gets bumped and move ever so slightly it'll pick up some vibration.. I sort of kick out the legs to somewhat get it to it's resting spot.. Anytime I move a saw in the shop I either have to bump it around to find it's sweet spot where the legs set firmly on the floor or loosen the stand to get it perfect again.. I have a concrete floor that is very smooth and level unless you get to the very edge.. next to the wall.. and that is where all my saws sit.. back legs get in the edge of the floor.. Kids got me a Blue Tooth speaker for fathers day.. now I don't need to get back to the wall and shelf to access the radio that barely works.. I can change the volume etc from my phone to this little speaker they got me. Little tiny thing with some big stereo system sound.. They also got me some blue tooth headphones.. guess they're telling me they don't want to hear me on YouTube while they're watching TV, LOL Kevin it sounds crazy...at first, but I did pull the saw out about a foot yesterday and push it back. My saw sits between two benches I built. The one on the right is lower than saw table, it's for fly and jig tying. The one on the left is higher than the saw table. It's my general work bench at 36". When I lay out several animal puzzles on a poplar board I need to pull out the saw to cut them apart to a manageable size, then push it back in place. At the winter shop on the border I only had a folding table, it is lower than saw table, so I never moved it till I packed it in the 5th wheel to head north. You'll love the Blue Tooth! I have a Bose Blue Tooth that I've had for years , upper left corner of photo, it's great to control volume and play list/etc from phone right beside me. Also my new window A/C! Just put it in a couple of days ago. Only 6,000 BTUs, but it's the largest I could get in the window...lol. With the spray foam insulation it really helps though. OCtoolguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmmcrafts Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 I tried the foam things from Harbor Freight on my saw and it made more vibration than I had.. Years ago I had a Dremel model 1800 scroll saw and it vibrated bad.. even mounted to the stand.. I put a piece of the carpet foam between the saw and the stand.. then run the saw through the speeds as i tighten the bolts to the stand.. and got it running pretty smooth.. If I cranked the bolts tight it was bad.. and too loose it was bad.. so I just kept running at speeds while tightening the bolts and found the sweet spot.. Took quite some time to do but was a really smooth saw afterwards.. That was before I had my new shop with a nicely laid concrete floor.. OzarkSawdust and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Be_O_Be Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 https://www.grainger.com/product/AIRLOC-Vibration-Isolation-Pad-3ECL3? These might help. I used these to replace the rubber feet that failed on an older delta. Like Kevin stated I had to zero in on how tight the bolts were to reduce the vibration, also used aviation nuts so they would stay in place. OzarkSawdust 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyoz Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Gday I dont bolt down the table or saw on one corner, gives it that bit of freedom from vibration, some one told me that when I had vibration issues, removing those bolts did the trick OzarkSawdust 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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