Stack cutting help

[Wichman]

Three things to add.

1. Try skip tooth blades, they tend to clear the sawdust from a deep cut better, also try backing off the cut every few seconds to let the sawdust clear the cut.

2. I find that a stiff blade really helps with the breaking of small details. I am currently using FD polar blades, #3.

3. Strategize how you cut. Visualize where you will be putting pressure on the cut,  use this to determine the sequence of cuts. (say you are cutting a stem with thorns; when cutting the thorns, begin the cuts at the point of the thorn working towards the stem.)

[OzarkSawdust]

On 7/18/2020 at 8:27 AM, Rolf said:

I have never seen a hold down foot that does more than get in the way. If you have it so snug on the wood to keep the layers together it creates real drag and you risk breaking off the delicate bits on fretwork.  The foot can help new scrollers until they get used to cutting as it helps with that terrifying moment when the wood starts hopping up and down scaring the stuff out of us, I love doing that at presentation, it really gets peoples attention. LOL. yes I can be mean.

I had a foot on my WEN the first few weeks...hated it. So when I got my new King it came off when I first set it up...don't know where it is, and don't care 

Yea, when a piece of 1x  poplar starts hopping and smacking the table, some times with a finger in it, it does get your attention!!  since you mentioned it, I'll ask. What causes that to happen? I never really thought about it, just figured I turned the piece too tight, or blade getting dull, mostly the fact my finger got smacked...LOL. Mostly happens when I'm thinking about other things while cutting 

[Roberta Moreton]

On 7/17/2020 at 9:33 AM, OzarkSawdust said:

I'm having the problem with a John Wayne portrait I'm working on. I'll see if there are any areas I can stick a couple of brads in  when I finish my coffee. If not I'll try that on the next one.  I may also try the hot melt instead of blue tape on the next one.

I've been doing hardwood or one off ply but want to start making copies of stuff to sell this winter. Making 3-4 at a time beats the heck out of making singles! That gets me to thinking...very dangerous...do any of you stack cut something like 1/8" or 1/4" hard Maple or Walnut? If so is there any difference in the procedure between that and 1/8" or 1/4" BB ply?

Great ideas guys! Thanks!

When cutting portraits, or any fine fretwork, I start in the center and replace and tape any large pieces of fallout.  It helps. 

[Roberta Moreton]

24 minutes ago, OzarkSawdust said:

I had a foot on my WEN the first few weeks...hated it. So when I got my new King it came off when I first set it up...don't know where it is, and don't care 

Yea, when a piece of 1x  poplar starts hopping and smacking the table, some times with a finger in it, it does get your attention!!  since you mentioned it, I'll ask. What causes that to happen? I never really thought about it, just figured I turned the piece too tight, or blade getting dull, mostly the fact my finger got smacked...LOL. Mostly happens when I'm thinking about other things while cutting 

Don’t forget that you need light pressure holding your wood down. That is one thing that foot does. 

[Rolf]

26 minutes ago, OzarkSawdust said:

 

 I'll ask. What causes that to happen? I never really thought about it, just figured I turned the piece too tight, or blade getting dull, mostly the fact my finger got smacked...LOL. Mostly happens when I'm thinking about other things while cutting 

You are correct! It mostly happens when we turn the wood too fast and the blade binds. Also some woods have some sticky pitch pockets, Cherry is one, that can also cause issues. 

Beginners need to get a feel for the saw and the blades. Also how the different woods cut. 

[Dragonkort]

i glanced through all the messages and didnt see anyone doing it this way....if i did miss it im sorry.  I do a lot of stack cutting to the way i do it is i take my glue gun and run a long bead on top of the wood  all the way around you have to work fast as it dries fast...then i run a bead or two all along the sides...you have to  make sure you are glueing all the levels....that usuly works for me....when i cant trace the pattern onto the wood after glueing i wrap masking tape around the wood then glue the pattern  onto the masking tape then use clear packing tape to wrap around everything else....

[Rolf]

Dragonkort, I tried all of the different methods that have been discussed here. Double sided sticky tape,  (3m -ATG a very useful tool), hot glue, on the edges, blue tape on the edges, etc.

All work to some degree but if you are going to do a lot of it they get to be problematic and time consuming. We all find a method that works for us.

 

[OCtoolguy]

On 7/17/2020 at 6:33 AM, OzarkSawdust said:

I'm having the problem with a John Wayne portrait I'm working on. I'll see if there are any areas I can stick a couple of brads in  when I finish my coffee. If not I'll try that on the next one.  I may also try the hot melt instead of blue tape on the next one.

I've been doing hardwood or one off ply but want to start making copies of stuff to sell this winter. Making 3-4 at a time beats the heck out of making singles! That gets me to thinking...very dangerous...do any of you stack cut something like 1/8" or 1/4" hard Maple or Walnut? If so is there any difference in the procedure between that and 1/8" or 1/4" BB ply?

Great ideas guys! Thanks!

I've stack cut 4 layers 1/4" oak and poplar with no problem. I think your biggest problem might be slightly warped wood leaving a gap in the middle. Try arranging your layers so they are as flat as possible.